Tremclad Paint Job Begins...

[Mark M]

Inspired by information posted in other threads, I have begun to wade into painting my 82 1100E with foam rollers and Tremclad rust paint. The initial thread I posted for information is here:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=132088&highlight=mark

I have cleaned up my side panels and front fender and sprayed one light coat of semi gloss black on the inside surfaces. No pics yet, there is really nothing much to show at the moment. I will let the black cure overnight, then put one more light coat on tomorrow night. After that is cured, I will be scuffing the outside surfaces and rolling the first coat of white on.

The final colors will be a base of white with red for trim. Wheels will be black in the center of the star and polished on the rim.

I have one side panel with all 3 tabs broken off and I will be experimenting with heavy duty velcro for mounting. The other panel has one broken off and I will also use velcro to replace that one tab.

Here are a couple of shots as it sat when I bought it. It has been slightly modified since then, but not cosmetically:





Mark

[OhioEric]

So, since it's winter and you are in Canada, i have to ask a question. tremclad/ rustoleum is solvent based...how will you deal with the fumes?
Respirator? and what kind of heat?

( i sprayed a part once in the basement in the winter. huge mistake...stunk up the house for days, my wife was pi$$ed.)


...best of luck, i hope it looks factory.

[Mark M]

So, since it's winter and you are in Canada, i have to ask a question. tremclad/ rustoleum is solvent based...how will you deal with the fumes?
Respirator? and what kind of heat?

( i sprayed a part once in the basement in the winter. huge mistake...stunk up the house for days, my wife was pi$$ed.)


...best of luck, i hope it looks factory.

I sprayed the black (rattle can, that is) in the garage last night. I had the parts and the spray bomb in the house to keep them warm, took them out one at a time to paint, then let them sit for a couple of hours in the garage. Then I brought them inside to cure overnight in the basement. Hardly any smell at all in the house, since most of it flashed off in the garage.

Supposedly, using a roller is a lot less stinky than spraying and can be done inside with no problems. We will see. If it is too bad for the basement, I will be painting in the garage and then bringing it in after like I did last night. I have a propane heater I can use to warm up the garage before painting once it gets cold outside (which it was this morning, winter has landed). Because I am using a roller, I should be able to keep heat on without worry of blowing the place up, unlike spraying.

I will keep this thread updated as I go. One more coat of black on the fender and I will be ready to scuff the painted surfaces and try the roller out. Hopefully this weekend I will get some time on it and have some pics to share.

I have no wife to get ****ed, but I have no desire to be high off paint fumes while it cures. If I want to alter my reality, I prefer a good scotch and a cigar...

Thanks for the support, I hope it turns out factory, too.

Mark

[spyug]

I can't help but think this is a time consuming and fiddly project that may or may not produce satisfactory results.

I started painting my bikes 5 years back when I first got into it and I think I've developed a fairly easy and relatively cheap procedure giving decent results.

For best and cheapest results I use spray bombs for my base coats and top off with automotive 2 part urethane clear ( the only stuff impervious to gas).

My 83, 750 is the same body shape and size as yours I believe and I was able to colour change from Burgundy to black with 2 bombs of Crappy Tire housebrand enamel and about 4 ounces of clear. All for about $13 in paint.

Now to pull this off you will need access to a compressor and HVLP paint gun but these are getting cheap enough that you can get a workable rig for around $100 or less. The small 3 Gallon electric pump compressors (Job mate from C-Tire) work fine and all you need is a small touch up type spray gun ( Princess Auto and those types of stores carry lots of cheapies). The most expensive part of the project is the initial purchase of clearcoat (available from your local auto paint supplier) as it runs around $50 for the paint (usually sold by the quart) and hardner and maybe another $30 for solvent/cleaner. You might manage to get it a bit cheaper if they sell by the pint. You will have lots leftover for the next project so its not a total loss. I have a pint or so left that I've had now for 3 years, still works fine.

One big note of caution: when spraying anything chemical make sure you get a good quality face mask with approved filters. Paper masks will not do. Again, a good mask is a valuable tool to have and if kept clean and stored will last years. Always think of your health.

Spraying at this time of year can be a problem but I've done it in my un-heated garage in the middle of January. The trick is to keep the part & Paint warm until ready to paint, paint then apply heat lamps. The halogen spot lamps you can pick up these days fairly cheaply at Crappy Tire or the building centers work well for this.

It may sound more work than the other method but its not really. With all painting its the prep work that's important for a good finish and the cleanup that takes the work I find.

Just thought I'd mention it.

Good luck with your projects.
Spyug

[knotzilla]

I asume you guys in the states get paint fumes too. I used duplicolour automotive clearcoat on my paint job and gasoline does not affect it. Ted

[Mark M]

It may sound more work than the other method but its not really. With all painting its the prep work that's important for a good finish and the cleanup that takes the work I find.

I think this is more a horses for courses kind of thing. I actually have an HVLP set and a fair sized compressor, but my garage is full and not suitable for spraying in. It would take a major effort to change that and I am not really excited about it at this point. I liked the look of the Tremclad method and wanted to try it. It is pretty cheap, too. It cost me something like $35 for all the paint, including a quart of primer I may not need.

As you note, it is the prep and clean up that is a PITA more than anything and that doesn't change no matter what painting method is used. I figure I will try the roller method and post the results and it gives the people with no access to spray equipment another alternative to look at.

If it all falls apart I have a buddy who is an AME and paints planes for a living. He can do a proper 2 part urethane job for me, but I wanted to try my hand at it first. I figure it's a long winter, I might as well be busy...

Mark

[knotzilla]

Wet sand the paint job using 600 then 1500 grit paper. Then buff with mothers glazing. Then paint with clear coat, Ted

[stain]

After doing a lot of reading on this "roll your own paint job " methood, I did a test panel in black using only a roller. I tried black because if you can get black right then other colors are much easier. No smell, easy clean, paint panel by panel and best of all VERY cheap. The results were very good with the polishing step the key. Even the bodymen in my garage at work were impressed. All naysayers should hold judgement until they see results. To those of you like me who are spray paint challenged this method is great, and I can do it in my basement!

[rustybronco]

For best and cheapest results I use spray bombs for my base coats and top off with automotive 2 part urethane clear ( the only stuff impervious to gas).

One big note of caution: when spraying anything chemical make sure you get a good quality face mask with approved filters. Paper masks will not do. Again, a good mask is a valuable tool to have and if kept clean and stored will last years. Always think of your health.

The cartridges on the mask are only good for about 8 hours exposure time.
keep the bag sealed between uses.

Duplicolor self etching primer (green) is very good stuff for bare metal, followed up with your favorite primer... (mine is 2 part urethane)

[Nessism]

My understanding it that the “good” two pack urethane paints have isocyanides in them, which will pass though a charcoal mask. If one wants to properly protect themselves when using this kind of paint, a fresh air mask and full body coverall is required. That said I’ve sprayed that kind of paint many times using a charcoal mask with lots of venting in the spray area. Maybe I’ll die an early death but so far, no ill effects. My procedure entails spraying one side of a part while holding my breath for the most part, and then stepping back if a fog starts to form. As long as you are not sticking your head down into the fog, I think the risk is not overly serious.

Regarding using Tremclad/Rustolium, Duplicolor, and every other kind of rattle can paint, my experience is that that those paints are not even close to being in the same class as a two pack urethane. Don’t take me wrong, I use Rustolium all the time but feel it’s better suited for an inner fender panel, or lower triple clamp, than something that you will see all the time and is subject to scratching and chemical exposure. These kinds of paint should survive brief exposure to gasoline, such as a filling station spill, but if you have a weepy gas cap good luck – paint is almost certain to fail.

One paint type I intend to sample soon is the Por-15 products. These paints are very chemical resistant so they should work great for things like brake calipers, master cylinders, engines, and anything else that gets chemical exposure. I've played around with the tank sealer paint and my understanding is that their regular Por paints are very similar. Recently saw that Por-15 has a clear coat that can tolerate high temperature; this stuff sounds ideal for engine covers after polishing. These products are not cheap, but not any more than most good automotive paints. Not sure what they will do to the inside of a spray gun though; use one of those Harbor Freight cheepies maybe and save your nice Sata or DeVilbuss for spraying clear coat.

[Mark M]

After doing a lot of reading on this "roll your own paint job " methood, I did a test panel in black using only a roller.

Any pics?

Mark

[Mark M]

Here is a shot of the side panels before I started. The bike is maroon, while the side panels are red and the one with the blue E has been repainted to red somewhere in the past. The one with the black E is OEM and had the decal under the clear. As you can see, the repainted one has some scars from a past life. I will be filling these with glazing putty and moving on.




Mark

[Mark M]

My days work, two light coats of semi gloss Tremclad black from a spray bomb on the inner surfaces. The two light coats covered quite well and have dried to a hard finish, instead of the gummy stuff you get with a heavy coat. I will let them cure overnight and then start off scuffing with 400 grit wet before I roll the first coat of white. Hopefully tomorrow night I will have some white pieces to show.



Edit - you can see the paint peeling off the fender in this shot. The tank is in similar shape and the tail piece is faded to an ugly looking brown. If the first pics I posted looked OK and you were wondering why I was bothering, this should explain it...

Mark

[rustybronco]

My understanding it that the “good” two pack urethane paints have isocyanides in them, which will pass though a charcoal mask. If one wants to properly protect themselves when using this kind of paint, a fresh air mask and full body coverall is required. That said I’ve sprayed that kind of paint many times using a charcoal mask with lots of venting in the spray area. Maybe I’ll die an early death but so far, no ill effects. My procedure entails spraying one side of a part while holding my breath for the most part, and then stepping back if a fog starts to form. As long as you are not sticking your head down into the fog, I think the risk is not overly serious.

the isocyanides in 2K urethanes also will be absorbed through the skin, eyes and so on. some kind of a full suit protection made out of a impervious material like Tyvek or plastic MUST be used when spraying them. this includes gloves and eye gogles also!
as Nessism said, good ventilation is required!

and those spray bomb paints aren't anything to sneeze at ether.

Recently saw that Por-15 has a clear coat that can tolerate high temperature; this stuff sounds ideal for engine covers after polishing.

I will have to get some and try it out.

[Nessism]

Checked the Por-15 website and I was mistaken about the clear, the high temp stuff is for wood. Nothing appropriate for engine cases.