prepping a tank for paint

[motoCYCHO]

.... I'm assuming that this is the stuff motoCYCHO using in Approach #1....

...motoCYCHO Also mentioned using Expoy to fill around the area.

posplayr,

For the record I do not recommend these methods. I was simply referring to them because they where proposed earlier in the thread as possible solutions.

The only method I believe is sound requires removal of the tabs, regardless of what filler you use to fill the void that is left after. Fortunately, the sides of the tank are not stress members of the machine and even the most average mechanical adhesion of Bondo or similar product will suffice. You can mess with fiberglass and carbon fiber and aerospace epoxy if you like, but it just is not necessary.

if im going to go thru all of that, i mind as well just mig the slots and then ill have metal there instead of epoxy/bondo. repainting after 2-3 years doesnt sound too bad. likely, ill want a color change of the tins by that time anyway.

Actually, aside from the possible burn through as you mig welded the side of your sealed, soft steel tank, that's not a bad idea at all. Well that and you will still have to grind away the pile of steel you create. For the effort of grinding you could have spent half the time grinding away the spot welds just enough to remove the tabs gently.. and as long as you don't get carried away like I did (see previous post in this thread for pic), you will avoid having to weld on a fuel tank. Mix a little dough and you are good to go.

Here is an example of one done this way with rattle can flat black paint. Bike is gone now and I certainly do not miss it.

Up close of tank:

Some real two-part primer on high build and some wet sanding and this tank would have been ready for real paint in an afternoon.

[PAULYBOY]

See how anal we are?

So, having built a couple of glass encapsulated wooden boats, using fiberglass cloth and 2 part epoxy, if I was gonna do this, I'd make a patch large enough to cover the side of the tank, after having filled and smoothed the areas with a good plastic filler. Then I'd smooth the tight weave, finish type, high thread count cloth over with enough epoxy to leave it really smooth, sand, prime, sand, coat with basecoat, sand, coat again, color sand, clear, sand, buff, polish, you're done. Lotta work huh? As you said, it's a beater bike and I'd stop where youre at, seeing as how you're not bothered by repaint in 2 or 3 years, if you still have the bike.

[jed.only]

posplayr,

For the record I do not recommend these methods. I was simply referring to them because they where proposed earlier in the thread as possible solutions.

The only method I believe is sound requires removal of the tabs, regardless of what filler you use to fill the void that is left after. Fortunately, the sides of the tank are not stress members of the machine and even the most average mechanical adhesion of Bondo or similar product will suffice. You can mess with fiberglass and carbon fiber and aerospace epoxy if you like, but it just is not necessary.



Actually, aside from the possible burn through as you mig welded the side of your sealed, soft steel tank, that's not a bad idea at all. Well that and you will still have to grind away the pile of steel you create. For the effort of grinding you could have spent half the time grinding away the spot welds just enough to remove the tabs gently.. and as long as you don't get carried away like I did (see previous post in this thread for pic), you will avoid having to weld on a fuel tank. Mix a little dough and you are good to go.

Here is an example of one done this way with rattle can flat black paint. Bike is gone now and I certainly do not miss it.

Up close of tank:

Some real two-part primer on high build and some wet sanding and this tank would have been ready for real paint in an afternoon.

which method was employed here?

[motoCYCHO]

which method was employed here?

My fault for not being clear I guess? The method I use is:

Method 4) Approved (by me) and known to work. Grind away at the spot welds, remove tabs gently, trying very hard not to tear away the metal and leave holes in tank, remove the rust that is going to be under the tabs in most cases and then fill with your favorite polyester filler (a.k.a. Bondo or similar). Which, with no rust and air pockets will properly adhere to the metal and if done correctly, last as long as the paint job you put over it.

This is how I will be doing the GS1100ET tank I am working on now.... after I weld closed the hole I made because I went a little deep with the Dremel. I will post pics and stuff of that process too.. so if you have a MIG welder don't worry too much about holes.. avoid them as much as possible.. but a hole doesn't make it scrap metal.

[jed.only]

very nice, sir.

[oshanac]

motoCYCHO-
Thank you so very much for the pictorial! It is thorough, well explained, and a great reference. Though I want to ADD badges (may have to adhesive back them) and my holes came filled in on the bike when I got it; I know this takes time to write up and post pics and I appreciate it for us GS Fanatics!

[briyenkieth]

at the paint shop the other day I saw something new to me and not mentioned yet. Bondo with metal mixed in. Haven't used it but it got my attention since the label read metal. What about good old j.b.weld? At least it could be used to fill the hole up enuff that bondo could be used. Just a thought

[jed.only]

at the paint shop the other day I saw something new to me and not mentioned yet. Bondo with metal mixed in. Haven't used it but it got my attention since the label read metal. What about good old j.b.weld? At least it could be used to fill the hole up enuff that bondo could be used. Just a thought

on that note, at the ole Wally World lastnight i saw Liquid Nails for metal as well as the Bondo for metal. i may have seen something else like an epoxy for metal, but the name escapes me.

[doctorgonzo]

motoCYCHO-
Thank you so very much for the pictorial! It is thorough, well explained, and a great reference. Though I want to ADD badges (may have to adhesive back them) and my holes came filled in on the bike when I got it; I know this takes time to write up and post pics and I appreciate it for us GS Fanatics!

Same here. I wanted the tank badges and the mounts had previously been bondoed over. I applied with 3M double side tape.