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    #16
    Originally posted by DrImodium View Post
    What product did you use for the gold and how did you do you layer the paint ?
    It's also Rustoleum. I used it sparingly knowing that it wouldn't have the same attibutes as the engine paint. I waited a couple of days with that gold on it before I sprayed the clear. I think it gave it sufficient time to cure.

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      #17
      Good job. One of these days, I'm going to try that.
      1983 GS 1100 Guided Laser
      1983 GS 1100 G
      2000 Suzuki Intruder 1500, "Piggy Sue"
      2000 GSF 1200 Bandit (totaled in deer strike)
      1986 Suzuki Cavalcade GV 1400 LX (SOLD)

      I find working on my motorcycle mildly therapeutic when I'm not cursing.

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        #18
        Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
        Did you use a sponge for the other colors?
        I thought his cat walked on it......
        82 1100 EZ (red)

        "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

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          #19
          I tested clear engine paint with gasoline and it didn't wash off. I subjected a painted part to a gasoline bath for about 3 hours and all that happened was it discolored it a bit. I'd say the engine clear is about as gas resistant as you need, but it's not as clear as real 2 part paints. It doesn't seem to buff up as nice.
          1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
          1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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            #20
            Nice work! How did you mask off the curved lines so smooth, like around the fuel filler hole and rear of the tank?

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              #21
              Originally posted by cableguy View Post
              Nice work! How did you mask off the curved lines so smooth, like around the fuel filler hole and rear of the tank?
              I used a 1/8 inch pinstriping and followed around a pattern that I had drawn out of poster-board. Next I used masking tape around the pinstripe, and then peeled the pinstripe off. I prepped the open area by sanding a little, and then I sprayed the gold.

              I got the paint and pinstriping at AutoZone. The pinstriping was like, five bucks; not bad.

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                #22
                When I do any paint with lines for differing colors , I paint the main color, then do all of my masking. After that, I will spray over the masking with the main color again to seal the tape. Let dry, then shot the secondary color. This way, any tape bleed is the same color as what you taped . A little wet sanding will Smooth out any ridges at the paint line .

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                  #23
                  Now this, is very useful information. Thank you very much.
                  *S*
                  S.

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                    #24
                    Don't forget to wet sand and clean before you mask it.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by keman View Post
                      When I do any paint with lines for differing colors , I paint the main color, then do all of my masking. After that, I will spray over the masking with the main color again to seal the tape. Let dry, then shot the secondary color. This way, any tape bleed is the same color as what you taped . A little wet sanding will Smooth out any ridges at the paint line .
                      Do you ever have any trouble with wet sanding away the nice clean edge? I've been wondering about this lately. I'd like to put a different color over just the side sections of the tank, but I don't want to end up with a ridge. Thanks.
                      Current Bikes:
                      2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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                        #26
                        I wet-sanded the crap out of my tank-finished it with 2,000 grit, but I'm like ddaniels and I'm afraid of making a mess of the pinstripe edge, so I didn't touch it after. There's a ridge there. I'm just pretending there's not.

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                          #27
                          I got the spray can a couple of days ago. I'm going to wait for a relatively warm day, and then spray it. I've got to wait a little more for the paint to cure anyway, so it's not that big of a deal.

                          This paint-job's been dragging on. I suppose I could've left it with the acrylic enamel on the surface, but I spent a lot of time on the stupid thing already and I want it to last. A little more time won't hurt too much, I guess.

                          I got a used leather jacket on e-bay about three weeks ago. I took it down to the dry-cleaners to have it cleaned. I figure that as I'm finishing the paint-job, I'd have the leather back to me. Shoot, I turned it in two days before Thanksgiving, and I'm supposed to get it back on December 6. I don't ever use the dry-cleaners, so I'm not familiar with the time frames for a cleaning. Does it really take that long? It doesn't seem to matter, because I will get the jacket back about the time the paint is ready anyway (except that'll take a while to cure too), but it seems like a LONG time.

                          On that same note, I have a leather riding jacket now! It's pretty cold up here, so it will be needed. It's in freaking great shape-like new. I guess that the person who sold it to me just used it a couple of times. I got it for 60 bucks, booya! I looked up the new price and it's $160.
                          Last edited by Guest; 12-04-2011, 02:50 PM. Reason: took, not take

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                            #28
                            Note, if you are using lacquer , you can use clear to seal the tape lines too. I use lacquer whenever I can because the solvents in the paint will soften lines and ridges a little better than enamels.

                            I sand a little more where I know I will be tapping. This way the base coats are thinner at the paint line before the ridge develops. Then I shot the tape seal ( clear, or the same color as under the tape to reduce bleed) very light, just enough to seal the line.

                            Then when shooting the next color over, I keep away from the tape line as much as I can till my final shot of that color.

                            Then comes the part I hate, time! ... wet sand the whole thing, be gentle at the line /ridge. Wait till the paint cures, then buff. Done well, the ridge blends so well into the line as to not exist. Clean, wet sand with 2000, clean, shoot your clearcoats ...


                            When wet sanding the line, go with the line, not across the line. Be gentle, lots of light so you can see the work, keep it wet.
                            Last edited by Guest; 12-04-2011, 02:40 PM.

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                              #29
                              Nice looking paint job. I like the detail! I am getting ready to repaint my bike with interlux Brightside marine paint. Its a one part topside paint. The car guys love it and it seems to hold up well to fuel/staining and UV rays. I'll post so pictures of the process when i'm done.

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