Fixing my broken... Tabs.

[Bonehead]

Now, I have researched this prior to asking these questions. Just didn't see any threads on these specific tabs, and wanted to bounce my ideas off some of you

3/4 mounting points on my rear plastic are broken off. 1/4 are cracked, but still attached. I was wondering if I could simply make a mold out of (haven't exactly finished what I would make it out of ) something and just slurry that molded piece back on? I would have to put something in the mold so it wouldn't stick as well so I'll have to think on that part too. Would it be easier to use the old rubber (damper pieces i like to call them) as a template and just form around that? then once its set simply cut the rubber out of the molded ABS.

In short
-Can I create a mold then just slurry the molded piece back on?
-Can I use the damper pieces as a template?
-Should I just create a flat surface of ABS and then drill a hole for the damper pieces to fit? (This would probably be easiest)
-Are there any alternatives to these?

Here are some pictures:

[spyug]

Should I just create a flat surface of ABS and then drill a hole for the damper pieces to fit? (This would probably be easiest)

and attach with ABS slurry. Definitely the easiest and most professional form of repair IMHO. I have done it that way a time or two and it works fine.

Not exactly the same thing but extensions I put on Katana chin fairings:


Hopefully that will show how easy flat pieces can be butt joined.

Good luck with it.
Spyug

[chuck hahn]

A while ago, someone also posted that with just a crack like that, you can take a syringe and dab just a drop of MEK to it and hold it for a minute or so then tape it in place.

The MEK remelts it together but evaporates very quickly and is workable much fatser than the ABS / Acetone slurry.

[Guest]

I don't why Suzuki made such chintzy panels for some of their bikes.
I never had a problem with any of the other bikes I owned, the Hondas, the Yamaha, and my GS1000.
The ones on my GS1000 are great, one screw holds them on and you can't overtighten it because there's a spacer, two slots on the top that metal frame tabs fit on and they have rubber grommets on them.
But my '82 GS1100E, those break if you look at them too hard. I ended up using copper tubing flattened and shaped to replace the broken tabs.
And modified a phillips screw to use as a post that broke off. So far everything is working out well.
You could make a piece out of thin aluminum or copper then epoxy it to the underside then shape it to
replace that broken off piece which could then be gluded on top of it. Of course it will look tacky from the underside.

[Bonehead]

and attach with ABS slurry. Definitely the easiest and most professional form of repair IMHO. I have done it that way a time or two and it works fine.

Hopefully that will show how easy flat pieces can be butt joined.

Good luck with it.
Spyug

Most likely the way I will be doing it. Any reccomendations on where to get the ABS/acetone anyone? I would assume Lowes/Home Depot would work.

A while ago, someone also posted that with just a crack like that, you can take a syringe and dab just a drop of MEK to it and hold it for a minute or so then tape it in place.

The MEK remelts it together but evaporates very quickly and is workable much fatser than the ABS / Acetone slurry.

Like this?

I don't why Suzuki made such chintzy panels for some of their bikes.
I never had a problem with any of the other bikes I owned, the Hondas, the Yamaha, and my GS1000.
The ones on my GS1000 are great, one screw holds them on and you can't overtighten it because there's a spacer, two slots on the top that metal frame tabs fit on and they have rubber grommets on them.
But my '82 GS1100E, those break if you look at them too hard. I ended up using copper tubing flattened and shaped to replace the broken tabs.
And modified a phillips screw to use as a post that broke off. So far everything is working out well.
You could make a piece out of thin aluminum or copper then epoxy it to the underside then shape it to
replace that broken off piece which could then be gluded on top of it. Of course it will look tacky from the underside.

I agree... These tabs break on almost every bike I've seen (suzuki anyway). I just cant comprehend why they thought this would work.

Hmmm... I think the ABS slurry sounds easier

[5150/gs]

I use a product called Problem Plastic. a professional auto body product that bonds and sets into a sandable/paintable material, the stuff is amazing.
I have mentioned it before but I do not think anyone here has tried it yet.I prefer it, it is easy to use and a 2 part type material.Comes in black and grey I have seen so far.

[eil]

Only problem with repairing the plastic with plastic is that the piece is still poorly designed so it will break on you again eventually. I like sedelen's suggestion of trying to work out a repair that involves metal for the important bits. You can (or may have to) still use an ABS slurry or glue to affix the metal bits to the plastic bits.

[83_450E]

I've used Q-Bond a lot. My last job was an aftermarket sunroof installer and doing that I tore apart interiors of cars all day. Most of the vehicles I worked on were brand new, less than 50 miles so replacing broken trim plastics was usually out of the question.
We had to "repair so many mounting tabs, clips, whatever. Lots of stuff broke and Q-Bond was a great patch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQYW5pXxj1k

Take a look.

[BigD_83]

I've used Q-Bond a lot. My last job was an aftermarket sunroof installer and doing that I tore apart interiors of cars all day. Most of the vehicles I worked on were brand new, less than 50 miles so replacing broken trim plastics was usually out of the question.
We had to "repair so many mounting tabs, clips, whatever. Lots of stuff broke and Q-Bond was a great patch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yQYW5pXxj1k

Take a look.

Q-Bond...

Thank you. For the life of me I could not remember the name of that product.