Those of you who do your own powder coating….

This is just an example of the products used to plug,cap or cover before you coat.
If you do a search you can come up with others...I personally liked to use the glass cloth tape on the surfaces that take a gasket or on the triple tree where your tubes slide into.
It's flexible and withstands 500 deg.
All the plugs are silicone so the powder doesn't stick to them.
And the tapes (different colors = different temp threshold) hold up pretty good.
The best being the glass fiber tape

http://www.intechservices.com/Masking-Products

[tkent02]

No but I did find out my old riding gloves have a hole in the thumb. OWwwww.

So now you are going to be the GSR pitchman for the OvGlove?

[tkent02]

Interesting little trick, had to remove the powdercoating from a few pieces I screwed up. Gloss black, having troubles with it. Paint remover didn't touch it, sandblsting an hour with my wimpy compressor only got most of it off one 4" x 6" part, still a lot of it left….

So I tried overcuring it, 500 degrees for a half an hour, back to the sand blaster, the PC came off like butter. One minute to get all of it off with the blaster, the stuff just flakes off in big areas.

[cowboyup3371]

Agreed. Tape, mask off, or plug any threaded hole/bolt on the bike as well as anything that needs to slide through a hole (like the brake stay) before you powdercoat.

I figured that might be the case. I used old bolts in the various holes so the threads wouldn't get coated with powder, so I'll probably just use a nut, bolt and a couple washers on the battery box's mounting points when I get around to doing the powder coat.


Thanks!

NO, don't do it that way.....tape it off.....the powder coat will stick to the nut, bolt, washer, and when you go to remove, it will crack the powder coating and could leave you a mess......

plug holes with plugs be it cork or wax, or something, but not with a bolt to remove latter....

just tape off the area you don't want the powder coat to be......

.

[Cassius086]

I figured that might be the case. I used old bolts in the various holes so the threads wouldn't get coated with powder, so I'll probably just use a nut, bolt and a couple washers on the battery box's mounting points when I get around to doing the powder coat.


Thanks!

mask off areas that you want to use as ground points, would be the best thing to do ...

.

[Cassius086]

I just tried powder coating for the first time myself. A friend has the Eastwood powder and gun set up.

I media blasted the parts (rear fuel tank mount and the side plate where the fuse block & R/R mount on my GS) as experimental pieces, since they aren't visible). It was my first time doing any sand/media blasting as well.

I will try to get proper photos up. I think they turned out pretty well. We used the Eastwood Gloss Black powder. I plan to do the stock triples, fork lowers and the battery box as well.

I do have one question: Will the powder coating affect electrical grounding points? Such as, if I decide to use the front battery box mount as a single point ground, for instance...

Yea, it might have been the toaster oven...I only say this because I have had that experience when I first started back in the day...
to close to the element and it burned the crap out of the powder.

A small oven doesn't have the insulation that a bigger one does so the element comes on a lot more and you'd be surprised at the temps those get to.
Our oven (we designed and built) had a million btu burner on it,but with all the duct work and insulation had pretty even temps

[tkent02]

To help avoid with the gassing out of parts you could also set temp lower and leave it in for a longer amount of time...

Most powders have a chart that shows you at what temp and duration it will be cured.

Example:

400deg for 10 min
375 deg for 20 min
350 deg for 30 min

some of the whites we did had to be done at the lower temp for longer duration to ensure consistency in color with varying metal thickness

Interesting, the Eastwood Gloss black just said 500 until the powder flows, then 400 for 20 minutes. The HF matte black stuff said 425 for 20 - 25 minutes. Did not know about this chart, maybe older for longer is the way to go. Will use the big oven too in case being to close to the heating element is the culprit.
Thanks for the ideas...

To help avoid with the gassing out of parts you could also set temp lower and leave it in for a longer amount of time...

Most powders have a chart that shows you at what temp and duration it will be cured.

Example:

400deg for 10 min
375 deg for 20 min
350 deg for 30 min

some of the whites we did had to be done at the lower temp for longer duration to ensure consistency in color with varying metal thickness

It is a deep black
Heres a link to the wrinkle pages from prismatic

http://www.prismaticpowders.com/powder-coating-colors/?gclid=CKu5-OXAs70CFUNqOgodbzsAUQ

There are a lot of colors in texture now


Footnote: see my original reply for my shop link

[tkent02]

Ordering it now, but first is it a really dark black and not grayish or blueish black?

This was always a good powder to use.
Might be able to find an equivalent

http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/PWB-6464/