How to clean up the aluminum cases

[Guest]

So again, which wheel depends on how much scratching and/or corrosion you need to remove. The Sisal wheel is stiffer and will remove the imperfections and sandpaper scratches easier. It doesn't buff the surface to as bright a sheen though.

Yes, that is true. Your work is very nice.

[Guest]

This thread is timed perfect for me. I've got my engine in pieces and was researching what to do to clean it up before putting everything back together. wahoo!

I have done just a very little bit of buffing. Two recommendations: eye protection and welding gloves

[Cipher]

The way you hold the pieces is very important. You can do yourself a serious mischief. A stout apron is also advised.

[80GS850GBob]

The way you hold the pieces is very important. You can do yourself a serious mischief. A stout apron is also advised.

Adding something behind the wheel{s} isn't a bad idea either....there's all sorts of "stuff" on the side of my toolbox at work from using the polishing wheel a little over a foot away from the back of it.

And yes, a good grip and angle of attack is very important when polishing....

[80GS850GBob]

Sears sells the black cutting compound. I didn't see a sisal wheel there though.

Thanks, I'll check there for the color.
Did you start, usually, with a sisal wheel...then finish up with either a lighter sewn wheel or a loose unsewn wheel? {and lessor grit rouge of course}....curious.

[Steve]

That starter cover doesn't count Steve!

So you have no problem with the cam chain tensioner or the oil pressure sensor?


How about a breather cover?


Cam retainers?


Oil cooler manifolds?


Sorry, but if it's there, it deserves to shine.

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[loud et]

I was just making a joke that the starter cover is already chrome. Of course all those other bits look great. I've seen your work before. Thumbs up.

[Steve]

And my point is that you should have a hard time telling the difference.

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[Nessism]

Thanks, I'll check there for the color.
Did you start, usually, with a sisal wheel...then finish up with either a lighter sewn wheel or a loose unsewn wheel? {and lessor grit rouge of course}....curious.

No, I don't use any other wheel. The sisal w/cutting compound brightens the aluminum more than enough for my tastes. It's actually brighter than that of the OEM Suzuki finish.

[80GS850GBob]

No, I don't use any other wheel. The sisal w/cutting compound brightens the aluminum more than enough for my tastes. It's actually brighter than that of the OEM Suzuki finish.

Good to know....Thanks, will try it your way.

[Guest]

I'm starting the aluminum covers on my T this week. I have a cotton wheel and white polish, I'll start with scotch brite pads from HF and then the Steve method and see where we end up...lovin this thread.

[Cipher]

do not start with a harsh abrasive
get another whhel and some black or brown compound

[BurntKittyForge]

I had good luck on my GSX1100G using 500 grit wet/dry and then the brown "Tripoli" on a stitched wheel from harbor freight. Lastly I applied "Mother's Polish" and that really brings out a nicer shine or tone.

Without even using the finer grade polish stick/tubes I could see my own reflection in the pics of motor case.
Some sunny days I'd like to rub wax on and leave it for less sun glare. Looks great at night though.

My "Bit" for the buffer wheel is a long 3/8th inch bolt (All-thread would work same) , and a couple washers and nuts. Care is needed that the tip NEVER touches the metal. I use this bolt in a fairly powerful hand-drill and I really have to hold the drill firm. I notice my biceps really flexing and keep my left hand gripped to the drill body just behind the chuck. Really have to "man-handle" the drill to prevent slips, tip hitting ever/ injury. I DON'T wear gloves with that because they could possibly get caught in...

In past I made my own buffer portion for this bit out of carpet scraps cut close to round. That worked good on fork tubes.

The rotary tool (Dremel or similar) is essential for the small places. I avoided polishing anything I can't get to to apply some type of protectant and underneath sides (Unseen , unreachable Or subject to more road crud).

For some reason I've found the green scotch-brite pads too abrasive , leave more scratches, harder to get scratches out, so didn't use . Except for on the carb bowls ...

Hadn't started the rims yet but noticed cleaning vinegar takes the white corrosion right off. It flash rusts steel so been just doing small test sections of aluminum w/ care using that...(?)

Definately need safety glasses with the wire wheel (more w/ rotary tool) ...works great on the small bits, but low speed so the little needles don't shoot off ...

One time I tried a homemade denim wheel in an angle grinder , it just exploded apart and flapped ...amusing though.

Oh, I'm not polishing the hadlebar parts or top of triple trees , experience tells me it's a nuisance riding in sun with that stuff shiny.
Good Luck, and maybe post some pics ?

[SVSooke]

I have tried glass bead, aluminum oxide and walnut shells, all at about 90psi. The walnut shells didn't do anything except waste some time (OK, a LOT of time), the other two looked pretty much like shibby's picture.

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I have used walnut shells to good effect.Not great for getting any corrosion off but if there's a fine pattern on a piece you want to keep it's the way to go.

The GPz peg brackets have just such a pattern in them,to keep that it was great.Tried on the rest of the bits and quickly changed out media.It's nice to have when needed though.

[Guest]

Strip, polish.