Clear coat on wheels and engine cases?

[duaneage]

The key is to go in one direction. You can use steel wool but I don't recommend it because it can cause corrosion. I did my forks this way and got the satin look by going in one direction across the forks.
I redo mine every few years , I usually get about 5 years on the parts.

I used 220 grit to get a similar finish then degreased with denatured alcohol. I cleared with clear engine paint, 2 coats. It lasts a few years.

Is the 220 grit finish closer to mirror or brushed? I want to do my engine covers and would love the OEM brushed look, but I'm curious how it would come out by hand. I thought about maybe blasting it but that seems maybe a little aggressive for aluminum?

[duaneage]

I used 220 grit to get a similar finish then degreased with denatured alcohol. I cleared with clear engine paint, 2 coats. It lasts a few years.

[GS1150Pilot]

If you polish aluminum, clearing it will become a nightmare.

[Nessism]

Powder coat gets my vote. I used Por-15 Glisten clear before and it's okay. A little bit cloudy. They sell a special prep spray to etch the metal before application. I used it on engine covers but didn't ride the bike big miles to see how it held up to the heat long term.

BTW, a highly polished surface makes it more difficult for the paint to adhere too. Suzuki's engine covers were more of a very fine brushed finish, not polished, before clearing.

[1978GS750E]

I'm restoring a 1978 GS750E and was wondering what most people do regarding clear coating polished parts. I am wondering about the wheels and engine cases. Any issues with then being coated? All of the parts will be polished to a mirror finish. If you have clear coated these parts, what brand of clear coat works best? Thanks in advance for the help!