Exhaust + Pods, VM26 carbs. When I got the bike it was all set to stock specs, and had to rebuild the head so all from above the cylinders was rebuilt fresh.
After reading a lot in the forums about how to properly tune for pods and seeing others success (or not!), decided to start messing with them to finally make it run right.
Don't have any fancy tools like colortune or any kind of digital gadget to measure anything available, only my trusted carb sync tool with 4 manometers that I've used on other engines successfully and are properly calibrated.
So with that out of the way, my results are:
Main 112 (from 95 factory)
Pilot 15
Needle on 3rd slot from the top
Fuel level 24mm
Fuel screw 7/8 out
Air screw 1-1/8 out
(and waiting for the air corrector screws to arrive)
With those settings it starts with the push of the button cold or hot, idles evenly, drops quickly to a steady idle, pulls strong through the entire range (might be a bit lean at the top end) so no complains there.
What I'm wondering is, how is it possible that I've seen similar setups on this same engine, with same carbs, using a 135 main, 2 1/2 turns on fuel and air screw (or even more), 17.5 pilot and runs great?
Through my trial and error, tested these settings and there was no way to make it run right, always went towards the rich side, no matter what.
Mine's got a 4-1 with no muffler and pods, but carb tuning is closer to factory spec. Maybe I'm missing something here? Or should I just settle for what it is now and leave it at that?
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