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    #16
    People use Seafoam thru vacuum lines to clean carbon deposits off valves and the combustion chamber. I guess its a more intense way than just adding it to the gas.

    But re-hijacking my thread back, I checked my valve clearances this afternoon, and found my exhaust valves to be less than .03mm (the smallest feeler I had) which is below spec - intakes were between .06mm and .07mm.

    My next question is: can you remove the shim without the tool? I read Steve's "zip-tie" method, and it looks like it doesn't apply to twins because you can't see the exhaust valve open through the spark plug hole. Is there any other way to get at the shims w/o using the tool?

    Thanks!

    EDIT: Nevermind, I ordered the tool (couldn't hurt to have one....)
    Last edited by Guest; 04-20-2010, 06:26 PM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
      PRI position= Prime. Used for priming the bowls after storage or rebuild.
      RES position= Reserve. Try not running on that as a 'usual means of practice', you may run out!
      RUN position is where you want to be. The vacuum pulls the petcock open and allows fuel to flow.

      OFF??? If you have a vacuum petcock, off is in the run position with the bike not running.

      Have a look: http://www.bikebandit.com/1983-suzuk...m6035sch238731
      Yeah I had another look at the bike, and it says ON, not OFF. Oh well, damn kids these days don't listen to anyone (or read, in my case ). I guess that solves the petcock issue...still have to look into the carbs as to why the choke isn't working (or does it require the vacuum line to run properly? )

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by spwalker09 View Post
        My next question is: can you remove the shim without the tool? I read Steve's "zip-tie" method, and it looks like it doesn't apply to twins because you can't see the exhaust valve open through the spark plug hole. Is there any other way to get at the shims w/o using the tool?
        I have never tried it on a twin, but I don't see why it woudn't work. Just point the folded end of the zip-tie toward where the valve would be, then turn the crank to see if the valve captures it.

        By the way, it's not my method. I believe credit is given to Mr. Matchless on that one.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          I have never tried it on a twin, but I don't see why it woudn't work. Just point the folded end of the zip-tie toward where the valve would be, then turn the crank to see if the valve captures it.

          By the way, it's not my method. I believe credit is given to Mr. Matchless on that one.

          .
          Much appreciated, Steve, but I felt it best due to my inexperience to learn how to do it the right way. I ordered the tool from RevZilla, and should only take a couple days to get here (its supposed to be nasty here tomorrow anyway), once I know what shims I have, I'll go .05mm over, and run down the street to the local shop that has the shims I need. A few other projects (cleaning the carbs, finding a way to get the god-blessed intake boots off) and she should be ready for the road (again...)

          Comment


            #20
            No need for the vacuum line to have the choke work. My guess is that there are plugged passages in the choke circuit, that are giving you the problem. A good soak in the carb tub, will fix that.

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by spwalker09 View Post
              Much appreciated, Steve, but I felt it best due to my inexperience to learn how to do it the right way. I ordered the tool from RevZilla, and should only take a couple days to get here (its supposed to be nasty here tomorrow anyway), once I know what shims I have, I'll go .05mm over, and run down the street to the local shop that has the shims I need. A few other projects (cleaning the carbs, finding a way to get the god-blessed intake boots off) and she should be ready for the road (again...)
              Why would you "go .05mm over"?

              The clearance usually decreases, meaning you will need THINNER shims.

              May I suggest you read the last part of my sig and contact me accordingly.

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #22
                Yeah I had a brain fart, and thought I had to go over .05mm, but its actually under. Still waiting on the valve shim tool (plus been busy with school) so I don't know what sizes I need just yet

                Comment


                  #23
                  Has anyone checked to see if the petcock he has on there is or isnt Vacuum actuated. I tried taking out the innards and using the petcock as a gravity only petcock---basically just a on/off switch for the gas. On my 79 750 this was do able without pluggin any internal holes in the petcock to prevent gas flowing when on prime---See old threads on this subject----But my petcock was too old and the seals on the switch part of the petcock wouldn't hold so I went with a new vacuum actuated Z1 petcock.

                  I also plugged the vacuum hose while playing around with my old petcock and from what I see of spywalkers current set up gas should flow in at least run and res both---But they would have to be manually shut off --just like a Pingel---When not running the bike to prevent overflow of the carbs

                  Without seeing the inside of the petcock can't tell anymore

                  Good Luck!!

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by tlepac View Post
                    Has anyone checked to see if the petcock he has on there is or isnt Vacuum actuated. I tried taking out the innards and using the petcock as a gravity only petcock---basically just a on/off switch for the gas. On my 79 750 this was do able without pluggin any internal holes in the petcock to prevent gas flowing when on prime---See old threads on this subject----But my petcock was too old and the seals on the switch part of the petcock wouldn't hold so I went with a new vacuum actuated Z1 petcock.

                    I also plugged the vacuum hose while playing around with my old petcock and from what I see of spywalkers current set up gas should flow in at least run and res both---But they would have to be manually shut off --just like a Pingel---When not running the bike to prevent overflow of the carbs

                    Right here, is the smoking gun:




                    Without seeing the inside of the petcock can't tell anymore

                    Good Luck!!
                    It be vacuum sucked like a Kirby...

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by spwalker09 View Post
                      The valve clearance check will be later this afternoon. How will I be able to tell what shims are in it now (i.e. are they labeled or am I going to have to borrow a set of calipers?)
                      The shim sizes should be labeled on the under-side, but usually a couple will have worn off. Best to have some calipers or a metric micrometer around if you can.

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