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throttle kills motor?

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    throttle kills motor?

    Hello again,
    My gs750 is getting madder and madder at me by the day. The bike starts fine cold with choke open, then i drop it down and it idles ok, ride a few blocks and the bike starts to hesitate a little and then another block and slight throttle kills the rpms. If you open it half way it will rev a little but very throaty sounding in exhaust. Eventually kills on its own. If i let the bike sit for 20 minutes the process starts over again. Carbs were rebuilt about 6 months ago, dont think they were ever tuned right. If anyone has any idea please let me know. Thanks guys!
    - R

    #2
    Hi there! if you check out basscliff's profile, then check out his website. Lots of info there. Might be the o rings between the carb boots and the head are leaking. I had that problem.

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      #3
      Originally posted by crapwacker View Post
      Hi there! if you check out basscliff's profile, then check out his website. Lots of info there. Might be the o rings between the carb boots and the head are leaking. I had that problem.
      Here's a link to his ever-so-informative site http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/ Also, what year is your 750?
      Last edited by Guest; 04-26-2010, 05:54 PM.

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        #4
        How old is your battery?

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          #5
          IF the bike runs on choke, and dies feeding throttle, the pilot circuit is probably clogged. Time to rebuild em Namely, the pick up orrifice in the float bowl and the pick up itself. But, you say it WILL idle, so that may not be the case..

          What do your plugs look like? Are they black? The warmer the bike gets, the richer the mixture gets. The carbs werent tuned, so perhaps its running so rich that as it warms up it gets TOO rich.

          Battery is also a good idea to check, but, if it seems to get better after sitting, I dunno. However I have seen batteries that actually recover a bit after sitting. Check your batt, charging system, etc.

          Boots and carb rings are also good to check, especially if you find that your plugs are WHITE instead of black. However, *I* have found that air leaks usually get BETTER as the bike warms up (metal expands, fills in the gaps some..) but may not happen to everyone.

          I would also check the voltage at the coils, check your plug caps, and make sure you're getting good ignition. Some guys have had problems with coils, being fine cold, then after they heat up, they shut down.

          Treat this problem as if you're just getting the bike running for the first time again. Do one thing at a time to assure you're getting and recording results accurately..

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            #6
            update

            The bike is an 82 750e. I played with the carbs a bit today and hooked up a jump box to the battery. Now the bike starts fairly easily and idles well with the choke slightly open, if i close it completely it stalls. On the center stand the bike revs fine, perfectly actually but i know that means nothing cause the problem is only when riding/throttle consistently used. I am really novice to carb tuning and will check bikecliff site for help. I tried to compensate for the choke closing with the idle adjust with really no results. just gets jumpy. Ill keep ya posted, thanks a lot so far!

            The boots to the head from carb are pretty new and have no cracks. Ill take them off and inspect further.
            thanks

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              #7
              The carbs need cleaned.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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