What To Do With 3 Air Bleed Holes

[tkent02]

One of the velcro attachment deals, the one I tried, unless they sell something better. It was strapped on very tight, but would slowly wander..

Was it on upside down?
It is made to tighten when you rock it down?
Mine stays put forever.
Maybe you have a cheap imitation?

[Suzuki_Don]

I wasn't mounted right, or was the wrong size.
They work great.

Don, I like to spray those holes every which way, making sure all the holes react the same on every carb. Plug the jet side with your thumb, then see a different spray pattern.

Thanks Tom. I am getting a great spray pattern now I have worked out how to do it with your help and others.

[Suzuki_Don]

Another question - diaphragm pistons

When I removed the two pistons from #1 & #2 carbs before I dipped them I found that there was an oily substance on the pistons which would explain why these two pistons were sluggish returning to the bottom of their travel.

Are these pistons supposed to be in a dry environment or is there some lubricant on them to prevent air leaks when the motor is running. Do I put them back dry or should they have a spray of WD40 or something else.

What is the best method of cleaning the diaphragms and with what. I would think carb cleaner is a bit severe.

Thanx.

[Guest]

I spray a corner of a towel and wipe down the slides. I don't let harsh chemicals touch the diaphrams. It warps them and it makes it a bear to reassemble plus it probably isn't good for the material.
The slides and bore should be dry and clean.

[Suzuki_Don]

I spray a corner of a towel and wipe down the slides. I don't let harsh chemicals touch the diaphrams. It warps them and it makes it a bear to reassemble plus it probably isn't good for the material.
The slides and bore should be dry and clean.

Thanks Bill. I knew I could trust you for some reliable carb information. You being the CARB GURU on the site.

The diapragms and slides are in really good nick, like new. So didn't want to risk causing any damage. I think these carbs had very low milage on them as the mixture screw plugs were still in place. No holes or passages were blocked, float bowls were really clean, etc.

Just one other question: Seeing as these carbs are off a 650G motor and I am tuning them for a 650E, what difference do the springs that fit in the top of the carbs make. I notice on the parts fiche that these springs have different part numbers for the "G" and "E" models. How will this affect the operation of the carbs with "G" springs. The springs are small in diameter compared with another set that I have from a GSX750 which are larger in diameter.

Thanks again

[Guest]

The "G" are the slower springs
I'd use the 750 springs. The smaller springs in my opinion would slow down the slides. The larger springs compress easier.
Test this theory for me Don.

[Suzuki_Don]

The "G" are the slower springs
I'd use the 750 springs. The smaller springs in my opinion would slow down the slides. The larger springs compress easier.
Test this theory for me Don.

OK Bill, I will use the larger springs from the GSX750 and see how they perform. I was surprised to see that the carbs off the 750 are the same as the 650 ones that I have and how many parts on them are plastic. The carb top that holds the diapraghm in place and the screw cap that holds the choke mechanism in the carbs are all plastic. Surprising.

[legaleli]

I had wondered about doing something like that on mine. My throttle hand gets numb very quickly, and I have tried several grip methoods

You should also look at Paresthesia, Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, Ulnar Tunnel Syndrome (also known as Cubital Tunnel Syndrome), Thoracic outlet syndrome, and Radial Tunnel Syndrome.

Most of these can be dealt with on your own... but addressing them sooner than later is a good idea. They sound a lot worse than they are.

[Guest]

OK Bill, I will use the larger springs from the GSX750 and see how they perform. I was surprised to see that the carbs off the 750 are the same as the 650 ones that I have and how many parts on them are plastic. The carb top that holds the diapraghm in place and the screw cap that holds the choke mechanism in the carbs are all plastic. Surprising.

The spacing on the 650 carbs are dfferent than the 750.

[Suzuki_Don]

The spacing on the 650 carbs are dfferent than the 750.

Yes, but the carbs are the same themselves, BS32SS.

Thanks again for help.

BTW ONE LAST QUESTION (I hope) the fuel feed "T" that fits between the two centre carbs does not have "O" rings on it. It is just a metal "T" covered in rubberised plasic with raised rings on it which press against the fuel inlet passage on each carb. You cannot fit "O" rings to it. Does this part leak in your experience if put back together as it was.

[Steve]

Does this part leak in your experience if put back together as it was.

If it does leak, take it out, give it a few wraps of Teflon tape, put it back together.

.

[Suzuki_Don]

If it does leak, take it out, give it a few wraps of Teflon tape, put it back together.

Great thanks Steve. That's a good solution. I was actually thinking about using some shrink on material to give a good seal, but your solution sounds better.
Thanks.

[Guest]

I've never had one leak unless it was cracked.

On the 650-750 carbs. The #2 and #3 are different. #1 and #4 are the same. But yes they measure 32mm but you can't swap them directly.

[Suzuki_Don]

I've never had one leak unless it was cracked.

On the 650-750 carbs. The #2 and #3 are different. #1 and #4 are the same. But yes they measure 32mm but you can't swap them directly.

Yes Bill I just had a look see. One of the centre carbs for the 750 has a fuel inlet directly into the top of the float chamber and from there feeds the other carbs with fuel. It does not have a "T" like the 650 carbs do. And the aluminium fuel pipes between the carbs look more flimsy and only have one "O" ring on each end instead of two on each end as in the case of the 650 carbs.

Learning a lot here about carbs.

THANKS