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    Help with Dynojet kit

    Hey, i'm struck trying to remove the old needle. i got a picture of what i have to remove, and can't seem to figure it out.

    the black clip seems to be holding the neede holder, i can turn it but not sqeeze it for it to come out.. hmmm
    Last edited by Guest; 06-04-2010, 02:14 PM. Reason: bad spelling

    #2
    Use a long skinny set of needlenose pliers as a circlip plier, it's very easy with the correct tool.

    You may need to file the tips down a little bit to fit into the clip's holes.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      Get youself a set of inside snap ring pliers, or use needle nose pliers that will fit in side the little hole on the snap ring. I took a pair of old needle nose and ground the ends so they would fit perfect, works great. the snap ring needs to be compressed inwards, it is sitting in a groove that hold the parts in. hope this helps.

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        #4
        hemo-stats have a couple of uses

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          #5
          I'll probably run to the hardware store and get some, if i'm doing this four times, i'm attempting to do it with two small screwdrivers and it's not working, the pliers i have are way to big for me to file 70% of the with to fit it.. lol i'll be back with the needle nose pliers.. should be worth every penny

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            #6
            Get the pliers. Screwdrivers will drive you mad.
            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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              #7
              Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post
              Get youself a set of inside snap ring pliers ...
              Exactly. The right tools make all the difference.

              I've got a cool set I picked up awhile ago. They have removable bits and a little switch to convert them to inside or outside.

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                #8
                wow what a difference.. had i thought of running to the hardware store earlier that would have saved me about an hour of frustration, and this forum is great, had it not been for the quick replies i wouldn't have made it to the store on time to pick up the last set, i'm realling hoping to get everything up and running in the next 3 hours thanks a ton!!

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                  #9
                  how to install main air correctors

                  Hey guys, am i supposed to somehow remove the old copper air corrector? or put this one on top of the old one? dynojet says "Locate main air jet passage, with the flat end facing the carbs, install the main air correctors provided, use the tool to tap lightly in place, then lightly touch a dab of glue (provided) on the outer edge of the air corrector. hmmm

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                    #10
                    How to install main air correctors

                    Hey guys, am i supposed to somehow remove the old copper air corrector? or put this one on top of the old one? dynojet says "Locate main air jet passage, with the flat end facing the carbs, install the main air correctors provided, use the tool to tap lightly in place, then lightly touch a dab of glue (provided) on the outer edge of the air corrector. hmmm

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                      #11
                      Just tap that one in. You don't remove anything.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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