3 lean plugs, 1 black plug....

[FlyingSteve]

I didn't mean to come off like a prick, Dave

I just pulled all the carbs completely apart and I'm about to give them a good scrubbing in the parts washer. Turns out that 3 of the 4 float needles were sticking... As in, if you give the float a little flick, usually it has a lively bounce on the float needle... Well, 3 of them I had to push the float needle in with a little force to get it to start moving in and out properly.

I'm really surprised at how well the bike ran despite all the little issues I'm finding.

Hopefully after I'm done putting the new seals in and cleaning them up the bike will run better. They'll look hella nicer too, which will be a compliment to the pod filters.

** I think I lost (or it was missing to begin with) one of those little spring clip thingies that holds the float needle in. How important is that thing? I put the float back on with the needle in and the float held the needle from falling out... And when there is gas in the bowls, the needle will spend most of it's time up in the bore anyway. So is this something I need to really worry about or not? I can't seem to find that little spring clip thing in the parts diagram, so I don't even know if I can order a new one. Any advice on this? Anyone have an extra one laying around or know the P/N??

[Dave8338]

Not a problem, Steve. We would have to move to the Off Topic section, before you could even begin to offend me. Not likely.

As for the spring clip that holds the float needle in place, I would suggest either finding one OR making one out of a piece of pallet band strapping.
You may end up in a situation at WOT for longer than usual and there is a chance that the fuel level could drop low enough that with the wrong bump...the needle (may) get bound up. Just a thought...

The thin ribon steel stuff. I've used it in places just as you mention and it always holds up.

Clips fly and get lost at the track...

Think of it as metal Duck Tape.

[FlyingSteve]

Mmm.. I think something like a paperclip would make for a better substitute. I held the carb upright and with the float in place fully distended, the needle was no where close to falling out and it moved up and down in the bore freely. The thing is, I saw the needle fall out... But no clip in site. I think it may not of been there to begin with. I can't even locate that stupid little retaining clip in the parts diagrams either to try and order a new one.

It is on an outer carb, so it won't be a big deal to remove the bowl and put it on at a later date when I can find one.

The little flat retainer that gets a screw in it to hold the float needle jet is still there... That would be easy to fabricate a new one.

Actually in the diagram there is this, .VALVE ASSY, NEEDLE
13370-44500 (replaces 13370-44080)

It's 27 dollars and you probably have to buy the whole thing to get that dumb little retaining clip!

[Big T]

Steve,

With the CV (BS) carbs, it's important to have good O rings and boots on the intake and everything sealed up on the airbox side. Many people use weatherstrip on the end panels for a good seal, since that original stuff is 30 years old

Keep chipping away, it'll get there.

Does your fuel petcock have a prime position? If so, cap the vacuum line at the carb and try running bit on prime.

[FlyingSteve]

Got no prime position on my pet cock.... God that is such a funny name.

Also, I'm done with the stock intake setup. I'm all ready working on the pods. Today I thoroughly cleaned the carbs inside and out and I'm putting them back together. I have new O-rings all around including new O-rings for the intake manifold boots.

[simon kuether]

I've got a PRIME position on MY pet cock .

Cheers , Simon.

[FlyingSteve]

I bet you do, Panama Red!

[FlyingSteve]

I'm going to put a larger pilot jet in the carbs. The stock is a 40 and my options are either a 42.5 or a 45... I'm thinking that maybe the 45 would be right the one... What ya guys think?

This is with the pod filters on now. I am going to run the bike with the 40's just to see how it is but I'm pretty sure I'll need to go bigger.

[FlyingSteve]

Ok, so here is the update:

I fired the bike up with the pod filters on and she started up quick and rev'd great. Very responsive, even when snapping the throttle real fast. I didn't actually get to ride it, I still have work to do (need to relocate all the electronics), but I could tell it sounded real strong and ready to go.

On another note, today I sold some of my spare parts to a local guy who has an early 80's 550 and he when he saw my pod filters he told me he used the exact same ones and all he did was put main jets in from a gs750 and it ran great. I asked him if he shimmed the needles or changed the pilot jet and he said no, just larger main jets and it ran good. I was really surprised and I'm hoping I'll have the same dumb luck lol

I shimmed all 4 the needles by exactly 2mm each, put in 105 main jets and bench sync'd the carbs. They were way out out on the sync. That "may" explain why 3 cylinders were lean and the cylinder 2 was really rich.

Tomorrow I'm going to make up a plate to mount all the electronics to the bottom of my seat pan and then I'll take her out for a spin and let you guys know how it goes.

[FlyingSteve]

Ok, so I got the bike out for a ride today with the pod filters on. It seemed to ride ok... But once and a while, sort of unpredictable, there would be a flat spot between 4-5K RPM... Seemed that if I opened the throttle more then it would pick up and take off. Higher RPMs it seemed to run real strong though and definitely faster than before.

The idle was a little odd though. I set it right around 1100, but sometimes after coming to a stop, the idle would settle around 1400... It was just being kinda goofy. Not sure if that is a sign of a lean mixture or something else being off?

Taking off from idle the bike accelerated smoothly and without hesitation. It still seems as if I am running lean though.
Cylinder 2's extremely rich plug is now becoming lighter in color.

I cleaned and bench sync'd the carbs. I am thinking that I may need a larger pilot jet. I'm running 105 main jets, 40 pilot and 2mm shims on the needles.

If I whip the throttle open she takes off damn fast. Just seems like the flat spot happened more when I was slowly rolling on the throttle.

I am going to call local dealerships tomorrow about a dynojet kit, just in case I can't get the engine tuned in right... Which would be due to the stock needle more than jet sizes. Before I buy a dynojet kit tho I'm going to get larger pilot jets and fatten my mains up and shim the needle some more. I want to see if I can just make this thing stupid rich and then try to tune it down from there.

So any suggestions?