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    air screw is... screwed!

    Bought one of my 1150 as a basket case. I'm working on a full rebuild of the carbs currently. #1 carb has gone well so far until I tried to remove the air screw. The head was so mashed I couldn't get any traction with a screwdriver.

    Went ahead with carb dip (hoping it might loosen things up a bit) and followed up with some penetrating oil. Still no luck.
    Went to the easy out. No luck.
    Took a torch to the carb body around the air screw. Still won't move.

    Apparently the previous owner used red lock tight on the air screw (why would someone do that?!?).

    Do I have any other options before I drill the whole thing out and likely ruin the threads?

    #2
    i had the same problem. the soak did not work, so i drilled and lost some thread. a forum member had the #1 carb and sold it to me for a few bucks. you may try squirting some acetone in the screw and let stand. a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF has a better rated bond-braking rating than pb blasters and others. I wish i knew that before i drilled the screw

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      #3
      If you already didn't mess up the threads or crack the body with the never-out cut the port off leading to the top of the screw with a dremmel. Cut a new notch into it. Heat it up and with a tight fitting screwdriver take it in first and then take it out. Last bit of info is important.
      Or just send them to me.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
        If you already didn't mess up the threads or crack the body with the never-out cut the port off leading to the top of the screw with a dremmel. Cut a new notch into it. Heat it up and with a tight fitting screwdriver take it in first and then take it out. Last bit of info is important.
        Or just send them to me.
        i had the same issue on all 4 of my carbs and cutting a brand new slot (a pretty deep one) in the screw heads did wonders for me...finding a tight fitting screwdriver to match is key

        Comment


          #5
          Or if you are closer to NJ if you pay for shipping both ways I can see what I can do.

          Years ago I used to rebuild a lot of carbs for people and have run into this many times, not so much with Loctite, thank God. I still have the tap for the idle jet thread, although that really is the last thing one should do. If the screw threads are messed up from drilling, after chopping off the area above the screw you can often address the threads with a sharp pick.

          You can do this on your own, just don't get frustrated. Replacement screws are available to return the carb to a better working and appearance condition.

          Comment


            #6
            Help! air screw is screwed

            Dear All,

            I am joining from Bathurst Australia for help with a stuck and damaged air mixture screw. I have been told in Australia you cannot get a replacement as they were never sold by Suzuki as a replacement part. I have read on your forum that this is a common problem but... where do I buy a new screw assuming I can get the old one out?

            I have just bought a 1981 GSX1100 Katana (after having a collection of GS/GSX bikes back in their day) The problem is the mixture screw on the no 4 cylinder is stuck fast and has been damaged badly by previous owner in an attempt to unstick. The plug is black so it is running too rich and needs to be replaced so I can lean off the mixture.

            If you can buy a replacement I would love to know!

            Please help!!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
              ... Cut a new notch into it. Heat it up and with a tight fitting screwdriver take it in first and then take it out. Last bit of info is important. ...
              Here is how I have done that (more than once):


              I don't cut the tops off, as Chef suggested, I just use the largest-diameter cut-off wheel I can in my Dremel and cut a new slot in the top of the screw. Follow that with application of a new or very sharp screwdriver and the screw should come right out.


              Originally posted by cnichols View Post
              I am joining from Bathurst Australia for help with a stuck and damaged air mixture screw. I have been told in Australia you cannot get a replacement as they were never sold by Suzuki as a replacement part. I have read on your forum that this is a common problem but... where do I buy a new screw assuming I can get the old one out?
              True, the screws were never sold by Suzuki, but that does not mean they are not available.
              Click on the links to check out these sources:

              Motorcycle Carbs

              Carb Kit Capital

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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                #8
                I just use a sonic cleaner & they all come loose like they are NEW! Ray.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                  I just use a sonic cleaner & they all come loose like they are NEW! Ray.
                  Any recommendations on what to look for in a sonic cleaner and where to find one?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    if you decide to try drilling, use a lefthanded (counterclock)drill bit
                    GSX1300R NT650 XV535

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