Winterization-carbs

[ddeboer]

Hi, I've got a 1983 GS1100E with 17,000 miles on her. I live in Western Canada and would like advice on the best way to store her over the Winter months.

I've heard of two methods:
1) put fresh gas in and add Stabil, run the bike so the new mixture is in the carbs.
and
2) remove the carbs, blow them out with compressed air. Remove the tank, empty it, blow it out. Prime carbs again in spring when ready to ride.

I'm looking to store the bike for 7 months. The carbs currently work great and I don't want any issues in the Springtime. I know the best solution is to run the bike regularly with clean gas but that is not an option in the climate where I live.

Please advise-thankyou in advance!

[Adler]

stored heated or outside?

[Steve]

I prefer option 1.

In addition, change the oil so you have fresh oil sitting in the bearings and put a battery tender on it, too. I will also suggest using at least double the recommended dose of Sta-Bil and fill the tank. Remember to leave the petock anywhere but PRIME.

Also remember that one of the WORST things you can do to your bike while it is in storage is to fire it up for a few minutes then shut it down. It does not matter how "sweet" it sounds, it won't charge the battery any better than the tender will, and will promote a LOT of rust and corrosion inside, where you can't see it.

.

[ddeboer]

..Heated storage

[chuck hahn]

Fill the tank and add the stabil...i wouldnt blow out anything. To my thinking that leaves exposed surfaces to rust or possible oxidation. Gas in contact with the surfaces wont let that happen..

[ddeboer]

Also remember that one of the WORST things you can do to your bike while it is in sto

Thankyou Steve. That's the method I was leaning towards-alot less work too!
Can you explain why starting the bike briefly promotes corrosion?

Thanks!

[chuck hahn]

starting runs the gas into the bowls and the stabil keeps the gas fresh..that promotes an environment that resists oxidation on the inside of the carbs and jets..also runs a bit of oil from time to time up to the top end and around everything else that needs oiled. I will start my bikes a few times through the winter and let them run for a while just to keep everything oiled and freed up so to speak. I have heard a lot about the "condensation" from short starting but havent had or seen any evidence of such a phenomenon..I personally think thats a wives tale. I let them run about 10 minutes and the air is cold enough that they wont overheat..

[Dogma]

... I have heard a lot about the "condensation" from short starting but havent had or seen any evidence of such a phenomenon..I personally think thats a wives tale. I let them run about 10 minutes and the air is cold enough that they wont overheat..

I've been wondering about that too. How is that supposed to work to promote rust?

[yank]

I believe the condensation you do not see would be in the exhaust,that being said if you let the motor run long enough to get it to operating temps condensation will evaporate,so I would not see a problem with that.

[chuck hahn]

i usually run about 10 to 15 minutes..and in the summer months while i am working on a bike i have an old furnace blower i use to push air across the engine..

[Steve]

Can you explain why starting the bike briefly promotes corrosion?

I've been wondering about that too. How is that supposed to work to promote rust?

As already mentioned, there will be condensation. The moisture that collects inside the crankcase will drip down and mix with the oil.

Moisture also collects in the exhaust system. Although there are (supposed to be) little holes to drain the pipes, not all of the moisture gets drained. The remaining moisture will rust out the pipes from the inside.

Idling the bike in the garage for 10 minutes certainly will not overheat the engine, per chuck hahn's concern, but it also won't heat things up enough to 'burn off' the condensation. As far as "keeping everything oiled and freed up", there is no real advantage to starting the bike. It will still be just as "oiled" after 4 months of sitting as it will after 4 weeks.

What I have practiced for years (and it appears to work well) is "don't start it unless you are going to RUN it". That is, take it for a ride of at least 20-30 minutes to get everything up to temperature. Exceptions are made for repair work, but after most repairs there is always the "check-out ride" that will do the job.


.

[Dogma]

Idling the bike in the garage for 10 minutes certainly will not overheat the engine, per chuck hahn's concern, but it also won't heat things up enough to 'burn off' the condensation. As far as "keeping everything oiled and freed up", there is no real advantage to starting the bike. It will still be just as "oiled" after 4 months of sitting as it will after 4 weeks.
...

This is the part that confuses me. The condensation is already there. What is the difference between not running at all and not running long enough to evaporate it? Also, won't any elevated temp (say, warm to the touch) tend to evaporate any moisture? Why is full operating temperature necessary?

Not that I don't need another excuse to take it out for a ride - I'm just trying to understand.

[yank]

This is the part that confuses me. The condensation is already there. What is the difference between not running at all and not running long enough to evaporate it? Also, won't any elevated temp (say, warm to the touch) tend to evaporate any moisture? Why is full operating temperature necessary?

Not that I don't need another excuse to take it out for a ride - I'm just trying to understand.

The hotter the motor,pipe you will have a longer period of time for the evaporation proses.

[Hornswaggle]

I think the biggest reason not to run the bike during the winter is all the exhaust fumes in the living room

[yank]

I think the biggest reason not to run the bike during the winter is all the exhaust fumes in the living room

I don't sleep in the garage since the old lady left(LOL)You?