Carb Noob

[cowboyup3371]

Please make sure you include pictures of number 7 as I may want that one in the future.

[Big T]

OK - plan of action now is:

1. Check the No. 4 plug for spark (please be this easy );
2. Check again for air leaks with spritz of WD-40 or carb cleaner;
3. Check for lean by hand covering the airbox while idling (mechanic suggestion);
4. Check for rich/lean with some idle jet adjustments;
5. Pull carbs and check float levels; and
6. Reclean carbs, spray out all jets, check all passages; and
7. Perform ancient ceremonial witch man ritual.

You're on the right track, but I wouldn't get too tangled up in the rich/lean issue as yet. But, did you check the sizes on the main jets and pilot jets? Confirm that they are all the same?

You swapping the #1 and #4 leads indicates that #4 is getting spark. Confirm it by pulling the plug and seeing if it fires.

Before you yank the carbs again, confirm that the enrichener on #4 is actually being pulled up. When you lift up the choke, do all 4 of the little arms pull up the little rods about the same amount?

No fuel to #4 is either faulty enrichener or a plugged pilot jet.

[MisterCinders]

I'll check the choke arm also.

Pretty sure I need to yank the carbs one more time. I am having doubts about the Bleeder jets, since I did not recheck those when I pulled the carbs last night.

[MisterCinders]

As for the main jets, they are all 102.5 and new. Of course, I cannot pull enough throttle to even engage the mains, so . . .

[Big T]

That's Ok

As long as you're keeping notes as you go along

[MisterCinders]

Never underestimate how stupid I am.

It took a lot of trial and error (again), but I figured out what was killing that cylinder and causing the throttle problems.

When I got home yesterday, I was convinced that I had a bad bleeder jet in No. 4, since I had not checked that the day before. So, I pulled the carbs, cleared out all the passages (they looked pretty clean though), bench synched them, and was ready to reinstall.

Then I recalled some sage advice from this thread. A ghostly voice of the koolaid kid spoke to me:

I suspect #4 carb is not getting any fuel, but the only way to check is to remove the bowl. If you pull the carbs again, do this. Pull the carbs, remove the #4 bowl, reconnect the fuel line and turn the petcock to Pri. If fuel does not flow at all there is the problem. If it does flow, I would then check the float level.

So I hooked up the fuel line first and fed the carbs off the bike. Sure enough, No. 4 was bone dry.

Pulled them apart again, ready to soak No. 4 overnight.

As No. 4 sank into the Berryman's like a captive Han Solo, I looked at No. 3. Perhaps a blockage there kept the fuel out?

Cinders, you moron, Berryman's cannot help you.

As I poked through the No. 3, carb, I was puzzled. The side channel into the float needle seemed blocked. Not at all clear and open like the No. 4 carb that was soaking. Hell, I could see straight through the channel on No. 4 . . . oh wait.

You are as clumsy as you are stupid.

Yes, I had foolishly switched the Nos. 3 and 4 carb bodies at some point. OF COURSE NO FUEL WAS GETTING TO NO. 4!

With the carbs in the correct order, re-synched, and everything reinstalled, the bike fires up, idles, enjoys throttle, etc.

Now I need to vacuum synch them and double check for air leaks. I started the air jet adjustments while idling, but I never could detect any idle change from turning them. Maybe it was just late for me, so I will check that again.

I also noticed very light wisps of smoke off the exhaust pipes where they come off the block. I think it may just be some junk burning off the hot pipes, but I kill the engine when I see it. Will set up a fan to keep the block cool when I vacuum synch.

Now if I can just figure out the whole rich vs. lean issue for these adjustments, I will be in business. Definitely going to ride the damn thing today.

Thanks to everyone for putting up with this saga and providing great advice.

[koolaid_kid]

WooHoo! I'm Obi-Wan Kenobi!
OTOH, you know what they say, almost anyone can get something right once in a while.
Glad you found the problem, and best of luck with the rest of your voyage.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Yes, switching carbs 3 and 4 doesn't work well. You'd also have quite an intake leak if you hooked up the hoses the as normal.
You haven't posted in several days and my computer contracted a virus that shut me down the last 9 days. How did your test run go?
Also, I just noticed your signature says you ARE running pods now? Any previous advice I gave was only for the V/H pipe you mentioned. Pods completely change everything. You'll have to adjust the jet needles if you run pods. Factory setting will be WAY too lean.
If you need jetting help then let us know.

[MisterCinders]

Changed the main jets to 110, but will probably go to 120.

Also moved the needle clip down one below center. Now chasing the idle mix and an exhaust leak.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Changed the main jets to 110, but will probably go to 120.

Also moved the needle clip down one below center. Now chasing the idle mix and an exhaust leak.

120 main is probably still lean. But as always, test first at full throttle.
Generally, one position richer on a stock jet needle isn't enough compensation for a quality pipe and pods. (Was your factory jet needle e-clip position at #3 ?) Test at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
You may be able to keep your stock #15 pilot jets but 17.5 may be necessary. You can try richer pilot fuel screw (underneath) adjustments first to see if that works in combination with the stock jets. If no joy by the time they're 3 turns out then you've passed their effective range and need the 17.5.
Be sure to remove the two floatbowl vent lines to help the bowls vent better when running pods, especially in windy conditions. Keep the ports open to breath.