Choke not even working

[GabrielGoes]

So guys my carbs are being such little idiots, its being a big pain inthe @** to start when its cold and the choke doesnt even work... i have been playing with the carbs for the past couple of weeks.. the choke makes my idle at 1k rpms when usually it shoots to like 3.5k... extreme spitting noises also lol.. any ideas?

[Larry D]

Are you just using the choke cable ? Try doing it manually at the choke rail.

What have you been doing with the carbs ?

[raistian77]

So guys my carbs are being such little idiots, its being a big pain inthe @** to start when its cold and the choke doesnt even work... i have been playing with the carbs for the past couple of weeks.. the choke makes my idle at 1k rpms when usually it shoots to like 3.5k... extreme spitting noises also lol.. any ideas?

When was the last valve clearance check?
Spitting noises are usally caused by lean running, check intake boots. Also check the enrichment valve o'rings for possible leaks. Might also need to check the enrichment passage in the float bowls.

bad boots were causing my funny start up running on my 79 850. They would suck air till they heated up and sealed off.

[GabrielGoes]

What have you been doing with the carbs ?

ive been going back and fourth with the pilot fuel screws on the bottom and the pilot air screws on the sides and moving up and down on main jet sizes currently im on 125 which makes the bike run the best.... bike has new intake boots, and i have been using it at the choke lever mine doesnt even have choke cable.. maybe the rubber o rings around each individual choke thing are letting in air..

[tom203]

Are you just using the choke cable ? Try doing it manually at the choke rail.

What have you been doing with the carbs ?

Be careful what you ask!

[GabrielGoes]

Be careful what you ask!

Hahahahahhaah

Guy i dont think any of these items in the "carb rebuild kit" shown are really the issue here : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FOUR-...Q5fAccessories

i dont even see the choke plunger rubber thing there eaither?

Edit: my petcock is fine too.... i think my mixture screws where set too rich and thats why it had trouble starting im gonna go mess with it right now

[raistian77]

maybe the rubber o rings around each individual choke thing are letting in air..

could be
hard start cold is usally a valve clearance issue.
Too rich should cause a easy cold start but a crappy warm running

[Steve]

... i dont think any of these items in the "carb rebuild kit" shown are really the issue here :

Any chance you still have the old parts? They are probably better.

The fact that you have installed rebuild kits only complicates troubleshooting.

... i dont even see the choke plunger rubber thing there eaither?

Strangely, I have not seen them in ANY kit, including the highly-recommended one from forum member Robert Barr.

... i think my mixture screws where set too rich and thats why it had trouble starting im gonna go mess with it right now

Rather than "messing with it", why not "set it"?

With your pods and pipe combination, the pilot fuel screws (the ones on the bottom of the carbs) should be out about 1 to 1 1/8 turns. For a starting point, the air screws (those are the ones on the side of the carbs) should be close to double that.

.

[GabrielGoes]

Rather than "messing with it", why not "set it"?

With your pods and pipe combination, the pilot fuel screws (the ones on the bottom of the carbs) should be out about 1 to 1 1/8 turns. For a starting point, the air screws (those are the ones on the side of the carbs) should be close to double that.

.

i set it out 1 1/2 turns each and the air screws double. this is the settings it used to really work every time, i have never owned the bike in cold weather as i got it last springish... so this is the first time i have faced cold hard starts... right now the bike doesnt start unless i try for 10 minutes, starts right up when warmed up though... is this a tell tale sign for a valve adjustment or are there any quick fixes out there?

[cowboyup3371]

Valve adjustment to start Gabriel like a lot of folks have already told you.

[GabrielGoes]

Valve adjustment to start Gabriel like a lot of folks have already told you.

yup this is definitely comming soon, i heard a while ago that there are certain spark plugs that work better in the winter when i had my ninja 250 the sparkplugs for the summer was XXX-7 and the winter ones were XXX-8... does anyone know anything about htis?

[tkent02]

yup this is definitely comming soon, i heard a while ago that there are certain spark plugs that work better in the winter when i had my ninja 250 the sparkplugs for the summer was XXX-7 and the winter ones were XXX-8... does anyone know anything about htis?

NGK B8ES, and hey, while you are at it, why not adjust the valves so it starts instantly when it's cold.

[Dave8338]

The plugs are not the problem. If they are, it is because they are being tortured in the "starting process".

If you are afraid of the valve adjustment process, that is OK to admit. If you've never done one, it can be a little intimidating, for sure.

There are loads of people who will be happy to help you through the process and make it a learning event and not a torture session.

Just have to ask.

Waiting, won't fix the bike and with all the cranking you're doing, you are taking precious life out of your starter and may soon be asking why it won't crank at all.

Just my take on the situation...

[GabrielGoes]

The plugs are not the problem. If they are, it is because they are being tortured in the "starting process".

If you are afraid of the valve adjustment process, that is OK to admit. If you've never done one, it can be a little intimidating, for sure.

There are loads of people who will be happy to help you through the process and make it a learning event and not a torture session.

Just have to ask.

Waiting, won't fix the bike and with all the cranking you're doing, you are taking precious life out of your starter and may soon be asking why it won't crank at all.

Just my take on the situation...

thanks guys for the support... i took out my Iridium plugs and they were all soaking wet and all black and ruined looking! i put in my spare B8ES's and she started kind of right up but with full choke it only sat around 1k rpm! i just asked my local bike shop guy how much for a valve adjustment he says 250 dollars! i have done pretty much everything on my bike and i am not about to just sell out on this valve adjustment... my only fear or question is can anyone just tell me what valve shims i need for each valve? is there a guide for sizes? i pretty much understand the whole process and i want to replace ALL of them regardless if they need it or not.. here is bike bandits link : http://www.bikebandit.com/1978-suzuk...61?mg=3642&t=1 theres like 50 different options and sizes to get im totally lost

[cowboyup3371]

Get ahold of Steve for his spreadsheet and talk to GhostGS1 about the shim club. You need to measure with what is in there now, document that size, and then go down from there. It's not hard and Basscliff's procedures are not hard to follow. Even with buying a set of METRIC feeler gauges (~$3 or $4), the Suzuki tool from Z1 (~$13), getting a new valve cover/breather cover gasket, and paying the club for shipping or $10, you'll come way out on top. Even with the time waiting for everything to come in it only took me about 2 or 3 hours of actual work.

After reading things again, you'll need to also resynch your carbs when you are done with the valve job.