Fuel Screw Not Adjustable?

[krolson]

Hi everyone. I'm a new owner of a 1982 GS750E and have been trying to get it to run. Thanks so much to everyone on thegsresources for all the education (and amusing) forum discussions and resources.

I am currently working on cleaning the carbs and replacing the o-rings. I have a question about the fuel flow screw. In the carb cleaning tutorial for CV carbs page 25 it shows that the fuel flow screw (labeled 'air screw' in the pics; I believe this is the screw that the correction refers to) is slotted for a flathead. On my carbs they are not slotted; they just have a small hole in them. Can y'all please help me with my confusion? A couple options I can think of are:
1. Leave them as they are and just clear passages with my berrymans spray
2. Cut a slot in them so I can remove them.
3. Perhaps the piece with the hole is a cap that I can remove in order to reach the fuel flow screw? That is the prevailing theory in the office this morning.

The carbs are Mikuni CV with the following stamped on the side: 45420 C224

Are there any other important details I left out? Still waiting for this coffee to sink in.

[tkent02]

3. Perhaps the piece with the hole is a cap that I can remove in order to reach the fuel flow screw? That is the prevailing theory in the office this morning.

Door number three. It's just a soft aluminum plug over the screw. To remove the cover, I use about a drill bit about two thirds the diameter of the plug, chucked in a hand drill but turned by hand. It will drill in a little, then stick, at that point just pull the plug out. If the screw is stuck it's because they used paint as a thread locker at the factory, use some solvent or something to soak it for a little while.

[Guest]

3. Perhaps the piece with the hole is a cap that I can remove in order to reach the fuel flow screw? That is the prevailing theory in the office this morning.

Someone in your office has won!!

They are the factory caps - you need to remove them to get to the idle mixture screws underneath.

The caps are press-fit in - most here (myself included) simply drill a hole through them & screw in a sheet metal screw a couple of threads, then grab it with a pair of pliers & yank the cap out.

Be careful not to hit the screw head under the cap with the drill bit - it will erase the slot a bit if you hit it. The caps are approx 3/16" thick, so go easy when you drill them. Sometimes the drill bit itself will actually spin them out.

Goodd luck & welcome to the fourm - we need pics of your bike!!

mike

.

[Guest]

Door number three. It's just a soft aluminum plug over the screw. To remove the cover, I use about a drill bit about two thirds the diameter of the plug, chucked in a hand drill but turned by hand. It will drill in a little, then stick, at that point just pull the plug out. If the screw is stuck it's because they used paint as a thread locker at the factory, use some solvent or something to soak it for a little while.

I was beat to the punch!!

Tom, you type too fast for me...

[DanTheMan]

Those are EPA caps on the air mixture screws. They can be drilled out and removed, or thread in a sheet metal screw to pull them out. The air screw below has an o-ring, spring and washer, all very small items. The o-rings should be replaced and make sure the passage in the carb is well cleaned for them to work properly. You say you've looked at BassCliff's tutorial and he says that too. Good luck.

all you other guys beat me to the punch!

[krolson]

Thanks guys! I must have missed that on BassCliff's tutorial. I'm suffering for GS info overload (which is actually a really good thing!). I'll get pics up soon. So far I have felt dumb taking/posting pics of my bike that isn't currently rideable. Need to ditch the foolish pride.

[Guest]

I suppose you've already sent for the carb replacement o-rings from Robert:

http://www.cycleorings.com/

but if not, here's the link. You're lucky, you don't need the intake boot o-rings - your bike doesn't use them!