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installing the CV boot correctly

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    installing the CV boot correctly

    I'm having a real problem getting my CV Boot to stay in the groove while I get the CV Cap reinstalled. I am aligning the tab. I can barely get the Boot to stay in all the way around with my fingers on it, as soon as I try to get the Cap on, it pops out of the groove.

    Is there a trick to it?

    I'm really hoping this doens't mean my CV Boot is warn out.

    thanks,

    #2
    Hi,

    Try gentle heat from a hair dryer or soak them in hot water for a little while. Then see if they lay down long enough to get the cap on.


    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

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      #3
      Hi ACR, this diagram shows the best way to put diaphragms back into your carbs,push the rubber down until it looks like an umbrella then put a little grease into the groove in the main carb body that the rubber sits in and grab the stem that holds the needle in place with a pair of pliers, and gently lower the diaphragm into place noting the locating lug moulded into the rubber of the diaphragm is seated correctly in the cut out in the casting-the grease will stop the diaphragm lifting again when you put the spring and cap on.I have used this methop many times and have yet to have a diaphragm lift on me, just be careful that the locating lug is in the correct place as if you nip it off the diaphragm is scrap!. hope this helps. Johnny

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        #4
        Nice drawing, Johnny. One of yours?

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          #5
          Originally posted by ACR View Post
          I'm having a real problem getting my CV Boot to stay in the groove while I get the CV Cap reinstalled. I am aligning the tab. I can barely get the Boot to stay in all the way around with my fingers on it, as soon as I try to get the Cap on, it pops out of the groove.

          Is there a trick to it?
          Hopefully you are talking about the DIAPHRAGM, not the boot. (The boot is what connects the carb to the airbox or the cylinder head.)

          Johnny Drummond's drawing is the start of my "trick". Start with the diaphragm in that position, gently lower it until it sits in the groove. Hold the slide in that position with your finger in the carb throat, put the spring into place. Put the cap in place on top of the spring (which is quite a ways over the carb), then lower it into place, compressing the spring, but DON'T LOWER THE SLIDE. You should be able to hold the cap in place long enough to get a couple of the screws lightly seated. NOW you can release the slide and know that the diaphragm is secure in its groove.

          .
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            #6
            Hi Dave,
            Yeah I drew that sketch, it was done in about 15 minutes along with 2 others to help Redman out with a question he posted 3-4 months ago(although I'm glad my old engineering drawing teacher can't see it, as he would be mad at the way I drew the spring all I could hear in my head was "my god boy, have I taught you nothing about drawing elipses". here are the other 2, Redman wanted to know if his diaphragms were holed and I have a set of scrap ones so I did these to show him what the damage looks like.Mabye someone else can find them useful, but they are really rough!!.Johnny

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              #7
              I use Vaseline





              To keep the diaphram in the groove.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                I use Vaseline





                To keep the diaphram in the groove.

                I was gonna say....



                Thank you for your indulgence,

                BassCliff

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