Ruined carbs - help needed

[Nessism]

Hi Pat,

The 34 mm carb pieces are the same size. Unfortunately, the pieces I have are the mirror image of the piece you need. I think there are RH and LH oriented pieces so to speak and the ones I have won't work for you. So sorry, but don't give up hope. Post those photos in the parts wanted forum and someone here will have a carb body you can take that piece from. It's easy to change, trust me.

Ed

[mobius]

back with some more questions about these carbs that are slowly driving me up the walls. Excuse the length, I like pictures and detail

Well I purchased a carburetor body from a '82 GS650Z - it was mentioned earlier in the thread that the 650 carb would work with my setup [BS32SS]. I checked the Mikuni stats page on basscliff's site and seemed that simply changing the components into the new carb body would solve the problem, but boy was I wrong...
The parts arrived today and I cheerfully started to transfer all the parts from the broken body into the new one, thinking I would soon start the engine for the first time in over 2 years. As you would have guessed, I have once again run into a wall

After replacing the jets and float I put the float bowl on..*gasp*....wait a minute something is not right here, it doesn't seem to make contact with the gasket...
After a couple of minutes of observation I pulled out a ruler and started measuring. Guess what the problem is yet? you got it! the new "choke circuit fuel pickup tube" is 4 mm longer than the one on the original -guess size does matter!!!

here is a picture, because they tell more than I ever could - right is the original :




so right now if I put the float bowl on, it will make very close contact with the gasket but I think all the pressure is put on the brass tube - not good right ?


so my other option is to take off the adjuster piece all altogether and replace it with the functional one. But here is where the other problem starts - after all these consecutive failures I am slowly losing all confidence in my wrenching ability so I'm not quite certain if these roll pins are in my league. I don't own any roll pin punch tools - are there any alternatives to taking them out? how would I re-install them? (if they can in fact be reinstalled)

Here are the suckers that are giving me hell:
Broken:



Replacement:




I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone could provide pictures or videos on how to remove the roll pins or suggest a way to use the current setup?

[Guest]

Cut the tube off to the right length. Use a dremmel or a hack saw and don't break it. It will work as long as it can suck fuel because there is a jet in the float bowl that will meter the fuel.

[Indysteve]

Mobius, have you repaired this yet?

If not I have the answer for you.
Find a nail you have around the house close to the same size as the pin in that linkage. I am guessing a framing nail will do without looking closer.
The nail needs to be a hardened nail, not aluminum or zinc.

Cut the tip off as flat as you can.
You are not trying to win a beauty contest on how flat the nail is

Support the bottom side of the linkage and leave the pin hole exposed and drive that puppy out.

I have used said method in a pinch on many a lawn mower pulley and it has worked every time.

If you are not sure you can do this, go buy a punch of the same size as the pin and drive that thing out.

Small ball peen hammers work best for this.

[Ranger]

I have a full rack off a 700 if they'd work by switching jets, etc.

[bmac]

What Bill (chef) says is a logical solution. Also, using a nail or a drift pin would remove that roll pin. Gently reinstall it into the good body. With these minor bumps you are experiencing it is a given. We have all been there at one time or another. One thing is to do it right the first time and take your time in doing it. This isn't just a pit stop. You will be riding soon, it's only May. Bob

[Nessism]

The nail method works great. If you have a bench grinder you can trim a fatter nail to get just the right diameter.