Carb or petcock problem

[dluszcz]

Just switched the float, float needle, and seat from carb #1 to carb #3 and the same from carb #3 to carb #1.

Because Mother Nature doesn't like Chicago for some reason, it just started to rain as I was warming up the bike to ride it. So, I let it run for about 3 minutes in the driveway before I shut it down and pulled it back into the garage.

I figure there's should be more than enough gas that passed through the carbs that if it still continues to leak, it's not going to matter how long it is on or how long I ride.

I just want this problem to be solved!

Edit: I decided to take the overflow tube off the carb #3 and put a blue shop paper towel underneath folded twice over to catch anything. If it's leaking, I should know in the next couple of minutes.

And, if this doesn't stop the leak, going to take the tank off, run a tube from the petcock to a gallon container, and let it sit overnight to see how much leaks out.

[dluszcz]

Tank is off. Longer hose attached to the fuel line and the vac tube attached to the vac line. I put a doubled up piece of cardboard with a small block to simulate the tank is on the side stand.

Lots (well, in my opinion anyway) of fuel came out of the line when I jostled the tank placing it on the work bench. The petcock was in the ON position. I did the same tests moving to PRI, back to ON, RES, back to ON with the same results as earlier.

So, I completely dried a small container (decided not to use the gallon container cuz it wouldn't sit well on the make shift table) and placed a piece of cardboard on the bottom (so that I know if anything leaked).

I feel confident that the leak is not the petcock and I'm hoping that 1+ gallons of gas all over the make shift table and garage floor are not the result of my over confidence.

The bowls of the carbs are still full and guess what? #3 still has a drip. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what the heck I have to do to get this to stop leaking.

I'm calling it a night as I'm so frustrated that I'm not thinking straight. I will think about this while working tomorrow and maybe there are more suggestions posted that I will be able to attempt to get carb #3 to stop leaking.

[Nessism]

Why not measure the fuel level? I've read here before where guys get a piece of clear tubing and sort of smash the end than screw it into the drain port threads and it's good enough to not leak. My guess is your floats are letting too much fuel in.

[7981GS]

After giving it further thought, I believe I'm absolutely wrong on that possibly being the problem because of vacuum building up in your tank, I just don't see how it could affect your vacuum line going from the petcock to the carbs, but even still you may want to check that filler cap vent hole to ensure it isn't clogged with sealer.

I agree. It could be the cause.
Just not being able to vent, builds a lot of pressure! (Warm fuel expands.)

Daniel

[Tom R]

What side of town are you on?

[dluszcz]

The petcock has been officially ruled out. Not a single drop on the cardboard that was placed inside the plastic container.

The vent line in the gas tank is clear. I am able to stick a safety pin all the way through with zero resistance.

The gas tank was removed almost immediately after I let it run in the driveway. This morning, there is a wet spot still on the cardboard. I'm betting the bowl should be close to empty by now.

It's been brought to my attention that maybe I accidentally switched the carb bodies to #2 and #3 while rebuilding them. I kept all the parts together but maybe I grabbed the wrong one or something.

I'm waiting for pics for what carb body #2 and #3 look like on another set of carbs via email to see if maybe that is what I did. I'd feel like such an idiot if that is what I did! But, who knows. This is my 1st rebuild and I'm not ruling out any possibility.

I hope that is the solution, no matter how it makes me look. If that is it, I feel like I wasted everyone's time trying to help me and for that, I apologize. And, you can bet that I will take even better care to make sure I don't mix up the parts again like that.

To Tom R, I live in the northern suburbs, Johnsburg.

[dluszcz]

I don't think I switched carb bodies. If I did, the adjustment screws would be on the wrong side, right?

[Matchless]

I think you should have a closer look at the float bowl drain screws. most likely one of them is leaking. The bowl when full and not having the tank to feed it should not leak any fuel. It can overflow though but needs to have something feeding it.

[rustybronco]

I'm waiting for pics for what carb body #2 and #3 look like on another set of carbs via email to see if maybe that is what I did. I'd feel like such an idiot

Carb #3 has the BB plugging one of the two holes where the float is located. on carb #2 both holes are open.

[cowboyup3371]

I think you should have a closer look at the float bowl drain screws. most likely one of them is leaking. The bowl when full and not having the tank to feed it should not leak any fuel. It can overflow though but needs to have something feeding it.

I would second Matchless here. As simple as it is, these are perhaps the easiest screws to forget to tighten back up; I know, I did it.

[dluszcz]

I'm not home yet but I know the drain screw is tight. The leak is something internal. I pulled the overflow tube and watched the gas drip from the nipple.

In regards to switched Carb bodies, wouldn't the adjustment screw that is on an angle be on the wrong side? I would have to have a long screwdriver and go in from the opposite side to get to it if I switched the bodies.

When I pull the carbs again, I will pull the float needle and seat and look to see if there is a BB blocking 1 hole or if they are both clear.

[rustybronco]

When I pull the carbs again, I will pull the float needle and seat and look to see if there is a BB blocking 1 hole or if they are both clear.

The holes are under the floats when looking at the carbs from the bottom. no need to remove the seat; just the float.

yes the air screws would be on the wrong side if you swapped carbs. that is if no one mixed and matched parts long before you bought it.

one more thing you might consider while you have the float bowls off. pour a little 'petrol' in each of the float bowls and check for cracked overflow tubes.

I can't stress this enough, check the wet float levels while the carbs are off the bike. unless you would like more practice with removing them.

***edit***
I don't know if the main jet issue has been addressed so far in this post. IMHO 102.5's are way to small for pods and a pipe.

I have pod filters and a 4 into 1 exhaust.

Per the advice of people at Z1 and on here, I moved the needle to position #4, installed 102.5 main jets, and thought that the rebuild went well. Bike is running, but extremely rich.

[dluszcz]

Since the carbs are off the bike, I decided to try something else.

I don't think this will have any effect, but I took a different bowl, dipped it (varnished up pretty good), rinsed it off, used compressed air to clear out the overflow tube and drain plug, and put it on carb #3.

I also, used the last remaining seat (from the box o' leftovers) and the same float needle. I put it back together and since the tank was off the bike, I ran the hose to the fuel inlet.

I have it on PRI in the garage and the carbs are straight up and down sitting on a couple of rolls of tape and a box. It works and thankfully, hasn't tipped yet. Bowls should be full by now and it's just a matter of time.

I placed a small piece of a blue shop towel under carb #3. Now, I'm going to wait about an hour to see what happens. Hopefully, no wet spot. I will report back.

Edit: Also, if anyone has pics of how to do a wet float test. I know I've received some pics on how to make the gauge, but I have no idea where to put that. I've never done this before and I usually pick up how to do things pretty easily. But, this one is not clicking. Any pics or additional instruction on how to do this would be helpful. It may be that I'm overthinking this but I'm just really frustrated that I can't get this 1 pesky leak to stop.

[Sandy]

The quickest and easiest way to make a float test guage is to get a piece of clear small ID and large OD fuel line and taper one end with a knife or razor blade, stick it in the float bowl drain hole and give it 1/2 to 3/4 turn and it shouldn't leak. Then hold it up against the side of the carb and turn the petcock to prime. You should then see where the fuel level sits, I think it should sit slightly below the gasket.>>> (See diagram in post #12) As for the petcock being a problem, I highly doubt that. You should be able to leave the petcock on prime (not that you would) and the float valve should stop any fuel flow to the carbs. I've accidently left mine on prime for a couple of days and the floats didn't leak. Just think that when you park the bike after a ride the fuel hose is still full of fuel and it shouldn't leak out the carbs, sure there is more pressure if petcock is on prime but it still shouldn't leak. My bet is that there's still something not right with the float height, the float itself or float valve. Is the float binding on the side of the float bowl? I was going to make the suggestion to swap a float valve from one of the non leaking carbs but it sounds like you already figured that one out.

[dluszcz]

OK. So far, so good. An hour plus and no leak. Not even wetness around the nipple.

So, now I will put the carbs on, ride the bike for a couple of hours, unhook the overflow tube, and put some blue shop towel piece underneath to catch any possible leak.

Keeping my fingers crossed that this works.

Otherwise, off they come again and I'm going to do the wet float test with Sandy's information.