Rebuilt Carbs now some funky problems

[Rligg87]

So i rebuilt the carbs, soaked them, all new parts, o rings, everything. I put them on tonight, attached the airbox but no filter (not sure if that matters) and hooked up a remote bottle to fuel it so I could leave the tank off. I had the the pilot jets? turned out 2.5 turns. It wouldn't start unless I sprayed carb clean into the airbox. After a few tries of that with full choke it would stay running. Now for the funky parts...

- Only starts on spray

- It bogs down/tries to die when you open the throttle even a little

- Randomly it would rev up to around 6k then go back down, it would hang up there for a few seconds also

- I noticed the choke position didn't really do much, atleast from the few minutes i had it running. If anything I would say it brought the rpms down.

- The right side, cylinders 3,4 were hardly running if not dead. I have a laser temp gun and they were anywhere from 40-70 and 1-2 were up over 150. Thats on the exhaust pipe.

- I pulled out the plugs on 3-4, put the boots back on to check spark. Well the first try I forgot to unplug 1 and 2 and when i hit the starter it fired right up, obviously without spray. So i took 1-2 plug boots off and checked spark and 3-4 does have spark. I put all new plugs in and it seemed like 3-4 were running a little better but not much.

So that's where I give up for the night, any ideas? Should I get a set of carb sticks next (or make homemade ones?) Thanks guys!

[niclpnut]

What bike are you working on?

If its hanging on idle you could be seeing a real lean condition. No filter means your getting more air than gas in the mix, so you aren't seeing cylinders fire. When you spray in the fluid, you get something to burn. Put the filter in.

With the remote tank, did you plug the vacuum line with a golf tee or something of the sort.

I hung an extra fuel tank from a lawnmower on the handlebars, ran some 1/4 line with a fuel shut off valve, capped off the vacuum line with a golf T, and was ready to go.




Nic

[Rligg87]

Oh my bad, the bike is a 82 GS650GL(z?). Yea I plugged that vacuum line with a screw. I'll try it with the filter tomorrow, depending on what it looks like i may need to get a new one first. I just got the bike so now I'm figuring out all these problems. Like how there was no choke cable, or lever on the handle bar haha that one took a little bit to figure out. What bike is in that picture?

[Steve]

What bike is in that picture?

Take a look in his signature. That's why we suggest that EVERYONE does that.


Clean carbs are only part of the "start" equation. Have you adjusted the valves?

By the way, you don't have "pilot jets" that are adjustable. Your pilot AIR jets are in the intakes of the carbs and should be installed snuggly. Your pilot FUEL jets are in the bottom of the carb, next to the main jet. They are covered by the rubber plug and should also be installed snuggly. What you are likely calling a pilot jet is your "IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENT SCREW". I have found it best to start with it three full turns out from lightly seated. When the bike is warmed up and off "choke", you should adjust the mixture screws for highest idle speed (it won't be much of a differece, but it's there). They might end up back at 2.5 turns out, but the richer mixture of having them three turns out will help start the bike the first time.

.

[tom203]

Another sick 650? I didn't think they made that many! Anyway when you said new parts, did you mean new jets too ,or just o-rings and gaskets? The correct starting procedure is (once you know you have fuel in bowls); acitivate "choke" fully. NO throttle input allowed, press starter button- should catch and rpms will shoot up till you fiddle with "choke". Mine will start and idle OK with no filter element.
Have you been to Basscliff's site to see where all the hoses go? Get rid of starting fluid- it's told you all you need to know.

[turkeyroll60]

Just a suggestion if it hasn't been mentioned yet would be to make sure your Floats are properly adjusted. My 82 450 was doing that exact same thing and I set the floats to let more fuel in and now it idled fine and throttle revs nice but now I'm having other issues. My carbswere probably not touched for at least 20 years and all those internal were sticky when I opened them up. After cleaning I really noticed how well the float pin fit and the floats had a little more play in them thus requiring the adjustments. Of course, once you adjust one thing you cause a sweet little chain reaction that keeps you coming back as I sm finding out. Good luck.

[Rligg87]

Steve - Yea I gotta make me a sig! And no i have not adjusted the valves, I have to look through the online manual to figure out how on this bike.

Tom - It has new jets, needle and seat, just about everything is new besides the slides and floats. And no i don't believe I've been to his website yet I'll have to check it out.

Turkey - I used a digital caliper to measure float height, and all of them are within the +/- 1mm of 22.4mm. Mine weren't actually that dirty when I went through them but I did it anyway

[tom203]

Steve - Yea I gotta make me a sig! And no i have not adjusted the valves, I have to look through the online manual to figure out how on this bike.

Tom - It has new jets, needle and seat, just about everything is new besides the slides and floats. And no i don't believe I've been to his website yet I'll have to check it out

Those new jets, etc., suzuki or out of some kit? The rebuild kits get poor ratings, so beware- hopefully you still got old ones lying around. All you usually need is new o-rings and gaskets after a thorough cleaning, Head to Basscliff's site and be amazed at his efforts!

[Rligg87]

That basscliff's sight is amazing!! I think I am going to wait until I get the dynojet kit, pods, and different exhaust until I mess with it again. I hate that airbox and I figure if I'm going to rejet it anyway I might as well wait to get it running until I have all the parts. I have time anyway I'm in MN