My gs1100L wont make it down the street. Please help.

[7981GS]

You could buy another head and gaskets.

Eric

[yoshisakan]

You could buy another head and gaskets.

Eric

I'm not sure how bad off my pistons are. I'm going to pull the head tomorrow and look. From what I could see peering in with a flash light, it didn't look good. I don't know if i'm going to need new pistons now or what. I'm really hoping they are usable.

[old_skool]

but I feel like I have a $1400 chunk of scrap metal

$1400??, is that what you paid for the bike? Where are you located? Those can be usually had a lot cheaper, especially a parts bike for an engine swap, might be the easiest way to go, then rebuild your engine at your leisure.
How about some pics when you get it apart, or for the whole bike even.

[ChicagoRob]

This really sucks for you dude. I feel your pain.

Purchasing a complete used head is still your best option, but if you want to take the valves out of your existing one, you'll need one of these and a 8" C clamp from Harbor Freight.

It's a piece of 1" ID PVC pipe about 3.5" tall with a 1.75 section cut out of it about 3/4" from the bottom. That's a thick fender washer glued to the top.



With the head off and valve buckets out, put the non-movable side of the c clamp on the bottom of the valve, put your homemade tool on the top of the valve and compress it with the clamp. That will expose the two semi-circular keys that hold the valve. You'll see how they work once you remove them. Remove these with a needlenose pliers and uncompress the c clamp. The valve should now slip out of the bottom. Be very careful when you compress it. Make sure that it can't slip off, otherwise things may go flying.

Installation is the reverse of above. The only trick I have for that is to put a tiny bit of grease on the inside of the keys to hold them in place while you uncompress the c clamp.

While this is out you'll want to change the 30 year old valve seals and have someone check out the valve guides because they could be damaged as well.

[yoshisakan]

This really sucks for you dude. I feel your pain.

Purchasing a complete used head is still your best option, but if you want to take the valves out of your existing one, you'll need one of these and a 8" C clamp from Harbor Freight.

It's a piece of 1" ID PVC pipe about 3.5" tall with a 1.75 section cut out of it about 3/4" from the bottom. That's a thick fender washer glued to the top.



With the head off and valve buckets out, put the non-movable side of the c clamp on the bottom of the valve, put your homemade tool on the top of the valve and compress it with the clamp. That will expose the two semi-circular keys that hold the valve. You'll see how they work once you remove them. Remove these with a needlenose pliers and uncompress the c clamp. The valve should now slip out of the bottom. Be very careful when you compress it. Make sure that it can't slip off, otherwise things may go flying.

Installation is the reverse of above. The only trick I have for that is to put a tiny bit of grease on the inside of the keys to hold them in place while you uncompress the c clamp.

While this is out you'll want to change the 30 year old valve seals and have someone check out the valve guides because they could be damaged as well.

Thanks Rob. Today I'm going to work on removing all the valves. Do you know where to buy exhaust valves without paying a fortune?

I paid $900 for the bike, but I have already put a lot of time and money into it.

[MisterCinders]

I'd replace those bent valves by swapping out the head or picking up new valves. Trying to straighten out bent valves for reuse seems treacherous.

Looks like new exhaust valves for your bike are about $40 each from Z1.

Where are you located? I have a second head for my 8-valve 750. The valves may be the same as yours. If the parts can swap, my spares are straight and in pretty good shape. You might need to do some work to fit them your valve seats and will definitely need to lap them, at least.

[old_skool]

I paid $900 for the bike, but I have already put a lot of time and money into it.

That sounds a little better, I wouldn't be worried about what you invest in your bike within reason, most of us will never get out what we paid and put into our bikes if you add up all the $$ and labor spent, a lot of what is done is replacing 30 year old components which add little value but more reliability. That's why I try not to sink my own money into a build/restore but money from other parts bikes, it's still money gone, but I feel a little better about it should I have to get rid of it. Take your time, and hopefully you've got the bad luck behind you for awhile, and once you get the head done and any tank damage handled, maybe you can concentrate on getting it to a running condition so maybe you can enjoy riding during some of it's build process. Wish all the luck!!

[yoshisakan]

I'd replace those bent valves by swapping out the head or picking up new valves. Trying to straighten out bent valves for reuse seems treacherous.

Looks like new exhaust valves for your bike are about $40 each from Z1.

Where are you located? I have a second head for my 8-valve 750. The valves may be the same as yours. If the parts can swap, my spares are straight and in pretty good shape. You might need to do some work to fit them your valve seats and will definitely need to lap them, at least.

That would be awesome if they are the same. I am in Lakewood, Ohio (44107) I read all about reseating and lapping valves last night. I watched some youtube videos and it seems like its within my capability. I'm planning to do this to all of my valves. I guess I might as well check out my valve bucket clearance and get some new shims while i'm at it.

[old_skool]

Lakewood?...Damn, your a neighbor. Grew up on the west side of Cleveland, hung out a lot in Lakewood. Depending on what your doing this weekend, maybe I can stop by, not sure how much help at this junction I can be, but pm me, let me know, I think it might be ok riding weather on Sunday to swing by.

[Dave8338]

I guess I might as well check out my valve bucket clearance and get some new shims while i'm at it.

Best time/money you'll spend on the bike.

[yoshisakan]

Lakewood?...Damn, your a neighbor. Grew up on the west side of Cleveland, hung out a lot in Lakewood. Depending on what your doing this weekend, maybe I can stop by, not sure how much help at this junction I can be, but pm me, let me know, I think it might be ok riding weather on Sunday to swing by.

Sunday I'll probably be working in the garage. I'm going to get some sand for my sand blaster and then im going to blast the outside of the cylinder head and block, then wet sand/polish them. I'll be painting the gas tank and side covers while i'm at it. Since this has turned into a full fledged project, I might as well make it look awesome while i'm at it.

[old_skool]

Sunday I'll probably be working in the garage. I'm going to get some sand for my sand blaster and then im going to blast the outside of the cylinder head and block, then wet sand/polish them. I'll be painting the gas tank and side covers while i'm at it. Since this has turned into a full fledged project, I might as well make it look awesome while i'm at it.

I try to save the full fledged projects for winter, thats when the frame off will start, frame will be blasted and sent out for powder coating, exhaust will get ceramic coated, powder coat a lot of little items, might even make an entire new harness, basically, give the bike a new lease on life for many years to come, I love the 1100 shaft motor, good overall bike, you'll love it when it's together again for real riding, still have to do something about my seat though, the L seat shoves you on top of the tank, I need a bout 2-3" more room, I'll probably mod an original L seat pan. I'll show some of the mods I've done already, you can decide if they're helpful or learn from my mistakes

[MisterCinders]

That would be awesome if they are the same. I am in Lakewood, Ohio (44107) I read all about reseating and lapping valves last night. I watched some youtube videos and it seems like its within my capability. I'm planning to do this to all of my valves. I guess I might as well check out my valve bucket clearance and get some new shims while i'm at it.

Once you pull the valves and reinstall them and/or new valves, you HAVE to check and adjust the clearances when you put her back together.

What diameter are your exhaust and intake valve ends/flutes? Z1 lists two different sizes (24.5mm and 25mm IIRC). I can measure mine to see if they are the same size.

PM me an address, and I can send them out if they match.

[ChicagoRob]

Thanks Rob. Today I'm going to work on removing all the valves. Do you know where to buy exhaust valves without paying a fortune?

I paid $900 for the bike, but I have already put a lot of time and money into it.

Have you tried the parts wanted forum yet? Someone may have an old head around that they are willing to part out. You can use any oem parts site to check for compatibility by getting your part number then comparing that part number against the donor bike.

[old_skool]

Valve, intake
12911-49020

valve, exhaust
12912-49020