Trouble Starting

[wally]

Cinders, as I mentioned before, my 450ST has the exact same petcock. I struggled to get mine primed aftern cleaning the carbs, but they filled eventually.

[MisterCinders]

Cinders, as I mentioned before, my 450ST has the exact same petcock. I struggled to get mine primed aftern cleaning the carbs, but they filled eventually.

How do you prime them with that part? Is it the brass screw?

[wally]

Well, I had stripped and cleaned the carbs, tank and petcock, so they were all bone dry.

Reinstalled them all and literally just cranked starter and throttled it every so often. Got to a point where I thought I had stuffed something up somewhere, but then after a few minutes she fired right up!

Maybe not the correct way, but it worked.

[MisterCinders]

Well, I had stripped and cleaned the carbs, tank and petcock, so they were all bone dry.

Reinstalled them all and literally just cranked starter and throttled it every so often. Got to a point where I thought I had stuffed something up somewhere, but then after a few minutes she fired right up!

Maybe not the correct way, but it worked.

I'd be worried about so much draw on the battery needed just to initially fill the bowls when everyone else just flips the tap. v0v

I also run a longer line from my tank with the vacuum line plugged when testing things in the garage, synching carbs, etc. That would require two long lines with that set up, or a fully independent auxiliary fuel tank.

[wally]

Exactly - there are surely better (and correct ways) of doing it. Battery was fully charged up with battery tender.

Worked for me, but surely probably not the correct way...

[Soyanarchisto]

Sucking on the vacuum hose did the trick. At least temporarily. She ran for a while but still acted fuel starved. Ran long enough to reveal some oil leaks as well. I think I am gonna take everything down and repair/clean it.

Thanks for the advice guys!

[Soyanarchisto]

Also, I'm looking at the boots on your airbox where they attach to the rear of the carb and they appear to have been cut.
Are they? If so, you wont have the correct resistance through the air-filter.
You'll need to seal it.
Hope that helps.

Thanks for pointing out the above. Whilst checking out BikeCliff's megawelcome (thanks for that!) I see that a common thing that needs to be done is replacement of the 'intake boots.' When I go to the OEM fiche I dont see these boots listed. I assumed that these connect the airbox to the carbs, no?

[MisterCinders]

Thanks for pointing out the above. Whilst checking out BikeCliff's megawelcome (thanks for that!) I see that a common thing that needs to be done is replacement of the 'intake boots.' When I go to the OEM fiche I dont see these boots listed. I assumed that these connect the airbox to the carbs, no?

Intake boots connect your carbs to the cylinder head. They have o-rings that shrivel up, and are made of rubber that dries out after a few decades. So a new-to-you GS almost certainly needs new intake o-rings and possibly intake boots.

Your pic showed a big gash in the air-box boot. That's also not good, adds extra air to your mix, etc.

[Soyanarchisto]

Gotcha. I will look into that airbox issue. Thanks again!

[Soyanarchisto]

Your pic showed a big gash in the air-box boot. That's also not good, adds extra air to your mix, etc.

I thought I would follow-up on this statement. Turns out there is a sleeve inside the airbox boot that when the spring clip is tightened it seals the carb and airbox body.