Ah...I have been using a heat gun, I will try using a propane torch - thought that might be overkill, but may be the key!
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Heat guns don't have enough oomph...
A plumbers torch is handy to have for these types of things. Just be prepared to put out any fires you may start... I keep a fire extingusher (or bucket of water) close by when I'm using mine. Course, I'm a klutz...
Put the carb in a vise & locally heat the body section up adjacent to the screw, not the screw itself. Make sure you get it good & hot - aluminum doesn't turn red as it gets hot so don't wait for that
. Remove the heat & quickly (while it's hot) try to turn the screw head.
Be patient, it may require several rounds of PB & heat.Comment
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Had some time late last week to get to it...
The screw can turn clockwise w/ heat, but stops at the point it has been, and looks like the threads might be a bit boogered around there so I think that's the smoking gun.
Saying WTH...I put the carbs on the bike and she fired up and idled fine. I think I'm close enough, but once I get the brake lines hooked back up I can take it for a spin to see what tuning lies ahead. I suppose if its gonna be an issue, we can chase the threads above the screw, or wait until I tear down the carbs in the winter and give them a through once-over.
Thanks again for your help! (for now lol...)Comment
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Just for reference, hikermikem confirmed that the tap size is m6x0.5.Comment
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Looks like the same problem I had while cleaning a customers carbs. I used my impact driver. Gently tapping on the driver slowly backed the screw out. I had tried every other method known to man, I'm sure. All I can say is "it worked".
It's worth a try.Comment
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I tried the impact driver on mine, but it was stuck so bad that I started worrying that I would break the casting of the carb body from hitting the driver so hard. I did have it supported on a couple blocks of wood to evenly take the stress. Good luck!Comment
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