Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Engine takes a long time to settle

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    If I were you I'd pull the carbs back off and replace all the internal o-rings, and the O-rings on the intake boots. Set the mixture screws to 2.5 - 3 turns open. Install everything back together and make sure all the band clamps are properly sealed, as well as the airbox lid.

    Get the bike running again and perform a vacuum sync. Do all that and I'll bet you a beer the problem is gone.

    Trying to diagnose running problems on a bike that hasn't been properly maintained is a frustrating exercise.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      If I were you I'd pull the carbs back off and replace all the internal o-rings, and the O-rings on the intake boots. Set the mixture screws to 2.5 - 3 turns open. Install everything back together and make sure all the band clamps are properly sealed, as well as the airbox lid.

      Get the bike running again and perform a vacuum sync. Do all that and I'll bet you a beer the problem is gone.

      Trying to diagnose running problems on a bike that hasn't been properly maintained is a frustrating exercise.
      Ya. I personally know a lot about these frustrations. When I started it wouldn't consistently fire on all cyclinders, had a rusted internal tank, cam shaft tensioner didn't work, 6 of 8 values had almost no clearance and it didn't turn over when you hit the start button. Now on to this issue...

      I have to fix this issue, then the charging components and (with some luck) it should be ready to commute.

      Comment


        #18
        I only havea twin but if I have my idle mixture screws too far out then I get this behavior after she warms up.. Once I corrected the screws ( This is after all the maintenance suggested in the thread to ensure no vacuum leaks) The bike settles in RPM as she is supposed to. Not sure if you idle mixture screw controls fule like mine does.. If it controls air then it would be the opposite of having the screws too far in I believe..

        Another symptom mine had from the screws was the inability to use the choke. Any attempt to open the choke killed the bike. Now I can use the choke as designed..

        Comment


          #19
          Fixed it. Took carbs off again. Checked all connections. Examined rings. Did not replace rings. Made some minor changes to boots. Increased mixture screw from 2 to 3 turns out and covered the previously open (whoops) hose connection that ran to airbox from engine breather. Runs great now. Thanks all!

          Comment

          Working...
          X