cracking and popping from the exhaust.

[gk45011]

83 450L. Jetted upthe mains from the stock 115 to a 122.5. starts well, idles well. but when revved it has a pop and crack on decel.

I am far from the carb guru here. this means I am still lean right? Should i jump to 125 and keep going up in gradual increments until the popping is gone?

i am trying to get the engine running right before putting tires on or any other money into it. I understand the plug chop theory *but I don't think I'm close enough to chop). running it and doing the chop would be for adjustments further down the road when the jetting is closer? It is impossible for me to run it and chop the plugs with a flat tire and half puled apart as it is.

Any help appreciated. Cheap pods, stock exhaust. Am I going in the right direction? I know the pod debate has been raging on every site since the beginning of time. I just can't find the specific answer to my question, or i don't fully understand enough yet, or both.

Thanks,

[Guest]

Check your exhaust for any loose connections as well, if it can suck in air that is cooler then the exhaust that will make it pop and crack as well.

[gk45011]

Exhaust is sound. The idle is still slow to return. it is more like small little backfires and cracking. not so much and exhaust issue that i can tell.

So I need to jet up?? does this sound like it is running lean? I have a video but can't for the life of me get it from my phone to anywhere to host it.

Gary

[Guest]

Mine pops on decel but I'm way too rich... I have 137.5 mains in there though

If it's not boggy and slow to return I'd suspect lean but hard to tell without knowing what colour your plugs are.

If you've only touched your mains and haven't touched pilots or needles, then unless you're holding it at WOT the issue is not the mains...

Cheap pods typically mean no oiling... first thing I'd do is wind your mixture screws out to something like 3 turns, raise your needles a bit, and see what that does.

But again you won't truly know unless you look at the plug colours.

Oh, when you rev, is it quick to rev or boggy? If it's quick, most likely lean, if it's boggy, most likely rich...

Quick edit:

then unless you're holding it at WOT the issue is not the mains...

Let me rephrase... on CV carbs all circuits run through the mains so the mains can potentially have an impact on the pilot and needle circuits as well... typically with plug chops you would tune the mains first, then needles, then pilots... in your case with no chops it's going to be difficult...

[gk45011]

It bogs for a split second then revs fine. I am going to pull the pods/carbds/intake boots again this week and make sure everything is tight with the intakes, and that the orings set correctly.

Has anyone ever used regular gasket material on these old intake boots? or gasket plus the o ring? I just want to make sure this seal is tight and that I am working my way out from the engine with a sound foundation.

Gary

[Toasty]

Check the exhaust for pin holes, if you have any then it'll pop on deceleration. Old leaky exhaust gaskets will do the same thing too.

[Guest]

If it bogs then my guess is rich... one problem with cheap pods is that they can sometimes actually be more restrictive than the stock intake system. Still, plug readings are the only way to be sure.

No idea on the gaskets, but as long as the O rings are good and the boots are nice and supple there shouldn't be any issues there. Are the boots new or old? Old ones can "appear" to be ok but still not seal properly...

[cableguy]

An idle that "hangs" points to an intake leak, so check your intake boots and make sure you fix that problem before you dol anything else with jets. It doesn't sound like you're too far off with what you've done so far, just don't go any further until it returns to idle immediately after the throttle closes.

[gk45011]

yeah I am kinda at a stand still til i pull the carbs again and double check the boots and seals. The boots "seemed" flexable and fine and the new seals were installed. I did not have the stainless hardwear for the intakes so I was forced to reuse the origional bolts.

I will pull these today or tomorrow hopefully and make a fastenal trip. I need 4 of the m6 1x20MM correct? maybe I didn't get them torqued enough. Maybe I missed something and need to order a set of intake boots. Does anyone have the cheapest connection on intake boot sites?

I was also curious if ANYONE made the intake boots with the vac tips. If I need to get new ones itwould make changes and synching so much easier than having to use the adaptors.

Thanks,

[Guest]

Not sure if the 83's are the same as the 82's, but my intake boots were $25 each from Boulevard Suzuki. Cheap as dirt for peace of mind on intake leaks I reckon

The sync port screws on the 82 are actually in the head, not the boots, so perhaps the 83's are different?

[Katarat]

If the exhaust is good and their are no intake leaks the its too lean on the pilot circuit. Whe you close the throttle youre back on that circuit, not the mains. Try richening at the mixture screw, if more then 4 turns out go up one size