Pods, Pipes, Panic! (Help! Your Bike has Pods)

I have a jet kit, I ordered from them about 2 years ago, in my 1979 GS 750E. I had re-jetted when I put generic ebay pods on my bike, but when one popped off and blasted me in the leg at like 70mph, I decided to invest in some K&N pods. However, in doing so my bike would not run with the now increased air flow so I wasn't sure what to do next and I needed an answer fast so I found the 6 sigma kit on ebay. They asked me about my exact location and modifications and sent me a kit tailored to my bike and atmospheric conditions.

The kit had easy to follow instructions and told you where to set the needle with the "e-clip" and everything. However the installation was really easy for me since I have the VM carbs, depending on your carbs you may need to use the drill bit that comes with the kit.

One interesting note about that kit from them was that they even thought about different jets for the inner cylinders vs the outer cylinders which I found really interesting. I don't remember them proving an exact explanation but I believe it would be due to the fact that these engines are air-cooled so the inner cylinders can get hotter than the outer so they provide slightly bigger jets for the carbs for the inner 2 carburetors. I am not sure if that is a normal practice or not.

They even provided an alternate set of jet sizes in case the first ones weren't quite what you needed.

Hello i have a 81 450 with slip on jigh flow exhaust tips and pod filters i was looking at getting a jet kit from 6 sigma anyone bought from these guys wanted to know how there quality of the kits are

Ok so I'll try to ask smg about pilot and air screws settings when pods and 4/1...
In my '79 gs 550 (VM22 carbs), I had to put larger main jets, and raise the needles... ok for them.
About pilot (fuel) and air screws, Do I have to keep the standard settings or adjust them to increase the air / fuel flow when idling to avoid dying at idle?
I mean, standard setting to have the good air / fuel setting is air screw -1.5 turn / fuel screw -5/8 turn. Do I have to put for example a similar setting (but with more amount of air / fuel) like air screw -3 turns / fuel screw -1.25 turn?

This is for pods and 4/1 exhaust...

thanks!

[Big T]

Guys, this is an informational stickie

You should read it and post up your problems in the forum below, not here

I bought a pair of Uni double foam filters and a 6-Sigma jet kit. They supplied two sizes of main jets, pilot jets, a couple of drill bits in case I wanted to do wilder mods (which the instructions warn repeatedly can cause low speed/throttle drivability problems and should only be performed for racing purposes), and several shims for the fuel needles, as well as a pretty good set of instructions. The kit was reasonably priced ($56 shipped for a two carb kit) and they sent me an email asking about any mods and normal riding elevation.

SoHum, let me know how the jets work. Contemplating a set, but with our really crappy exchange rate it is a bit pricey!

thanx!

Hi everybody
Sorry for diusturbing everyone, with my "case"...
I have a GS 550 E 1979, with VM22SS carbs, 4/1 with smg like a free megaphone exhaust, and a grid into the airbox....
Historically, I puted 110 mains and had a "lean" behaviour... I did yesterday plug chops at WOT and half throttle (to see about the needle position), my spark plugs were very.... white. I tested 120 mains, but I could not go up 3000 rpm.... I am putting 115 mains now, with the clip on the 3rd position. I will try it tonight or tomorrow. I am so surprised that, with a free 4/1 exhaust, and a grid into the airbox, that I have to increase the size of mains about 40 / 45%!!! I think a grid into the airbox is a good solution to increase performance.

http://imagesia.com/20150323-225342_vxi0

Referencing this link:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carbspec_float_height.html

Your bike came with 112.5 mains and 42.5 pilots.

According to this link:

http://motorcycles.wikia.com/wiki/Rejetting

You need 127.5 main jets and 47.5 pilots.

Raise your needles about a mm, as per the WAG method(WAG - wild-@$$ guess).

[duaneage]

Do high speed plug chops and read them. No one can tell you what to do from riding descriptions.

i need to pull one and check..

[blowerbike]

so you have adjustable needles for sure?

I have an 81 GS750e with large K&N pods...just got this and got it running....my question is at part throttle in 4th gear and highly noticeable in 5th part throttle cruising seams to be surging...idles great and has good power mid range but top end needs more power..assuming jetting will fix that..what size do you recommend..it has a baffled vance and hines 4 into 1 with the stock Mikuni CVs...any recommendations on needle height?

Off the subject, saw this pop up in the "new posts". What happened to the OP "MisterCinders"? I remember quite well when he was a regular on the site, now it says he is a guest

Hello folks!

I was purged for inactivity, but (like MacArthur) have returned. Been playing with other toys that distracted me from the bike.

Like this:



and this:

[Rob S.]

Keep us informed.

Well, due to having bought a bike with no airbox, I decided to just try pods out. I bought a pair of Uni double foam filters and a 6-Sigma jet kit. They supplied two sizes of main jets, pilot jets, a couple of drill bits in case I wanted to do wilder mods (which the instructions warn repeatedly can cause low speed/throttle drivability problems and should only be performed for racing purposes), and several shims for the fuel needles, as well as a pretty good set of instructions. The kit was reasonably priced ($56 shipped for a two carb kit) and they sent me an email asking about any mods and normal riding elevation. Then I went and bought aftermarket mufflers afterwards, like an idiot, but they're supposed to be baffled and all that so hopefully the main jets and supplied extra shims will be enough. I'm almost done putting the bike back together, so hopefully in a couple of weeks I will be able to comment on how it runs with these- I bought the thick foam pods hoping they would be less finnicky than the screen and cotton style.

Popping and banging on the overun /deceleration? Air being sucked into exhaust; remove exhaust, gouge out and discard exhaust gasket in exhaust port and fit new ones, refit the down pipes ensuring exhaust clamp is level and pulling up evenly; though not so tight as to prevent you moving them to fit silencer; smear exhaust gasket/cement around down pipes where they enter the collector box/silencer and fit, hanging the silencer on the mounting bolt: starting at the exhaust manifold, tighten the 8 bolts securing the down pipe clamps, next tighten the bolt(s) securing the down pipes to silencer; the nut/bolt mounting the rear footpeg and silencer is the last to be tightened:
When i remove a cylinder head i always take the opportunity to remove seized and damaged exhaust bolts, i'm lucky in as much that being a welder/steelworker i have ready access to oxy-acetylene, for warming(heating) aluminium to free off seized bolts; many times grinding a bolt to a point and welding it onto the top of the broken bolt/stud will cause enough shrinkage to enable easy removal:
I ALWAYS fit stainless steel studs into the head exhaust ports, coated in copper slip anti seize grease, and nuts onto these, my reasoning being, 1. You know that all the thread in the head is taking load, as opposed to a bolt that shares the load as more screws in: 2 you can also fit dual sizes studs should the bolt hole already be damaged 3 as the studs have been coated in copper slip should they require removal it should not present a problem of any description: stainless steel is not of particularly high tensile strength but having said that i have not encountered any problems thus far.
Hope it all goes well for you; cheers mate Robbie