Finally got my carbs done

[slyone]

I've only had this bike a month but it seems like years. I couldn't have done it without all the support & wisdom from all of you! weather's turning quickly, just waiting on seals for the tensioner tutorial Friday and all those pita oil leaks will be done at last and a pr.of Shinko 230's shipped today. Suzuki dealer wants $28.00 ea. to mount,balance & stems which seems not to bad since I don't have the hardware or the tools..just the ambition!
I set the pilot fuel jets to the factory mark of 1 1/8 from seated on 3 carbs & 1.0 on the last. I found the floats on carbs 1, 2 & 4 way low 4 was not even either and last time I figured why check? LOL.. also got the good "T" and transfer tubes from Z1, since the originals "did start leaking" as originally mentioned before..as well as new kits from Z1 to use "new" gaskets, needles & seats as well as pilot jet screws which I like better than the others. So hopefully I should be good to go next spring! Oh yea, I still need to figure out where to mount my "Z1 sticker"

[slyone]

Ha Thanks!

[loud et]

Well sorted carbs make one feel good. And yours look great to boot!
Fine job.

[GateKeeper]

Oh yea, I still need to figure out where to mount my "Z1 sticker"

on the bike of course...





The carbs look really good.....

[Guest]

I gotta try painting carbs. They look so good when they're done. But it also looks like a lot of tedious taping ect..

[tkent02]

The carburetors look nice, but the fuel screws should be somewhere around 5/8 - 3/4 from seated, and the airscrews about double that. And don't really seat the screws, look in though the bores and when the tiny little tip sticks up into the bore, then just a tiny increase in screw tightness, you are there..

If you actually seat it the tip is likely to stick in the port and break off, plugging the fuel passage.

You will of course fine tune the screws from there, this is just an initial setting.

You may have some or all of the tips broken off already, it's very common on VM carbs.
This would explain the oddball screw settings, those are NOT factory fuel screw settings.

[slyone]

The carburetors look nice, but the fuel screws should be somewhere around 5/8 - 3/4 from seated, and the airscrews about double that. And don't really seat the screws, look in though the bores and when the tiny little tip sticks up into the bore, then just a tiny increase in screw tightness, you are there..

If you actually seat it the tip is likely to stick in the port and break off, plugging the fuel passage.

You will of course fine tune the screws from there, this is just an initial setting.

You may have some or all of the tips broken off already, it's very common on VM carbs.
This would explain the oddball screw settings, those are NOT factory fuel screw settings.

i had a tip break last week..pita, & the tips on others were not far behind so I opted to renew them. If I follow the factory punch marks, #4 is either at 1/2 turn out or 1 full turn out and the others at 5/8 or 1 1/8. I thought that 1/2 turn #4 prolly be too lean? So I opened them up another 1/2 turn to stay on "mark"?
I could try 1/2 to 5/8 out and stay on mark or 3/4 out? It's just a real pita to fuss with when mounted! I got 'em sittin on the bench now though...cheers!

I gotta try painting carbs. They look so good when they're done. But it also looks like a lot of tedious taping ect..

well actually not, I used some 3/4" & 2" blue stuff masking tape sittin around with a pr.of scissors. Prolly took 15 min. each. Then I'd spray 'em 1 at a time and then pop 'em in the over on low in a foil covered cookie sheet to dry between coats. Painting took an afternoon to complete

[Guest]

No doubt about it, they look great!

[slyone]

Thanks!....but they gotta work too just not look purdy Fired it up but #4 isn't fire very much Not really sure what's going on,or not? It had been hittin all cyl. then right before I took it apart (for external gas leaks from homemade bowl gaskets & maybe fuel rails/tubes) I ran it for a few minutes with air box removed and right before I shut it down I believe it started runnin like it dropped a cyl... I tried swapping plugs and opening up pilot fuel jets to 1 full turn out-no difference, I'm puzzled? Thinking of pulling carbs and looking into #4 carb? I did get the cam chain resealed up today though

[Guest]

Thanks!....but they gotta work too just not look purdy Fired it up but #4 isn't fire very much Not really sure what's going on,or not? It had been hittin all cyl. then right before I took it apart (for external gas leaks from homemade bowl gaskets & maybe fuel rails/tubes) I ran it for a few minutes with air box removed and right before I shut it down I believe it started runnin like it dropped a cyl... I tried swapping plugs and opening up pilot fuel jets to 1 full turn out-no difference, I'm puzzled? Thinking of pulling carbs and looking into #4 carb? I did get the cam chain resealed up today though

Are you getting spark to No. 4?

[Guest]

Did I send this to you before?
Perhaps you're overlooking something, or maybe it's just a matter of getting the settings right. Either way you may want to review it.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

[slyone]

Are you getting spark to No. 4?

just checked and yes I do have spark. wonder if the float adj. messed up? I did raise float levels on #1 & #2, #3 was OK and I waited for my son to put #4 together for the experience when he got home from work and he raised and leveled float but I stood there and watched..? Strange? At this point, guess I better remove and reinspect...

[Steve]

I did raise float levels on #1 & #2, ...

When you "raised the float level", did you set them to a higher number on your scale or lower?

Remember, you are setting them with the carbs upside down, so setting to a larger number is actually LOWERING the floats when you turn them back to right side UP.

.

[slyone]

They were at like 28mm or there abouts(didn't take exact previous measurements so I bent the tab up while carbs are upside down so I raised the level. I just pulled carbs then bowl drain screws which seemed about the same. I did a quick visual and all seems fine. Checked my fuel pilot, looked good

[Guest]

Just a note, LOTS of times after rebuild carbs I put them on and bingo a cylinder isn't firing. I bring out my rubber mallet and proceed to smack the misbehaving carb and bingo the cylinder starts firing. Lots of times the float needle will stick and just needs a nudge.