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    #2 cold exhaust

    Posting because its been a long day and I'm too tired to keep searching threads. If this is something you see a lot and I was just too blind to see it I apologize. This is half looking for help, and half jotting down my thoughts before I forget them.

    About 5 or 6 years ago I got a free 81 gs550t and a box o parts. I never really had the patience to get it going. Recently I found that some of my problems were caused because I was using the wrong set of carbs:



    After getting the appropriate parts, and some fresh O rings, weatherstripping on the airbox, as well as adjusting my valves I was ready to rock! And it fired right up. Awesome!
    I spent sunday trying to get it to idle properly, it would stay high after I reved the engine. It seems to really like 2000 rpms. I suspected a lean condition caused by the airbox, the boots are fresh but the box itself is a bit warped in the middle so #2 and #3 don't slide on all the way. I was able to push the center of the airbox out a bit by taking off the air filter and pushing on the inside with a wooden dowel. Sloppy but it worked enough to tighten down the clamps. After a day of slowly backing out the mixture screws to no avail I realized the exhaust pipes from 2 and 4 were cold. When I checked the plugs 1 and 3 were black, 2 and 4 were wet.

    Today I got a new battery (had been jumping it from a golfcart), and cleaned the connections to the coil for 1 and 4. (1 being the clutch side 4 being the throttle side just so I'm clear) I snipped the wires back and put on some fresh caps with a little dialectric. Idle was a little quicker to go up and come down, but not great. 4 was getting hot and the plug was a brown color. So I repeated the process for the 2/3 coil. No dice. My box o parts included 2 coils so I swapped one in. Still nothing. Tried swapping the plug with one from a cylinder that worked just for laughs at the end of the day but that didn't work either.

    So here I am coming up with a plan of attack for tomorrow night.
    -I checked the plugs for spark previously and they all work but I figure replace em anyways because they are cheap.
    -I read that a fouled #2 can be caused by a bad petcock. I cleaned mine recently, it gives me gas when I want it, and stops when I don't, but that's another thing I'll give a closer look tomorrow.
    -I cleaned all my grounds months ago, probably worth a double check.
    -Timing? I know nothing about it, should do something about that.
    -I had been focusing on fixing a lean mixture, maybe its been rich all along.

    Some more maybe relevant stuff:
    -I suspected that #4 isn't firing 100% of the time; when I put my hand behind the exhaust on that side I can feel it stutter occasionally where as the pipe for 1 and 2 is steady.
    -Haven't checked the voltage to the coils yet, I assumed that low voltage would cause both cylinders on the coil to not fire rather than just one... another thing on the to do.
    -I did not vaccum sync the carbs, just visually as best I could.
    -I don't have a gauge for a proper compression check but it gave a decent push when I put my thumb over the spark plug hole.
    -I've seen the megawelcome/bikecliff website but was focused on carb stuff. I should probably read up on electrical now.
    -Bike isn't very roadworthy at the moment, no rear brake and the clutch doesn't work. (think its just stuck from sitting so long) so I'm not sure if this stuff changes under a load.

    #2
    There's nothing going to be EZ about dealing with a bike freebee and a box of parts. You likely have multiple problems in electrical and fuel systems- these must be ruled out methodically, and that's why Basscliff's megawelcome is must reading. Since it "fired right up", be happy and encouraged to sort out it's problems. The electrical is indeed a good jump off point- you need decent voltage to get decent firing spark plugs.
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      I would FIRST make sure that the carbs you have are for that bike. a box o parts doesn't mean anything is correct.

      that said, you can find out what size JETS are SUPPOSED to be in the bike , then compare.

      You need nice fat blue spark on all plugs. start there first, then go to the carbs.

      If you dipped them, and replaced the oriings in the carbs AND the intake flanges , then you have a start.

      i never assume anything , you said you dipped them but maybe need to dip them again with berrymans??? and there is more than just taking them off and dunking them..
      AL PARTS NEED TO BE REMOVED or you are wasting yourtime.
      Last edited by Guest; 04-03-2013, 07:01 AM. Reason: i speled rong

      Comment


        #4
        Since 1-4 and 2-3 are on separate coils, it appears they are working, but that doesn't tell anything about the spark plug wires. You need to adjust your vales first, and then run a compression check. If is within specifications, than you know it can run. Your warped air box may be a real problem. You might want to take it apart and see if you can straighten it out with a heat gun or find another air box. Since you have just bench synced the carbs, a vacuum sync is in order after the other stuff is taken care of. I'm guessing this manual covers your bike. http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/..._77-82_all.pdf
        '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

        Comment


          #5
          Greetings and Salutations!!

          Hi Mr. ezmack,

          It seems I have not greeted you properly. Here's your "mega-welcome". It contains a couple of maintenance lists that are mandatory. Without properly addressing every item on the lists it is almost impossible to troubleshoot and diagnose a 30 year old bike that hasn't run for who-knows-how-long. Skipping steps and taking shortcuts will be frustrating at best and dangerous at worst. Please enjoy exploring the links below.

          If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, diagrams, "how-to" guides, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.

          Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

          I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

          If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

          Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



          Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

          Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

          Thank you for your indulgence,

          BassCliff

          Comment


            #6
            Small update, I did some things but still not running on #2:

            Got some fresh plugs, the old ones sparked fine but you never know. I also swapped the other parts coil in. They appear to be OEM and still had price tags on them. The wires looked much more fresh/clean than the existing ones which look like they came with the bike.
            I was getting 11.4v at the coils so I did the coil relay mod. Its up to 11.9v vs the 12.6/7v across the battery. Still cold on #2 but hey at least I'll have peace of mind knowing all of this is fresh, getting pretty handy with a soldering iron too.

            Guess its time to double check my work on the carb. All out of bike money for this week but I think I'll get a new petcock to go with the tank I have coming in and eliminate that as a possibility as well. I'll try the heatgun-airbox thing too since that's free and maybe I can get a decent seal. Considering just replacing this when I have money again. Found a friend with a compression tester so I'll give that a whirl. I'd be real surprised if that's out of spec based on my finger test but you never know. Hoping said friend also has a carb sync tool so I can be sure that's balanced.

            Tried dropping it into first a few times to break the clutch free without any luck, another cheap thing I can disassemble while I wait for payday. Hopefully my brake parts show up in the meantime as well.

            Comment


              #7
              ezmack, per cold cylinder and carb, MY Mistake (which I willl never tire of repeating) was that I didn't physically pull the jets at the CV vacuum throttle needle and clean out the tiny holes the first time, though I did much else ok. The cylinder would sort of run sometimes or eventually when the choke was on ( a totally different fuel circuit, so of course it would)...but one cylinder was definitely cold when the bike should have been running. Bad for the bike! Use a fan when running an out-of-tune non-moving bike...
              I used a welding tip cleaner and q-tips very carefully... this goes for all the passages too. I couldn't find "carb dip" and don't know if that would work as well, but squirting fancy aerosol petro-distillates into holes was a waste of time except to flush. OvenCleaner and PaintRemover do actually soften stuff as does alcohol, in some instances. Flush well with petro-distillates.....I used a little bit of tube tapered to fit holes and blew through to compare passages carb to carb...

              Comment


                #8
                I ended up pulling all the jets needles cvs everything, from one carb and putting them into another. It was an ordeal. Carb dip aerosol wire brush welding cleaners, I went all out. But ill check those parts you mentioned, as that does sound similar

                Comment


                  #9
                  Girlfriend wants me spending time with her so I didn't do much.

                  Pulled the carbs to run a heatgun on the airbox; airbox fits much better now, carb pops in easier as well. Noticed the bowl on #2 was moist with gas and there was a screw to the bowl backed out. Ran a wire through the jets and blew some air through the passages, everything seems normal.

                  Took the clutch plates out and replaced them with my spares as they were gunked up, I can hand turn the wheel with it in first now so that's good. Think I'll clean and re-install the gunked up plates because the metal seemed sound and one of the spares was a bit scored. Thinking the cable might be stretched because it still seems like its not fully letting go.

                  Still nothing on 2 though. I probably missed something during reassembly if that float bowl screw is any indication. I'll figure it out soon enough.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Double checking my intake boots with some starter fluid I noticed the screws were only finger tight. Unfortunately didn't fix my problem. Checked the valve timing and it was good, forgot my feeler gauges so I couldn't check clearances. I got them in spec before the bike was running but I'd still like to verify now that it is running.
                    Tried a compression test but I think I was doing something wrong as all of my readings were super low. All cylinders were between 55-65 which I would think is too low for the bike to run. The manual said 90-120. I'll have to borrow the tool again and figure out how to do it right. On the plus side #2 seemed to be in the same ballpark as the cylinders that run.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ezmack View Post
                      Girlfriend wants me spending time with her so I didn't do much.
                      Been there, done that!
                      Now............. I don't have a girlfriend, her choice not mine.
                      sigpic
                      Steve
                      "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page."
                      _________________
                      '79 GS1000EN
                      '82 GS1100EZ

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Finally got it running on all cylinders, however I'm not positive which thing I did worked. I noticed the little rubber plug didn't fit as snug dry as it did once wet; so I put a thin layer of rtv on it and let it dry over night.

                        I also took the mixture screw all the way out to inspect that passage. The metal washer was bent. not even sure how that'd happen but I bent it back with some pliers.

                        Also switched the engine side boot with the one from 1. Since 1 still worked I'm assuming this wasn't it but I'd like to confirm since those boots seem to be 90% of the problems on here.

                        All in all, a good day. Though I think personally I'll amend that 'don't trust the previous owner' rule to include me last fall as I apparently missed a lot.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          That's good news!,ezmack! -progress is progress, whatever.

                          Comment

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