Big improvement with larger pilot jet on GS 1000 with pods

[John Kat]

I've been going around in circles trying to get my BS 32 CV carbs to run with pods on my GS 1000 XP.
The last issue that was really driving me crazy was a slight stumble coming off idle.
The idle ran perfectly and from 1/8 throttle to full throttle no problem but when I moved the throttle away from idle very smoothly as when you are driving in traffic the engine would hesitate.
Following GSR fellows advice, I tried enrichening the mixture with the idle mixture screw but the problem remained
In the end, I reread the very good article from Koolaid_kid about adjusting the idle on CV carbs and discovered that there is a "bypass outlet" just behind the "pilot outlet" that feeds the engine when coming off idle
When you look at a cut-away of the carb, you can see that the A/F ratio for the bypass outlet is controlled only by the pilot jet
In no time, I changed the existing size 40 pilot jets for a set of 47.5 jets I had.
I closed the idle mixture screw from 2,5 out to 1,5 turns out and BINGO no stumble anymore.
I only wish I had done this before despite the Dynojet kit's advice that the pilot jet doesn't need to be changed...
Who gives out the PhD's for CV carb tuning

[posplayr]

The standard setup for gs1100 16v with pods and 4:1pipe is (along with dj kit) to increase the pilot jets from 45 to 47.5.
This seems to apply whether using bs34 or bs36.
With a 4:2:1 pipe I went back to the 45 pilot.
Glad you have it sorted

[John Kat]

The standard setup for gs1100 16v with pods and 4:1pipe is (along with dj kit) to increase the pilot jets from 45 to 47.5.
This seems to apply whether using bs34 or bs36.
With a 4:2:1 pipe I went back to the 45 pilot.
Glad you have it sorted

I almost bought myself an A/F ratio meter like you did to sort it out
The issue is always the same: too rich or too lean? When you've never done this in your life it's not easy to diagnose the problem.
I've tuned a turbocharged car also but with a fully digital control unit, it's way easier to go back and forth with a few key strokes while keeping an eye on the AFR meter

[posplayr]

I almost bought myself an A/F ratio meter like you did to sort it out
The issue is always the same: too rich or too lean? When you've never done this in your life it's not easy to diagnose the problem.
I've tuned a turbocharged car also but with a fully digital control unit, it's way easier to go back and forth with a few key strokes while keeping an eye on the AFR meter

The further you get from the standard setups the more you need the AFR meter. It is still worth it if you want to get peak performance. No need to leave it on the bike, but getting it set up helped mine considerably,