What r these pics telling me?

[rustybronco]

thoughts?

Shoot us some wet and dry compression numbers.

What was the final result from this thread?

http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1844269#post1844269

[mvalenti]

Shoot us some wet and dry compression numbers.

What was the final result from this thread?
http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...69#post1844269

sadly I never finished... truthfully, i forgot about it... will try tonight, may be better that the valve cover is off and I can see that the valves are closed. never have done this, should I perform this with piston in tdc?

wet and dry, will do tonight, although it will be with a cold engine. I could warm it with a 100,000 BTU kerosene heater..... thoughts? (fuel tank removed for safety....)

[rustybronco]

No need to warm the engine up; cold is fine and yes, piston at tdc.

[mvalenti]

Cold and dry
1. 2. 3. 4.
95. 85. 70. 95

Cold wet (tbsp oil)
1. 2. 3. 4.
105. 120. 120. 130

Carbs are off, as is valve cover...

[rustybronco]

Valve lash have been adjusted; correct?

Leak down test indicates? (hint-hint)

By the compression numbers and taking into account the mileage, the engine looks tired... BUT it ran well in the recent future correct?

[mvalenti]

It did run well. Had a flat spot at a little over 1/2 throttle that i wanted to fix this season. I replaced some shims last yr, cant find the notes... I may have been off in my numbers, hope i can fix with shims.. At least get the season out of it.... Thinking on marvel mystery oil in the cylinders... While the shims get ordered...

[rustybronco]

Then adjust them and figure out why the #1 cylinder it running so rich.

Some sort of engine top end cleaner while you ride it instead of MMO?

[rustybronco]

Upper left plug... is it oil fouled or fuel that makes it look wet?

The bike still has electronic ignition correct?

Have you measured the plug cap to plug cap resistance on coils no 1~4 and 2~3?

What is the voltage going to each coil?

[mvalenti]

Will do, the bike only has a side stand and when on it tends to lean toward the rich cylinder, maybe partially to blame?

[rustybronco]

Partially yes, but not likely to matter very much if at all.

Float level high, leaking needle and seat, improper jet needle, cut o-ring, partially open or leaking enrichment plunger, cracked carb body (ask wallowgreen about that one), bad ignitor...

[mvalenti]

Plunger! I dont wven know her!!!
Ok ill recheck the float and needle. My pilot needle jet looks as it might be worn a bit..

[rustybronco]

.My pilot needle jet looks as it might be worn a bit..

Isn't the problem...

[mvalenti]

Probably right, i thought that i wouldnt get fine metering and possible overly t
rich circuit

[Guest]

The pilot fuel screws get that way by being seated too tightly. It squeezes in on the needle and widens the seat. If they stick up into the throat of the carburetor now when lightly seated, the seats are ruined. It's not disaster, but they will never meter correctly and close is the best you are going to get the adjustments. The seats that have been widened will need the fuel needle turned in more to approximate the adjustments of the good seats. It makes it kind of a crap shoot to get them near right. just play with them until the Air adjustment for highest idle is near the same number of turns out from lightly seated for all carburetors, and that will be about as good as it is going to get.

[mvalenti]

More pics for what its worth...





Seats look ugly...