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1100e running lean
				
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 Odd, my 750 came with MK 112s stock and when I installed the RC pipe and K&N filter it went lean real quick. Install some MK 117s and all was good, had a nice light to med tan color on the plugs. Now, it's lean again nothing inside was changed. I do know the popping is from the pipe at the mega phone/header connection, mine does it as well. Hmmm, maybe add some more oil to the filter.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
 1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
 2015 CAN AM RTS
 
 
 Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
 
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	 Katarat Katarat
 With the same setup as you on my 80 GS1100E, pipe & all, I run 115 Mikuni mains, adjustable needle in the middle slot, stock pilots 3 turns out, air box lid on. I had the same popping problem until I richened the mixture screws
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	 Crage Crage
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 Yes I will. Took it island camping with my wife and son. With the elavtion change the temp didn't go up at all. So I'm close. Azr is going to come over this week and we are going one up on the main and one up on the pilot. Plus put on his Lockhart oil cooler on my bike for insurance. Will keep you posted. Thanks for all the help and a special thanks to ghostrider.Originally posted by Crage View PostI sure you will update us with results soon Trevor . .
 TrevorNo signature :(
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 I think the needle is good.
 Try a 125 on the main to see if you can get some color on those plugs.
 What temp are you running?
 Good on the 47.5 pilot. No popping on decal? Should be 2.5 to 3 turns out on mixture screw.
 Lean is mean but it melts engines. 1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust. 1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
 1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
 
  
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 Mine is canadian so its not degrees. The gauge goes to 160 and I have hit as high as 150!!! Today though with the elevation change never went highr than 130 is I'm close.Originally posted by chef1366 View PostI think the needle is good.
 Try a 125 on the main to see if you can get some color on those plugs.
 What temp are you running?
 Good on the 47.5 pilot. No popping on decal? Should be 2.5 to 3 turns out on mixture screw.
 Lean is mean but it melts engines. No signature :( No signature :(
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	 koolaid_kid koolaid_kid
 I suspect you meant to say that it is not Fahrenheit but Celsius (or Centigrade). Still, 150C = 300F, which is quite warm. Mine used to get that high until I installed an oil cooler; then it dropped around 100F (38C).Originally posted by trevor View PostMine is canadian so its not degrees. The gauge goes to 160 and I have hit as high as 150!!! Today though with the elevation change never went highr than 130 is I'm close.
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 Lol..yes I did I'm on my cell phone. Azr and I are installing the oil cooler next week.Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostI suspect you meant to say that it is not Fahrenheit but Celsius (or Centigrade). Still, 150C = 300F, which is quite warm. Mine used to get that high until I installed an oil cooler; then it dropped around 100F (38C).No signature :(
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	 ptexotik ptexotik
 A stock engine shouldn't 'require' an additional cooling mechsm. (But they do look bitchin'!!). It's not like the suzuki engineers screwed up or anything. And you don't live anywhere hot. I would be concentrating on reducing 'natural' running temperature before installing cooler. Seems like just a band-aid. (?)Originally posted by trevor View PostLol..yes I did I'm on my cell phone. Azr and I are installing the oil cooler next week.
 Folks with way more knowledge than me can correct me, if wrong ?
 
 (Last yr riding down to Paso Robles inland ... I almost fell asleep it was so hot ... but stock engine ('83 1100) sat right on 210 mark (100C))
 Just my 2c
 
 ps I have one without (mentioned) and one with cooling doodad (extra brick on bike thingy) and notice no difference. (both stock engines ... ie no hot-rodding)
 good luck!Last edited by Guest; 06-29-2013, 10:28 AM.
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	 koolaid_kid koolaid_kid
 Not really a band-aid, the GS1100E were designed to have an oil cooler, they even have the connections to hook one up. They just were not sold with one. An 1150 oil cooler is a direct install.
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	 ptexotik ptexotik
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 That would be my concern continuing to ride on a lean condition because you "fixed it" with an oil cooler.Originally posted by ptexotik View PostA stock engine shouldn't 'require' an additional cooling mechsm. (But they do look bitchin'!!). It's not like the suzuki engineers screwed up or anything. And you don't live anywhere hot. I would be concentrating on reducing 'natural' running temperature before installing cooler. Seems like just a band-aid. (?)
 Folks with way more knowledge than me can correct me, if wrong ?
 
 (Last yr riding down to Paso Robles inland ... I almost fell asleep it was so hot ... but stock engine ('83 1100) sat right on 210 mark (100C))
 Just my 2c
 
 ps I have one without (mentioned) and one with cooling doodad (extra brick on bike thingy) and notice no difference. (both stock engines ... ie no hot-rodding)
 good luck!
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