Plug check, Lean?

[eil]

Duner, please consider putting your bike year and model in your signature. I know you mentioned in already in the thread, but this way you won't forget if you start a new thread.

Thanks everyone i will try your ideas. I have started looking at the boots online to buy. The big welcome thing made it sound like the rubber boots are like 28 bucks. my guess is they have risen in price sense that was made haha. The cheapest i found was $140 for the engine side with new clamps and $72 for airbox side with new clamps.

Those sound like typical prices if you're shopping on eBay or at a local dealer.

I went to boulevardsuzuki.com and four intake boots are $104.56. Four airbox boots are $44.20. Of course, shipping will run something like $20. Better, but still somewhat expensive. And necessary.

You don't need new clamps unless yours are torn, horribly bent, or the soft JIS screw heads are stripped. They do tend to stretch some, but you can shorten them by cutting about 3/8" off one end and drilling a new hole. Don't do this until you have the new boots, though. Rubber on new boots will be thicker, so you may not have to do anything to the existing clamps.

I have order all the orings and new fasterner from the cycle orings guy. As soon as it is all here i will try the idea to reshape the airbox.

Thanks guys.

Make sure you get new intake boot o-rings. Robert offers them with the carb o-ring kit, but I can't remember if they're optional or part of the package. If you didn't happen to get them, you can order them with the boots, they're cheap.

one last thing what is the best way to get shims for the vavles? should i just order new ones from a dealer site? they have an asortment of sizes.

Thanks again.

We have a person here who manages a shim club, but it's not very useful if you don't already have a few spare shims lying around. Since you have to send shims to get shims back. And you cannot turn the engine at all without shims in all buckets. If you have more than one or two shims to replace, you either have to remove the camshafts (not hard, but somewhat risky if you're a newbie to wrenching on bikes) or buy new shims. Some say you can get by with substitutes like coins just long enough to turn the cams, but it's not something I would be comfortable with.

Z1 enterprises sells aftermarket shims which are much more affordable than OEM. But still a little spendy at $6.50 (ish?) a pop.

[chuck hahn]

RICK... My 'theory" is that the engine heat over many cycles heats the plastic and the carbs putting back pressure against the plastic slowly makes the walls concave. I have even held an airbox over the low flame of a stove to heat the plastic enough to flex relatively easy.

Have the cold water trickling and hold the wall back straight and cool it to reset it. I have found the boots line up almost perfectly after a reset.

If the airbox has side covers that come off..or you can otherwise get a hand down there..it helps to push from inside as you tighten the clamps onto the carbs!!

[Broncoman75]

One problem with the airboxes that develops over time is that the wall facing the carbs actually begins to get sun k in around the center...thus the boots wont line up or go on all the way.

I was wondering if this is what happened the airbox on my wife's bike. I will have to try the heat gun trick on it next weekend when I take it apart to rebuild the leaky tensioner o-rings. Thanks for the tip on the reheat I was thinking of looking for another used one, but worried it might have the same warping...

[chuck hahn]

take your time and test the flexility as you go. Once it is workable, then get it set and dun k it to cool it in place.