GS1100E 1980 carb Fuel valve Question

[Guest]

I am carrying out a carb clean and rebuild as all here have told me. On disassembly I noticed that my fuel valve looks different to those in the pictures. It has a neat little fuel filter and this other circlip thingy that holds the needle and seat together. A lot of things in these carbs tell me that someone has tried to do a rebuild recently and this fuel valve looks new. Please tell me that you are supposed to remove the circlip on install. It could explain why the bike would run fine for a while and then run way too rich on one cylinder for no reason. I have attached a picture (I think)

[Reddog170]

That is a retainer clip. It will prevent the needle from falling out. I have found that if it is bent or twisted they can cause problems and I usually do not put them back in. If they are in good shape and not bent or just out of wack then you can reuse them.

[hikermikem]

I've never seen those clips on any carbs I've taken apart before...

Although they may work fine with the clips in place, I can see where the clip might interfere with the float tab movement.

I would remove the clips before installing the needle valve & seat assembly into the carbs.

[tkent02]

Those clips are standard on CV carbs, no problems with them.

[hikermikem]

Those clips are standard on CV carbs, no problems with them.

Hey Tom,

Not sure how standard they are... they do not show up on any parts fiche.

However, I can see where they'll work just fine either way, with or without the clips.

I would not use them myself, just another piece of hardware that doesn't really help with anything, and may in fact actually cause a problem...

Just my $.02.

[Nessism]

I've seen those spring clubs on a number of OEM carbs, and others without. They don't cause a problem per say, unless some hamfisted mechanic damaged them.

It's best to remove the clip, remove the needle, and remove the filter. You can dip the metal parts in carb dip if needed, but don't put the filter in the caustic sauce. Inspect the needle and seat to make sure they are clean and not worn. The needle spring should be strong enough to support the weight of the float, otherwise consider replacing the needle.

[Crage]

I've had a set of carbs with the float needle clips. I removed mine because one was missing. Should work fine with or without them.

[MiketheBike]

Thanks everybody. Sounds like many have had no problem with the clip but since I already had issues with the carbs intermittently flooding before I started, I think I'll take em off. Thanks again for your input.

[Steve]

I would not use them myself, just another piece of hardware that doesn't really help with anything, and may in fact actually cause a problem...

Just my $.02.

You had better demand some change from your two cents.

I have seen them on several sets of carbs that I have done. I believe that their purpose is to limit the travel of the needle. I have seen some floats that drop enough that the needle will wedge down and prevent the floats from coming back up to close the valve. With the clips in place, the float can drop as much as it wants (when the carbs dry up), but the needles won't drop down to wedge them.

.

[MiketheBike]

Good point. I'll look into that on my carbs

[Kaiser Sosei]

My guess is they are originaly to make instalation easier. With the wire clip on, the needle can't come out. They probably had a bucket of them and the factory worker just grabbed a few as he need them. Unless they are damaged, I leave them in.