Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Jetting question bsw30ss

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Jetting question bsw30ss

    The needle on the left was how I took it out of the carb, I just installed 105 jets and 37.5 pilots should I put the spacer below the e clip like I did on the needle on the right to raise up the needle or is this too much. My bike has a drilled air box , k&n filter and 4 into 1 exhaust with aftermarket muffler . The previous owner did this but never got the jetting figured out. I took out 102.5 and 105 main jets and 40 stamped on the pilots. I installed all four 105 mains and 37.5 pilots. When I ran it on original set up it pulled until about 1/3 throttle then fell on its face. It's a 1983 gs550e

    #2
    Hell's Bells slap it on run er up and do plug chops.
    I am pretty sure the Canadian spec mains were 102.5 on the outboard throttles and 105 on the inboard. This with stock exhaust.

    Meaning you aint getting a whole from the changes on the mains

    Comment


      #3
      the sigma6 kit instructions says to put the spacer under the eclip but you need one ontop of the clip for the barrel thing.

      Comment


        #4
        So should I leave the spacer on the top like in the left needle in the picture, and put some washer shims under the spacer that is already below the e clip , also is the needle on the left stock or is it not supposed to have the plastic shim under the e clip? On the top of the carbs closest to the engine there are two screws on each carb , these were 1 1/4 turns out with the 40 pilots in , what should I be with the 37.5 ? Everything I read says 3 - 3 1/2 turns out , is this correct? This bike ran well when idling and revving it in the garage but had no pull on the street past 2nd gear , even struggled to reach 55 mph . It felt like it was starved for fuel, I taped up the holes in the air box and it ran worse.
        Last edited by Guest; 08-10-2013, 10:31 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          on mine,, kinda same setup as yours,, I left the plastic spacer ontop, and used 2 washers (or 1 spacer) under the clip. but mine actually has 4 slots for the eclip so I put it to the 3rd slot,, which would be the same as putting 2 washers there (make sence?). 3-1/2 is good for the jets, stock is 2-1/2 turns out.

          I have 102.5 on 1-4 and 105 on 2-3 (stock was 95 and 102.5) and left the pilot jet alone (my stock is 35), but upping pilots you can close the mixture one turn or so I think (more mixture?)

          Comment


            #6
            How does your bike respond with the throttle? From reading on the old specs this bike should be quick , mine is not that at all, it runs good , no backfiring . Sounds impressive when revving it but just a dog on the street.

            Comment


              #7
              I think the short path to engine harmony is to install a stage 3 jet kit.

              Dynojet Jet Kits Whether you run a standard motorcycle, or a tuned sportbike, Dynojet Carburetor Jet Kits can provide you with a simple and affordable solution to all your carburetion problems. Dynojet Jet Kits increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range, while maintaining optimum fuel economy. Each Dynojet Jet Kit includes comprehensive instructions which show step-by-step installation and testing procedures to ensure a perfect setup every time. This is backed by free telephone and Internet support to Dynojet customers. Kit installation and Dynamometer services are available in many parts of the world. Please see the Dynamometer Center Search Page to locate your nearest dyno shop. Read Full Description Jet Kit Types Needle & Needle Jet Caps Many newer bikes have very flat power and fuel delivery curves when used with the stock exhaust and air-box. When aftermarket pipes are used, the power curve is usually not flat. You find the need to lean out for low speed and richen up for top end; or leaner on the top end and richer at the low speed. In order to achieve full function and driveability, Dynojet develops shrouds or cap style nozzles for adjusting the upper or lower top end. They also have an effect similar to fuel injection by breaking up the fuel as it enters the air stream. Fuel Needle The design of the needle is where Dynojet spends most of its R&D time. The needle is designed to give the correct amount of fuel throughout the mid-range and is also designed to allow adjustment from groove 1 to groove 6 with little or no effect below 3000 R.P.M.; then with the correct end dimensions, the needle will have little effect on the main jet regardless of needle position. This isolates all circuits from each other and ensures easy set-up of the midrange and driveability. Main Air Jet This jet allows air into the emulsion tube to mix with fuel being drawn up from the float bowl. It controls the amount of fuel which can be pulled from the float bowl into the venturi. The larger the size of the main air jet, the more air you get and less fuel. The smaller the main air jet, the more fuel you get and less air. Dynojet alters this only to achieve the flattest possible fuel delivery curve. Pilot Circuit This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle. Main Jet We develop our main jets to correctly serve two functions; static load and dynamic load. The static load is the fuel received through the main jet in the upper gears, where the tachometer is moving very slow. The dynamic fueling portion of the main jet is the amount of fuel received from the jet in the mid-range potion of the power. For example, you have a GSXR1100 G,H with #130 main jets. You then install #125 mains. After running the bike you notice the top end has improved but the mid-range doesn't pull as well. You then install #135 mains and you notice the mid-range is great but the top end is slower. This is a common compromise when using stock main jets and needles. If you install Dy 93 Dealers Orders Dealer Orders "Dealer Orders Dynojet Research Inc. dealers much call in to place an order. Please call us at: 1-800-992-4993 (Toll Free)/Suzuki/GS550ES/1986


              It's not so much the height of the needles, as the taper. The stock needles are straight, where the Dyna's are pointy'er... if you know what I mean, and deliver a much smoother mid range.
              '85 GS550L - SOLD
              '85 GS550E - SOLD
              '82 GS650GL - SOLD
              '81 GS750L - SOLD
              '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
              '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
              '82 GS1100G - SOLD
              '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

              Comment


                #8
                my old carbs sucked, but had a dynojet kit in, and was internally modified as well. the jets were thrashed and the pilot jets were stripped. I found another pair of carbs and transferred the jet needles over to the new carbs as well as the sigma6 jets. I will hopefully let you know tomorrow how the bike runs (I also got a new motor and just finished installing it. I should have it running sunday. The old motor has no compression on 3 and 4, and burnt exhaust valves.

                Comment


                  #9
                  My needle has 5C64 stamped on it. Is this stock? I want to make sure the PO hadn't already put a jet kit in it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Those are stock, the pics you show in post #1 are the stock "non-adjustable" needles.

                    The dyna needles are slotted at the top to provide height adjustment, depending on where you put the e-clip - they're also very pointed at the opposite end...

                    If you decide to go with the stage 3 kit, then follow the directions provided. Both the Stage 1 & 3 kits come with additional jets, but only the Stage 3 kit comes with the needles..

                    You want the needles if you're sticking with pods & a pipe.
                    '85 GS550L - SOLD
                    '85 GS550E - SOLD
                    '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                    '81 GS750L - SOLD
                    '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                    '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                    '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                    '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                    Comment


                      #11
                      if yours aren't adjustable then I think there stock

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I will take a picture of my needles if that helps to ID the dynojet ones

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hey dark , did you ever get it running?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok I had it out tonight for a short trip, I ended up using, 37.5 pilots, 105 main jets on 1-4 and 107.5 on 2-3 cyl. 3-1/4 turns out on the mixture screws , it idles rich , I can smell it. I'm going to turn them in to only 2 turns out. But it seems a little surgey or buzzy at half throttle. Is this normal for the mods on this bike? The k&n filter and Gemini muffler and 4 into 1 were all on this bike when I got it. It was never jetted correctly , therefore it sat for 12 years before I got it.

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X