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82 1100 Float Question

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    82 1100 Float Question

    I have my carbs all apart and am inspecting them. I am using Base Cliffs tutorial. He mentions the needle spring has to be smooth. I am assuming he means the small metal tab between the floats?? If so I have a very small dot where the needle pushes against the tab. Do I need to replace the floats???

    #2
    Originally posted by Jamesp View Post
    I have my carbs all apart and am inspecting them. I am using Base Cliffs tutorial. He mentions the needle spring has to be smooth. I am assuming he means the small metal tab between the floats?? If so I have a very small dot where the needle pushes against the tab. Do I need to replace the floats???
    I'm pretty sure he's referring to the tip of the float needle that sits in the inlet valve. They get a round groove in them and let gas by.
    Last edited by chef1366; 09-01-2013, 09:30 AM.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Is that little wear spot in the tab a problem or can I just leave it go?

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        #4
        Let it go. When you set your float levels it shouldn't make any difference.
        80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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          #5
          Thanks

          Thanks for your time guys it is much appreciated. If Base Cliff is out there thanks a million for the tutorial. I would be in the dumper without it. I am hoping everything goes smooth from here on out.

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