New to GS, a couple quick questions...

[azr]

But what if you leave your bike on the side stand. Won't the fuel eventually make it to the crankcase because of the angle?

[Steve]

But what if you leave your bike on the side stand. Won't the fuel eventually make it to the crankcase because of the angle?

If you think about it, that "angle" will put one side of the floats down a bit lower than the other, dipping it farther into the fuel in the bowl and pressing that much harder to close the needle valve.

Then, when the fuel level in the bowl eventually goes down, it will be that much longer before that side of the float gets low enough to open the valve and admit fuel.

It seems to me (and I could be wrong) that the fuel level in the bowl will be highest when the bike is vertical, not leaned over.

.

[bccap]

Alpha Sports lists these as compatible petcocks. Try Georgefix on ebay for reasonable prices.......Regarding the valves, just show BigT a picture of that beer system you have and await his arrival.....

Alpha-Sports

- Part Number Cross-Reference - Where Used

Part Number or Accessory Name

• 1979 SUZUKI GS750EN - FUEL COCK
• 1979 SUZUKI GS750N - FUEL COCK
• 1979 SUZUKI GS850GN - FUEL COCK
• 1980 SUZUKI GS1000GT - FUEL COCK
• 1980 SUZUKI GS850GT - FUEL COCK
• 1981 SUZUKI GS1000GX - FUEL COCK
• 1981 SUZUKI GS850GX - FUEL COCK

[Big T]

Alpha Sports lists these as compatible petcocks. Try Georgefix on ebay for reasonable prices.......Regarding the valves, just show BigT a picture of that beer system you have and await his arrival.....

Alpha-Sports

- Part Number Cross-Reference - Where Used

Part Number or Accessory Name

• 1979 SUZUKI GS750EN - FUEL COCK
• 1979 SUZUKI GS750N - FUEL COCK
• 1979 SUZUKI GS850GN - FUEL COCK
• 1980 SUZUKI GS1000GT - FUEL COCK
• 1980 SUZUKI GS850GT - FUEL COCK
• 1981 SUZUKI GS1000GX - FUEL COCK
• 1981 SUZUKI GS850GX - FUEL COCK

Now, now - I've given up drinking beer in a attempt to lose weight, which all of those who have met me know, is needed

Drew, if your new shims still aren't thin enough, let me know. I think I have a 2.45 in the box and I can just lend that to you

If you think you damaged your cams, I think I have a pair hanging around

[Steve]

I see that you are already past this point, but someone else might be reading it in preparation for their project.

I'll head out to the garage and see if I can get some zip ties in there to get shims out.

One at a time, ONE AT A TIME. You only need ONE zip-tie. You check ONE shim, put it back in, remove the zip-tie, move to the next one. If you leave a zip-tie in place, I don't know if there is enough clearance when the piston comes to the top.

As for lines... I'm trying to source some new rubber fuel and vacuum lines. ... The vacuum lines I can find at auto parts stores, but rubber lines to be compliant with fuel are harder to source locally.

No need to "source them locally", we have a decent list of online vendors from which they are available. The best part is ... they will be the right size.

If you turn the cams with no shim in the bucket, you will damage the cam lobe or the bucket.

Very true, but you can replace the shim with a temporary shim in the form of a coin. A quarter or a dollar coin works quite well, just remember to put a real shim there before starting the engine.

While I wait for the shim tool, shims, and gasket, ...

Why do you need the shim tool? You apparently already have mastered the zip-tie technique.

Are you sure your feelers are metric?? Quote.. "My smallest feeler gauge is .037mm" .... I have never seen one that size as part of a standard set check its not imperial... it should be like foil thick... Just asking?

No, that is the metric APPROXIMATION that is printed on a set of INCH feelers. Do yourself a favor. Either use the INCH measurements to which the feelers are made, or get a true set of metric feelers. Note that either one will work with the spreadsheet that you have received, but please use the right measurement system.

Though the smallest in the set are the .037mm, .076mm, then .102mm so I don't have much knowledge as to where they are in the spec. ...

Quite easy, really. Look at the printed specs, they call for .03 to .08 mm. The .037 is just above the minimum, the .076 is just below the maximum.

.

[Drewbis1]

so it looks like I may be doing a top end rebuild. How can I tell if a valve is damaged without removing the top end?

[Steve]

Run through and check all the valve clearances. If one of them is a lot larger, the head might be bent, preventing it from closing all the way.

Or you can do a compression check.

Don't ASSUME on things like this, MEASURE.

.

[Big T]

The vacuum lines I can find at auto parts stores, but rubber lines to be compliant with fuel are harder to source locally.

Most MC shops have them

Try Dr. Brown, I've bought fuel line from him

[Drewbis1]

Thanks for all the advice. For the moment, I'm still trying to extract a broken exhaust bolt. Only had about 1/8" of thread showing, not enough to get vice grips on. I tried welding a nut to it and the nut would break off... along with the 1/8" of remaining thread. Should also note, I heated it up, and smacked it with a hammer. I think my only option left is to drill it out and retap. I'm weary of using an EZ Out. Pretty sure if it snapped my welded nut off, the EZ Out will snap too. Damn.