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read all the guides, want to comform shim check process

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    read all the guides, want to comform shim check process

    Hi everyone

    Ive real all the various guides (Suzuki service manual, my clymer manual, checked the basscliff website, watched 2-3 videos on Youtube) and I'm still not completely clear on a couple things and I wanted to verify.

    My new to me 1979 gs850g needs the valve shims checked (and I believe adjusted.)

    the process described mentions removing the tank, horns, removing all the bolts from the valve cover, and removing the cover.

    AFTER this I see lots of descriptions of cams being pointed forward and upwards, engines being turned with wrenches and see pictures of the special suzuki shim removal tool.

    I believe it has been described that the intake side of the engine is towards the front of the bike, and the exhaust is towards the back. (Logical)

    Once all the parts mentioned before are removed, would I just make sure the lobes are pointed front for the intake valve, try to slide the new feeler gauge I bought in between the shim and lobe until I see one that goes ?

    (I would not use the removal tool until it is decided what the clearances are) ?

    turn the engine with a wrench until lobes are up and check the exhaust side, mark down ect.

    If any clearances need to be changed remove the shim with the tool and decide what the next shim size should be, mark down, and get the correct shims for swap out?

    (If this correct ? sorry for the silly question, I'm not a mechanical type and have never done a valve adjustment before at all.)

    sean

    #2
    Originally posted by seanarthurmachado View Post
    Hi everyone

    Ive real all the various guides (Suzuki service manual, my clymer manual, checked the basscliff website, watched 2-3 videos on Youtube) and I'm still not completely clear on a couple things and I wanted to verify.

    My new to me 1979 gs850g needs the valve shims checked (and I believe adjusted.)

    the process described mentions removing the tank, horns, removing all the bolts from the valve cover, and removing the cover.

    AFTER this I see lots of descriptions of cams being pointed forward and upwards, engines being turned with wrenches and see pictures of the special suzuki shim removal tool.

    I believe it has been described that the intake side of the engine is towards the front of the bike, and the exhaust is towards the back. (Logical)


    Once all the parts mentioned before are removed, would I just make sure the lobes are pointed front for the intake valve, try to slide the new feeler gauge I bought in between the shim and lobe until I see one that goes ?

    (I would not use the removal tool until it is decided what the clearances are) ?

    turn the engine with a wrench until lobes are up and check the exhaust side, mark down ect.

    If any clearances need to be changed remove the shim with the tool and decide what the next shim size should be, mark down, and get the correct shims for swap out?

    (If this correct ? sorry for the silly question, I'm not a mechanical type and have never done a valve adjustment before at all.)

    sean
    The exhausts are in front, they go to the exhaust pipe. The intakes are in back, they come from the carburetors.

    Use the procedure in the Suzuki manual, where you check two valves at a time.
    One valve's lobe will be up vertical, the next one over will be horizontal, away from the engine, to the front for the exhausts, to the rear for the intakes.
    Check those two valve's clearances in this position.
    Don't rotate the engine with any shim removed.

    If the clearance is too small, you need one size thinner shim. If it's too large, (not often) you need a thicker one.

    If it's badly neglected you may need several sizes smaller on a few of them. If no feeler guages will fit you need more help, repost that and we'll steer you right.

    You might want to find someone who's done it before to help the first time if you are that unmechanical.
    Last edited by tkent02; 04-12-2014, 03:52 PM.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      I usually turn the motor with the back wheel. Easy with the plugs out.
      sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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        #4
        Send me some contact info in a PM or e-mail, along with a good time to contact you.

        You are not that far from me, I can help you through it.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

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          #5
          Do yourself a HUGE favor, and get in touch with Steve-he won't bite!
          sigpicSome of the totally committed probably should be.
          '58 + '63 Vespa 150's' (London, GB/RI, US)
          '67 X6 T20 ('67 Long Beach, Ca.- misty-eyed)
          '71 Kaw. A1-ugh ('71 SF, CA- worked @ Kaw dlr)
          '66 Yam. YL1('72 SF-commuter beater)
          '73 Kaw. S2A-2Xugh ('73 SF-still parts slave)
          '78 GS 750C ('77 SF-old faithful-killed by son)
          '81 KZ 750E ('81 SF-back to Kaw. dlr)
          '81 GS 650G ('08 back to NE&ME- (project)
          '82 GS '82 (2) GS650GZ, L, Middlebury, G current

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