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    jet size

    hey guys, own a 1982 gs1100ez and it has a vance and hines race 4 into 1 pipe, and i just bought k&n individual pods for it. i also just purchased a factory pro
    3.0 kit for the carbs to be rejected. the kit came with 130 and 132.5 main jets
    i put in the 132.5 jets and the bike is still getting flat between 7-9k. i set the float heights to 22.4mm. the low and midrange is in my eyes perfect. smooth and powerful. i had already also synchronized the carbs. i pulled a spark plug and it looks lean for sure. i called factory pro and they said i may need a bigger main jet size. so he is going to send me the next two sizes up for free. at least they seem to be taking care of me on that but from what i have read on here it seems everyone has been good with running around 125s in their bike. any ideas?

    #2
    Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
    hey guys, own a 1982 gs1100ez and it has a vance and hines race 4 into 1 pipe, and i just bought k&n individual pods for it. i also just purchased a factory pro
    3.0 kit for the carbs to be rejected. the kit came with 130 and 132.5 main jets
    i put in the 132.5 jets and the bike is still getting flat between 7-9k. i set the float heights to 22.4mm. the low and midrange is in my eyes perfect. smooth and powerful. i had already also synchronized the carbs. i pulled a spark plug and it looks lean for sure. i called factory pro and they said i may need a bigger main jet size. so he is going to send me the next two sizes up for free. at least they seem to be taking care of me on that but from what i have read on here it seems everyone has been good with running around 125s in their bike. any ideas?
    Some engines need a bigger jet change than others. Built on Thurday morning, perhaps. Some riders will say one jet size is good, but they really don't know how to test. Some jets are not made accurately, some jet companies use different numbering schemes. I don't know what Factory Pro uses.

    Use what your engine needs, nothing else matters. I'd try the biggest one he gives you first. But with CV carbs, this will effect the low and midrange that was once perfect. You'll have to perfect them again.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      thanks! has anyone used factory pro?

      Comment


        #4
        The 3133 dyno jet kit stage 3 is dj132 and dj138. That cooresponds to mikuni mk122.5 to mk127.5 (roughly). If you are going above MK 130 you must have some engine work done and you are not stock.

        My 1166 with 4:2:1 is running a mk135 main and that is the smallest main jet I have ever heard of on an 1166. Besides the pipe largely due to the head work I head done. If you are really stock I would say you are too big already.

        All my numbers are based on extensive tuning using an LM-2 WB O2 sensor and associated data logging.
        Last edited by posplayr; 05-04-2014, 06:28 PM.

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          #5
          The other small point that you missed is how to jet a bike with cv carbs from the FP website.


          You start with the main. Till it is set nothing else matters.

          Comment


            #6
            I have Factory Pro needles I bought from Rapid Ray on this site - I'm running a 140 mains with Vance and Hines Supersport pipe, but K&N knockoff pods. What clip position are you running?
            -1980 GS1100 LT
            -1975 Honda cb750K
            -1972 Honda cl175
            - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

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              #7
              i had them set third from the top as said to start and that was the best running and i had raised them one before calling factory pro. i believe its too rich now mid level and I'm going to go back to 3rd from the top. when i get the new mains I'm guessing it will be 134 or 135?

              Comment


                #8
                posplayr i did know that the main jet is the starting point. it was a cold 45 and rainy day so i tuned it up with the 132.5 and then tried it the following day. the plug does not look at all rich though. they are even slightly "white". i took 118's out of it and it had the vance and hines pipe, and knock off pods that were much more restrictive. when i bought the k&n pods the bike really hated them with the 118s. thats why i went to rejet in the first place. I'm not sure what you meant by the jet sizes. does factory pro use minuki jets? opposed to dyne jet?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
                  posplayr i did know that the main jet is the starting point. it was a cold 45 and rainy day so i tuned it up with the 132.5 and then tried it the following day. the plug does not look at all rich though. they are even slightly "white". i took 118's out of it and it had the vance and hines pipe, and knock off pods that were much more restrictive. when i bought the k&n pods the bike really hated them with the 118s. thats why i went to rejet in the first place. I'm not sure what you meant by the jet sizes. does factory pro use minuki jets? opposed to dyne jet?

                  Yes Factory pro only sells OEM jets as far as I recall. Their kits have OEM jets.
                  DJ sells only DJ jets which flow similar to the same size as a MK is you remove 10 points (e.g. DG130 is approx MK120 ).

                  If you know that you start on the Main then why make the comment that everything else is solid except the 7K-9K range? Once you get the main dialed the bottom end will probably need tweaking based on where ever you end up.

                  Also you have not specified if the engine is stock or not? With 4:1 and K&N type pods you should not need anything else other than the DJ132-DJ138 range that is in the DJ-3133 kit.

                  Dynojet Jet Kits Whether you run a standard motorcycle, or a tuned sportbike, Dynojet Carburetor Jet Kits can provide you with a simple and affordable solution to all your carburetion problems. Dynojet Jet Kits increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range, while maintaining optimum fuel economy. Each Dynojet Jet Kit includes comprehensive instructions which show step-by-step installation and testing procedures to ensure a perfect setup every time. This is backed by free telephone and Internet support to Dynojet customers. Kit installation and Dynamometer services are available in many parts of the world. Please see the Dynamometer Center Search Page to locate your nearest dyno shop. Read Full Description Jet Kit Types Needle & Needle Jet Caps Many newer bikes have very flat power and fuel delivery curves when used with the stock exhaust and air-box. When aftermarket pipes are used, the power curve is usually not flat. You find the need to lean out for low speed and richen up for top end; or leaner on the top end and richer at the low speed. In order to achieve full function and driveability, Dynojet develops shrouds or cap style nozzles for adjusting the upper or lower top end. They also have an effect similar to fuel injection by breaking up the fuel as it enters the air stream. Fuel Needle The design of the needle is where Dynojet spends most of its R&D time. The needle is designed to give the correct amount of fuel throughout the mid-range and is also designed to allow adjustment from groove 1 to groove 6 with little or no effect below 3000 R.P.M.; then with the correct end dimensions, the needle will have little effect on the main jet regardless of needle position. This isolates all circuits from each other and ensures easy set-up of the midrange and driveability. Main Air Jet This jet allows air into the emulsion tube to mix with fuel being drawn up from the float bowl. It controls the amount of fuel which can be pulled from the float bowl into the venturi. The larger the size of the main air jet, the more air you get and less fuel. The smaller the main air jet, the more fuel you get and less air. Dynojet alters this only to achieve the flattest possible fuel delivery curve. Pilot Circuit This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle. Main Jet We develop our main jets to correctly serve two functions; static load and dynamic load. The static load is the fuel received through the main jet in the upper gears, where the tachometer is moving very slow. The dynamic fueling portion of the main jet is the amount of fuel received from the jet in the mid-range potion of the power. For example, you have a GSXR1100 G,H with #130 main jets. You then install #125 mains. After running the bike you notice the top end has improved but the mid-range doesn't pull as well. You then install #135 mains and you notice the mid-range is great but the top end is slower. This is a common compromise when using stock main jets and needles. If you install Dy 93 Dealers Orders Dealer Orders "Dealer Orders Dynojet Research Inc. dealers much call in to place an order. Please call us at: 1-800-992-4993 (Toll Free)/Suzuki/GS1100/1986


                  Also while it is not recommended by DJ, it is conventional wisdom that you increase your pilot size from 45 to 47.5 when jetting for a 4:1 exhaust (as opposed to 4:2:1)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i stated that the low and midrange is set well because it is. I'm not saying i tuned it to run well. i just installed the factory pro 3.0 kit that was suggested to me by factory pro. so currently i have the 132.5 main jets and i believe a 50 pilot jet.
                    i don't currently have the kit specs with me. again though i pulled the plugs and they aren't even golden or dark, they look lean.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      also i don't think my bike has any internal upgrades. i bought it 3 years ago. are the dj jets smaller on the head? the ones i took out were 118's and they had a smaller head on them. if so that would make them equal to 128 mk right?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
                        i stated that the low and midrange is set well because it is. I'm not saying i tuned it to run well. i just installed the factory pro 3.0 kit that was suggested to me by factory pro. so currently i have the 132.5 main jets and i believe a 50 pilot jet.
                        i don't currently have the kit specs with me. again though i pulled the plugs and they aren't even golden or dark, they look lean.
                        We'll good luck

                        Comment


                          #13
                          sorry but I think I'm confused by this at this point posplr

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
                            sorry but I think I'm confused by this at this point posplr
                            If you reread my posts it might become more clear; I tend to be sparing with words till I figure out if someone is paying any attention.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              posplyr, did you read my post asking about head size of the dj jets? right before you said good luck

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