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    3 years and still no love...

    Thanks for the great site. Most of the things I have done on this bike I have learned about from this site. Here is my (sob!) story:

    I bought a 1982 1100GLZ 3 years ago and have been working on it off and on for 3 years. The plan was to tinker around with it and learn a bit about old bikes. Problem is, I still can’t get it to start.

    Details: I bought the bike in the dead of a Minnesota winter when it was below zero so did not attempt to start. Just verified it turned over. I pulled the jug and replaced the gasket with an Athena. I then pulled the valves and cleaned them up along with all the passages using degreaser. I put new oil seals and valve springs in. When I put the jug back on, I cracked a ring and replaced it with a new one. After putting it back together I did a compression check and all were at 125+ except the one I replaced was now at 85. I put a 4 into 1 Mac pipe on it. I checked the valve clearances and put in a couple new disks to get it within spec. I replaced the intake boots and weather stripped the airbox. I dipped the carb and cleaned all passages with a carb cleaning wire verifying that the enricher tube was clear and carb cleaner can be sent through it and out the proper hole. The float bowl also has free passage where the enricher tube fits in. (the carbs have been dipped three times since it last ran). Tank is clean and I replaced the petcock with new one. I then replaced the coils with 3 Ohm green dynatechs. I fitted a dyna 2000 ignition and crank trigger on the bike and replaced the Regulator / Rectifier with a new aftermarket one from I think Ricks Motorsports. I put the relay in as suggested to get 12v to the coils. I have verified that it is working. I replaced the plugs and gapped to about .026. Replaced battery this year and fully charged. Plugs are getting spark, seems pretty small but is blue.

    It still won’t start. Here are the current symptoms. Tank is pulled, have a funnel taped to fuel intake and filled to top of fuel inlet tube. Bike turns over but will not fire. I sprayed starter fluid into cylinder and replaced plugs. Gives just a little flutter but won’t fire. Adjusted air screws to 1.75 out from seated. Same result. Pulled airbox and shot starter fluid into carbs as turning over. Still just a bit of a flutter of firing and then nothing. Continues to crank over but nothing happening.

    Here are the options I am currently considering:
    1. Recheck valve clearances – is the starter fluid not getting into the cylinder due to an overly tight intake valve? Still, it seems like it should fire when sprayed directly into the cylinder. Again, it just gives a weak little flutter when sprayed directly into cylinder.
    2. Check the float heights – this should not prevent running on starter fluid though.

    Am I missing something?

    #2
    Are you getting spark?

    You need three things to run; compression, ignition, and fuel. It sounds like you've got enough compression to run, starting fluid should bypass the fuel issue temporarily, so the simplest thing to do first is probably to verify that you have adequate spark, and that it is getting there at the right time. Ignition is pretty simple, re-check everything even if you think it's right. Also make sure you have enough juice to turn the engine over with vigor. A weakish battery can be problematic especially if your state of tune is 'a bit off'.
    "Men will never be free until Mark learns to do The Twist."

    -Denis D'shaker

    79 GS750N

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by lwitter View Post
      Thanks for the great site. Most of the things I have done on this bike I have learned about from this site. Here is my (sob!) story:

      I bought a 1982 1100GLZ 3 years ago and have been working on it off and on for 3 years. The plan was to tinker around with it and learn a bit about old bikes. Problem is, I still can’t get it to start.

      Details: I bought the bike in the dead of a Minnesota winter when it was below zero so did not attempt to start. Just verified it turned over. I pulled the jug and replaced the gasket with an Athena. I then pulled the valves and cleaned them up along with all the passages using degreaser. I put new oil seals and valve springs in. When I put the jug back on, I cracked a ring and replaced it with a new one. After putting it back together I did a compression check and all were at 125+ except the one I replaced was now at 85. I put a 4 into 1 Mac pipe on it. I checked the valve clearances and put in a couple new disks to get it within spec. I replaced the intake boots and weather stripped the airbox. I dipped the carb and cleaned all passages with a carb cleaning wire verifying that the enricher tube was clear and carb cleaner can be sent through it and out the proper hole. The float bowl also has free passage where the enricher tube fits in. (the carbs have been dipped three times since it last ran). Tank is clean and I replaced the petcock with new one. I then replaced the coils with 3 Ohm green dynatechs. I fitted a dyna 2000 ignition and crank trigger on the bike and replaced the Regulator / Rectifier with a new aftermarket one from I think Ricks Motorsports. I put the relay in as suggested to get 12v to the coils. I have verified that it is working. I replaced the plugs and gapped to about .026. Replaced battery this year and fully charged. Plugs are getting spark, seems pretty small but is blue.

      It still won’t start. Here are the current symptoms. Tank is pulled, have a funnel taped to fuel intake and filled to top of fuel inlet tube. Bike turns over but will not fire. I sprayed starter fluid into cylinder and replaced plugs. Gives just a little flutter but won’t fire. Adjusted air screws to 1.75 out from seated. Same result. Pulled airbox and shot starter fluid into carbs as turning over. Still just a bit of a flutter of firing and then nothing. Continues to crank over but nothing happening.

      Here are the options I am currently considering:
      1. Recheck valve clearances – is the starter fluid not getting into the cylinder due to an overly tight intake valve? Still, it seems like it should fire when sprayed directly into the cylinder. Again, it just gives a weak little flutter when sprayed directly into cylinder.
      2. Check the float heights – this should not prevent running on starter fluid though.

      Am I missing something?
      Highlighted items:
      Mac 4-1 is going to make it lean.
      What filter element in airbox? Stock or aftermarket? Some aftermarket ones allow more air than stock.
      New Dyna & trigger - as Allie said - sparking at right time? Triple check the timing
      Try air screws at 2.5 turns out for initial setting.
      Some of these bikes won't run at all with airbox off. Combined with aftermarket exhaust would make it REALLY lean.

      I see a few things that could stack up to a really lean mixture.

      Comment


        #4
        Recheck your cam timing.


        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #5
          I'm with Tom on this one. Timing. Cam timing can cause things to go totally awry and is easy to get a tooth off even for those of us who do it a lot.

          Also, that small spark comment makes it sound like maybe something in all your new ignition electrics is not doing the job. Could be a weak battery not able to charge those new coils? But even with just a little spark, if your cam and ignition timing are on target then a squirt of spray-start should have her kicking over.

          Comment


            #6
            Me too! check cams to crank timing, verify plug wires are on right plugs, check for spark at plugs; due some cranking with "choke" on, then inspect plugs to see any traces of fuel. Starter fluid as last resort.
            1981 gs650L

            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

            Comment


              #7
              Also, are the plug leads and low tension coil wires in correct order?
              sigpic

              Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.

              Comment


                #8
                +1...sure sounds like a timing issue
                '83 GS650G
                '83 GS550es (didn't like the colours in the 80's, but they've grown on me)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Post your location. There are many GS'rs around who would stop over and lend and hand. That might be the quickest route to resolution.
                  1982 GS550M Rebuilt Winter '12 - 550 to 673cc engine conversion.
                  1989 Kawasaki ZX-7 Ninja
                  2016 Ducati Scrambler Full Throttle

                  Comment


                    #10
                    After three years I doubt if a quick resolution is really on his mind.


                    Life is too short to ride an L.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks much for the ideas. I will be working through them, starting with timing, this weekend. BTW, I am in Plymouth, MN. Thanks again.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Just an idea

                        I bought those green coils to from dyna and... they are DARN close to the brackets and while I was checking power balance one day I did see a spark hop to the frame with one plug pulled
                        If you don't see the fourth of july coming out of those plugs you may be getting a partial drain from the screws in the back of the coils where the 12v wires feed into them
                        I also screwed up and put my relay on wrong and put a hot wire where the ground was supposed to go.
                        As you prolly know the ignition wire gets hot as you start it...maybe go online like I did and check where all four wires are supposed to go if you have spade connectors its easy to get a little mixed up...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I agree they are very close to those posts. I was wondering about that too, and right now I have the coils just temporarily strapped to the frame so that does not happen. But, I will need to deal with it eventually. I have already cross wired the relay and burned out the first one. I now have a new relay, verified locations of the wires, and have checked all the vitals with the multitester. I am pretty confident it is working now as I get a nice "click" in it when I turn on the ignition and it seems to be puting 12v to the coils when the ignition is on and close to zero when ignition is off.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 850GT_Rider View Post
                            Highlighted items:
                            Mac 4-1 is going to make it lean.
                            What filter element in airbox? Stock or aftermarket? Some aftermarket ones allow more air than stock.
                            New Dyna & trigger - as Allie said - sparking at right time? Triple check the timing
                            Try air screws at 2.5 turns out for initial setting.
                            Some of these bikes won't run at all with airbox off. Combined with aftermarket exhaust would make it REALLY lean.

                            I see a few things that could stack up to a really lean mixture.
                            The element is stock. I am going to try it with the airbox on and 2.5 turns on the air screws after I recheck the timing this weekend. Battery is on the charger.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Sci85 View Post
                              Post your location. There are many GS'rs around who would stop over and lend and hand. That might be the quickest route to resolution.
                              Plymouth, Minnesota

                              Comment

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