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weak needle valves causing leak?

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    #31
    Easy enough to find out. Check the fuel level in all four carbs while the engine is running.


    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #32
      How do I do that since the bowls are attached ?

      So I went to start the bike this morning and it's hard to start like it's not getting enough gas. Last night I got to the point when I hit the start button and it came right on over and over without difficulty. I had to initially spray carb cleaner and getting it warmed up. Now keep in mine I haven't synced the carbs yet with the carbtune device yet. Should I get it running, then sync and then determine if I have another problem? Could the carbs not being synced impact it getting started or only impact how rough it rides?
      Last edited by Guest; 06-26-2014, 07:43 AM.

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        #33
        Don't assume that hard starting is always lean. Hard starting could be too little or too much fuel. If the fuel is still leaking or the floats are too high it can cause hard starting as well.

        You can check the fuel level dynamically by either making or purchasing a float bowl drain plug that you attach a clear tube to. You loop the tube up higher then the bowl. The amount of fuel in the tube will indicate how high the fuel level is in the bowl. It should be about at the point where the curved portion of the bowl meets the flanged portion. You need to check all 4 either separately or at the same time.

        A poor sync can effect both starting and drive ability but it would have to be pretty badly out of sync to not allow it to start.

        1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
        1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
        1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

        Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.

        JTGS850GL aka Julius

        GS Resource Greetings

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          #34
          Originally posted by claygs750e View Post
          How do I do that since the bowls are attached ?
          It's not particularly hard. Put the bike on the center stand on a level surface, rig your tank or an auxiliary tank so you can see the carburetors. drain one bowl put the bowl site tool in as described in the Suzuki manual. Prime the bowl for a static reading, then start the bike for a reading while running. Repeat with each carburetor. http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDet...item=ZSM01-208
          '78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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            #35
            That's the tool I was talking about. Or make your own from a float bowl screw.

            1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
            1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
            1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

            Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.

            JTGS850GL aka Julius

            GS Resource Greetings

            Comment


              #36
              The description for the fuel level gauge says its for a VM carburetor. Will it work on myBS 32 CV carbs?

              So what will the test actually tell me? If the gas level in each bowl is the same? Could the gas not being exactly even make it that hard to start? I just don't want to buy something else like I didnt need like possibly the needles and it ended up not being the case and the issue is still with the float.

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                #37
                Like he said..just use a drain bolt and clear tubing. the manual shows the gap required between the carb flange and the fuel level. find that info in the service manual. hook up the tube, and measure away.

                Some even make two marks the set distance apart. Hold the top mark at the flange and see where the fuel hit in relation to the lower mark.

                The test will tell you if the float hts are set enough to have the fuel in the required operating range..if not you tweek the floats till the fuel is in the specs.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                  #38
                  It will tell you if your floats are adjusted correctly and if any are leaking.

                  Not sure if the one posted will work, but here's one for the BS carbs.


                  1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                  1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                  1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                  Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.

                  JTGS850GL aka Julius

                  GS Resource Greetings

                  Comment


                    #39
                    I ordered the tubing on ebay so hopefully I can get the floats aligned and then do a sync. (at least there's no leak now even though the floats are higher then spec) I went out there tonight and sprayed carb cleaner in the carbs and it's starts right up and stays running. Can you explain why it would need the carb cleaner for the initial start up and then apparently it doesn't have a problem getting fuel after since it stays running? I don't have a great understanding how it all works together.

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                      #40
                      Why..... aren you using the choke? Full choke, hands off the throttle, crank.
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Ya, if you're using full choke it should start right up. If not then your choke circuit is gummed up.

                        1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                        1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                        1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                        Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.

                        JTGS850GL aka Julius

                        GS Resource Greetings

                        Comment


                          #42
                          I have the choke full up and crank and I can hear it trying, but it won't start. If I spray just a little carb spray it starts up and once it's warm then every start after I just hit the start button and it fires right up. I dipped all the little parts and body so they are very clean.

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                            #43
                            Ok, so I'm trying to test the float level with the clear tubing attached to the drain plug, but because I have the vacuum style petcock how am I supposed to check the carbs off the bike? I have it on prime now which I thought let gas flow without vacuum, but nothing is draining through the tubing. Is my option to check this only when the bike is running?

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