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    Air filter advice needed

    I have a GS550L 1980, when i got her years ago she had pod air filters on her, wrapped in electrical tape (i guess to try and restrict the air flow somewhat :O

    Well as time went on it got wet and fell off, and she ran terrible.

    Fast forward to her coming out of storage (long story) and i bought a stock air filter set up.

    I have one major issue with it, the rubber boots that go from the carbs to the plastic box don't seem to reach, your supposed to get them to go inside and make a seal but if i try to get one lip inside their hole the darn things pull off the back of the carbs

    Really feeling like i am headbutting a brick wall, if you put a balancer on the carb it says that their is a leak at intake manifold, which i am wondering to be the fact that i cannot seal these to each other.

    Has been suggested that i just put K&N pods on her, but afaik that would require rejetting and tuning which i have no clue about, and i have also read that doing so is a nightmare to ever get them to run right which would not be a great thing for a newbie like me

    Any advice greatly appreciated


    Thanks



    Edit: Found these, it says no rejetting required, are they any good? http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=RC-2314
    Last edited by Guest; 07-09-2014, 02:56 AM.

    #2
    Those say "off road".

    When I installed pods on my Suzi, I had to use tape to cover up more than three quarters of them to get the bike to run properly until I could get it jetted. It ran fine that way (more than two months), but I obviously wasn't getting the benefit of increased air intake.

    I paid to have it jetted on a dynamometer. The results were great - no loses anywhere in the rev range, only gains.
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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      #3
      That's what i think they did before, taped it up to get it to run right which as you say defeats the object of using the pods.

      I cannot afford to send her to get it done on a dynamometer, so i am wondering what my options are, is there a chart or something that tells you which jets to use with that engine/carb/exhaust etc set up?
      Last edited by Guest; 07-09-2014, 04:54 AM.

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        #4
        You'll be fine with the stock air box. Buy new boots for both sides airbox to carb and carb to engine (they are still available). Attach the carbs to the airbox side first, tighten, and then insert to the engine side. Make sure you get new orings for the engine side from www.cycleorings.com when you get new orings for your carbs.



        You are taking care of your carbs right?
        Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

        1981 GS550T - My First
        1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
        2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

        Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
        Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
        and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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          #5
          So you think that the boots have just shrunk or something?

          cos they are just too darn short to fit and cannot get the plastic air box to move any further forward

          Engine side is all fine with new O rings already
          Carbs have been cleaned out, other than that haven't done anything to them as i said newbie to it all here and was working on the completely obviously not right first


          Edit: just looked on place where i can usually get parts for her and none of the rubber boots, so its either going to be difficult or stupidly expensive

          Also how do you stop them sliding off of the carbs as there is no ridge for the jubilee clips to actually hold them too, its perfectly smooth and the slightest movement or over tightening of the jubilee clips and off they come
          Last edited by Guest; 07-09-2014, 08:14 AM.

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            #6
            On my 850GL, the air box hangs down from the frame. I found that in order to get the air box boots to seat on the carbs, I really have to lever the air box forward with a piece of wood. Don't know why.

            If your boots are not fully pliable all the way around, you need new ones. Yes, they are expensive. But it's a one-off cost and you'll potentially solve several issues at once.
            Charles
            --
            1979 Suzuki GS850G

            Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

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              #7
              Yeah, the boots shrink with age. New boots are a thing of beauty. New clamps too, since they stretch.

              If you attach the airbox boots to the carbs, and secure the band clamps, prior to installing the carbs into the boots on the head, it simplifies the installation. Works for me anyway.
              Ed

              To measure is to know.

              Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

              Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

              Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

              KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                #8
                Originally posted by Nessism View Post

                If you attach the airbox boots to the carbs, and secure the band clamps, prior to installing the carbs into the boots on the head, it simplifies the installation. Works for me anyway.
                Never thought to try it that way. I'll have to try that next time the carbs come off.

                1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
                1981 HD XLH

                Drew's 850 L Restoration

                Drew's 83 750E Project

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