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How much do the quality of the pods matter?

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    How much do the quality of the pods matter?

    So I've got this 1982 GS 650 for cheap and with all kinds of issues. I got some of em fixed, but then a new one pops up in it's place. What's really bothering me is it doesn't accelerator when I give it gas. It kind of hickups and picks up a little bit, but doesn't take off like I want it to. I'm running 125 jets and these cheapo pods. My guess is the air/fuel mixture sucks.

    My question to you guys, is what's the ideal air pods for this kind of bike?

    #2
    The stock air box......but if you are really wanting pods K&N's or APE's Cheap pods make a night mare of things.
    Rob
    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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      #3
      Can you post a picture looking inside one of the pods that you have? Are you still running the factory exhaust? Have you adjusted the valves?

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        #4
        Originally posted by GSX1000E View Post
        Can you post a picture looking inside one of the pods that you have? Are you still running the factory exhaust? Have you adjusted the valves?
        My guess is no- I doubt anything except the essentials are factory. A friend and I chopped, wrapped, and probably stripped bolts on the pipes. I know I've got my work cut out for me on the valves, because it has this persistent buzzing sound- basically at all times, but sounds more like rattling at higher rpms . Here's a picture of the inside of a pod that I can't wait to get rid of..
        IMG_0248.jpg

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          #5
          Your stock main jets call for #97.5's

          With standard engine pistons, and OEM exhaust go with #105's as pods call for going up 3 sizes.

          Pilot Air Jets are lightly seated and backed out 2.5 turns.

          Float height is critical, probably 22.4 mm from where the gasket seats on the metal, remove gasket and measure from low spot.



          Just go through the tutorial that follows, she will run great.

          Last edited by Guest; 11-18-2014, 04:28 AM.

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            #6
            Definitely upgrade at least to APE pods. And if it hasn't been said already (probably even more than once) get the Dynojet kit for your bike. Z1Enteprises more than likely has it for $95-96. Set them and forget them after that.
            Todays superbikes require free breathing. These special high performance filtering elements with chrome end caps not only work great, but look good too. Dont strangle your bike with poor air filtrationinsist on the best... "Super Pro." Sold in sets of 4. For Mikuni RS Flatslide 34mm, 36mm, 38mm, 40mm and OEM Stock Carbs.

            Z1 Enterprises specializes in quality Motorcycle parts for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Classic Japanese motorcycles from the 1970's and 1980's.
            Last edited by Guest; 11-18-2014, 07:37 AM.

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              #7
              If you don't have a dynojet kit, start with that. Just guessing and throwing 125's in probably isn't the best route to go. Make sure you adjust the valves and sync your carbs too.

              Have you disassembled and dipped your carbs yet? If not start here and then do all the stuff I said. My 650 wouldn't even run until I dipped the carbs and adjusted the valves

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                #8
                Thanks for posting the pic of the inside of those pods. You have what most on this forum have not noticed on some of the cheaper air filters. The shelf that is between the mounting point and filter itself is completely blocking the flow to the
                two orifices in your carbs at 4 and 8 o'clock on what would be the airbox side. (I.E.: No air can get to your pilot jet) You need to cut out a section at both of those points so that air can get into the carb at least and mark them so they can be clocked correctly.
                PM for more detailed instructions or buy some air filters that do not have that shelf.

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