Carb sync / valve adjustment / service manual **** 1982 gs850gl

[Steve]

... so do as Steve and Ed suggest (look at their post count, these guys are experts!) ...

No, we are evidently just a couple of keyboard jockeys that fill up the forum with useless drivel.

if you roatate the cam lobe on ex1 (first cylinder on left) to the forward position, parralel to the case half and check the clearence for ex1 & ex2 , is that insinuating that both lobes are in the same position? both lobes are facing forward? that would mean that both cylinders open and close at the same time?

Nobody is insinuating ANYTHING. Please put down your manuals (all of them), go back re-read what we have posted here. We have tried to spell it out IN DETAIL, exactly what you need to do.

i called 3 reputable shops and one being a dealer, all suggested to take my reading with the lobe opposite of the shim bucket(perpendicular).

Is there any chance that at least ONE of them was a Suzuki dealer? Maybe even one that had an old-timer mechanic, not a pimply-faced "technician"? Many shops will not work on anything that is over 10 years old. Last time I checked, most of our bikes were 30+, which means that nobody in the shop has seen a GS in there for at least 15-20 years.

Listen to what these forum guys are telling you. It is exactly as stated in the Suzuki factory manual. The shop guys are telling you what is in the Clymer manual. It is wrong.

Yeah, but what do WE know? We are just a bunch of anonymous people plonking away at our keyboards. The fact that we have been working on these bikes for years dosen't mean squat.

so i remeasured. i tried first on exhaust side on the fourth(right) cylinder. with the lobe parralel to the mating surface(facing the front) i could not get a clearance reading. with the lobe up and down (perpendicular) with the mating surface the clearance is .03. i also have been trying a measurement at a 45degree angle so the lobe is exactly opposite of the bucket and shim and only on two did i get different readings. note: my feelers only read down to .02 thats why 2 of the reading say -.02

OK, you are making it painfully obvious that you don't care what we are telling you. Go ahead, do it whatever way you want, it's your bike. When it blows up due to mis-adjusted valves, I would like to have first dibs on the left-over parts, as my wife also has an '82 850L.

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[hannibal]

That is exactly why it should be done the Suzuki factory way. The other way will give you different (false) readings.

Exactly. You can measure a thousand different ways, but how you would know the number you're aiming for unless you follow the factory method? The specs are given as measured under those conditions.

[seanarthurmachado]

I think I would trust the judgement of Steve and the others on the forum above some guy at a dealership who randomly answered the phone.

(I've seen him work.... Very precise and exact on everything he does.)

[chanceafrica]

steve, i dont think you should take any of this personally. im not suggesting people here dont know what they are talking about, thats why im here asking. i want to do it the right way but i am getting conflicting answers. the difference is, i know and respect the mechanics that told me one way to do the work,one IS an old timer suzuki dealer.i also understand that these guys dont necessarily know specific tips and tricks of the gs which is why im here . i dont know any of you guys here, and yes,its hard to trust strangers opinions(which is reasonable,no?) i dont know any of you or how long you've been doing anything, how would i know?! but i came here to hopefully find the gs specific gurus who want to share some of their insight. which i have gotten and which i do appreciate greatly. im just confused with the conflicting opinions, and im trying to figure out the best way to go about it because i absolutely want to do it the right way. so ive asked some questions and got some answers, and i dont think there should be any reason to be defensive or offended. i dont understand how a manual that printed thousands upon thousands of copies described a way to work on your motor which in fact would blow up your motor. im just trying to be cautious, by taking in every opinion on this subject because i want to do it correctly. and thank you all for your input thus far.

[Steve]

i dont understand how a manual that printed thousands upon thousands of copies described a way to work on your motor which in fact would blow up your motor.

The Suzuki factory manual is rather explicit with its instructions. They might be a bit confusing until you realize what's going on, then realize that you have been over-thinking the situation. It is also the only manual of the three major manuals (the others are Clymer and Haynes) that specifically tells you to align the cam lobes and measure BOTH valves on that side.

Step back a bit and look at your posts the way we just saw them: "
I measured them this way and got one number, checked them another way and got another number."
"Are you sure that is the way?"
"I checked with my buddies, they say do it this way."
Etc., etc., etc.

You came, asking questions, then questioned the answers (multiple times).
Yeah, I'm going to give up when I get resistance like that.
And I am one of the patient ones.

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[JJ]

I have adjusted valve clearances on Suzuki GS bikes dozens and dozens of times. The way the factory service manual shows, and Steve describes, is correct. Period... Stop questioning what the people here tell you, and do it the RIGHT way.

[cowboyup3371]

You also say you came here looking for answers but then don't trust strangers. An motorcycle-based Internet forum is nothing but a group of strangers who have worked on their bikes, come to get help for their bikes, and created a community for doing so. If you aren't going to trust what we say, why ask the questions?

Every single person here who has given you the advice you asked for has been correct. Please follow what the Suzuki manual states and that has been explained to you a little more simply. The tutorial you were given on valve adjustments is the same for all of the shim style bikes and follows that Suzuki procedure.

[60ratrod]

i dont understand how a manual that printed thousands upon thousands of copies described a way to work on your motor which in fact would blow up your motor.

it's just nutella when if first came out, how it was supposed to be the healthier alternative to peanut butter, but in fact it was found to be WAY worse than peanut butter. the only reason that Haynes and Clymer sold and is still selling thousands of copies of their manuals is that all motorcycle manufacturers do not put out their service manual written by the designers and engineers. the only reason you might be able to find any factory manual on the net is if someone managed to come by one at a closed dealership, a technician took one, or they got one at a closing sale/estate sale, ect. and made scans and posted them on the net for everyone. I believe we are amongst one of the few sites that has such an indepth library of make and model specific manuals available online for free, due in very large part of bassclif.

so the recommendations, tips, tricks, and advice have all been layed out here to you. it's up to you to do with it as you please. just remember, you may catch some flack from those who have given the advice and you chose to ignore it because somebody that knew somebody that did this thing once and told you about it is up to you.

I know I felt bad after receiving advice from here and ignoring it and ended up having to do more work cause I ignored it cause I just wanted to go 2 up. now i'm having to sort through those issues, instead of enjoying my 650g.

[chanceafrica]

i did the valve adjustment according to the factory manual. then a carb sync. didnt get the carb sync 100% but damn close. i did notice when i blipped the throttle the levels werent all the same as when they are at idle on the manometer. i took her on a couple short runs and seemed great. my motor knocking was less and sounded and rode well,better than before i think. i took her on a 2-3 hour ride out and a 2 hour ride back. she started giving me similar issues like before. sounded a little off ("throaty") and didnt idle well. i havent checked the header/cylinder temps yet to see if my left side cylinder is still running cooler. so after i check that, i'll install new plugs and give a compression test. after all that than what?

[chanceafrica]

i pulled my plugs and they were white. if my valves were off i would have some white plugs and some not, or at least a varying range of color even if all where lean. these are all the same color. white. i tested for airleaks with a can of carb cleaner while the bike was at idle at all gaskets and carb boots. what else would cause this? if my airbox came un seated? if my cleaner element deteriorated? my buddy suggests upjetting. that seems to just overcompensate for another issue. i have no reason to believe the jets were ever changed from stock. he says these and all bikes were highly restrictive from emissions and most are lean from the factory. sure they could be lean,....but not THIS lean? any insight?

[JJ]

Check the things you are asking questions about. You have the bike right there where you can see, touch, measure... If your plugs are white, then you are definitely lean. Find out why. Pull the camshaft cover and measure the valve clearances. Pull the carbs and see what jet sizes you have. Pull the carb boots off and look at the o-ring between the manifold and head. Is it cracked? Flattened? It's cheap enough to replace them, just to be sure. Look at your airbox seals. Take the element out. If it's in decent shape, clean and re-oil it.

Listen to the advice that people here have given you. Stop analyzing and start ACTING.