Quick question: 1978 GS1000 Carbs

[trippivot]

ask before you drill.

the drain tube is tricky - good tip there! no really,, there is good info on this thread - at the beginning post#1 ,#2,#3 had me a little nervous about this self repair.. mechanical slide - drill!!??! jet kit!?! Nooooo ..stooopp! lol - ok I'm in a good mood. the drill bits ? some are in the kit to remove the EPA mixture cap - some are for the CV vacuum slide . not really clear unless you have done a half dozen or more...

non removable float needle seats - with new float needles installed -- will still drip sometimes - probably the toughest leak to cure - my solution is to polish inside the seats - make them mirror shine way down inside there with simichrome or flitz on a q-tip cut in half and put it in a cordless drill. The porosity of dull brass is really a rough surface so smoothing it out to a mirror surface will help it will seal better. hope that is a tip that helps.

this guy needed to post before he went to work on his bike... ever seen something like this? epic failure!!

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[mattfeet]

Overflow tube was cracked. Grabbed a spare bowl from another set of carbs and no more drips.

[hannibal]

Where was it cracked, at the base?

[mattfeet]

Yessir. Tube was sitting at a 5-10? angle and was slightly cracked. Took it off and put gas in the bowl and she immediately started dripping.

[mattfeet]

Next question:

- Last night I took her on her maiden legit voyage (whopping 20 miles) in stop-and-go interstate traffic and through 35-45mph side roads. The bike never really pulled hard. I came home and measured my header temps (instant read laser) and cylinder 2 was ~102* whereas all the others were between 240-260*. The idle was set dead nuts even across all cylinders and mixture screws are all set to 7/8 turn out from lightly seated.

(Pic is upside down, but I wanted to show cylinders in same order of 1,2,3,4)


I pulled the plugs this morning and #2 (shown in order of 1,2,3,4) was black and wet. All others were coffee-with-cream tan.



I just changed the plugs to NGK 8BES and let it idle for awhile and giving it gas. After the change, headers temps were as follows:

CYL 1: ~180*
CYL 2: ~185*
CYL 3: ~230*
CYL 4: ~230*

Im going to go out on a quick ride to see how she feels. Thoughts?

[chuck hahn]

So now its time to do fuel adjustments. Use the side mixture screws to lean the cylinders out. On my bikes I have found that between 1 1/4 out and 1 1/2 is where the plugs seem to like things.

Since you have VMs and the Colortne works super with VMs, I would volunteer use of one of my Colortunes should you want to go that way..or if noone you know has one for you to borrow.

What i do turn the screws in till i start getting the lean whitish blue color and then out till i get the orange yellow rich color..noting how far each screw is turned. Then i go in half of what it took to get from lean to rich. Then ride and see how it performs as far as power, throttle response, any lean or rich exhaust popping...that sort of stuff.

[mattfeet]

Well, took her our for a ride with the new plugs and it was a night and day difference. Came home and header temps were as follows:

CYL 1: ~235*
CYL 2: ~205*
CYL 3: ~230*
CYL 4: ~242*

CYL 2 is still running a bit low but the bike pulls like a freight train now. Still have some minor adjustments to make but overall Im pleased.

[Sandy]

Looks like you've got it pretty much sorted. A little tweak on #2 like maybe 1/8 turn in to get rid of the that bit of richness should bring that temp up a bit. Thanks for the quick tutorial on the Color Tune Chuck. I've got one but never could really get to work good for me but I was only turning the screws a little bit each time so I put it back in the cupboard. I tuned it by ear and plug checks and it is running great but a little finer tweaking is always good.

[chuck hahn]

I do small ( like 1/8 turn ) adjustments too once I find that center spot between the yellowish orange rich color and the whitish blue lean color. The cylinder has to have a few seconds as your tweeking to equalize out too.

[busa1300]

Where are Dyno jet stage III kits available at for a 78-79 GS1000?
I looked on the Dynojet site and nothing shows up?.....only for CV style it seems
Would I need kit #3304 ?

I think I got it figured out....#3304 is being discontinued on Dynojet website, but still available as old stock many places...