Back to the airbox

[Rafael]

Hi guys,
I've just joined the site but been reading it for ages.
I bought some pods for my GS1000G (82?). Cleaned the carbies superficially and try to adjust the air screws. I went from totally closed to 5 turns opened and never got satisfied. A guy appeared at the petrol station outta nowhere just to tell me that it may be starving for air, he made sense, he was an omen. I sort of gave up with the airbox since the rubber membranes of the sides have disintegrated. But now I am accommodating the idea of getting my creativity to fly free in search of a replacement (cut out rubber gloves?). Carb#3 was leaking; I found a full 10mm ant on top of the floater which made the disassemble of the carbies worthwhile. No leaks anymore, so far. Buying new air filter to fit in the box, and siliconing the carby attachment which were loose in the hope that ants wont get into the carburetors anymore.
I hope this fixes the carbies lack of performance.
Cheers.

[cowboyup3371]

Go back and clean the carbs properly per the tutorials on Basscliff's site - http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff - while you wait on the air box

[Guest]

Cleaned the carbies superficially and try to adjust the air screws.

If you have been reading for ages, you should have seen by now that you do NOT have "air screws" on your carbies.

What you have there actually control a mixture, not just air. Suzuki calls them "pilot" screws. After a carb rebuild, set them to about three turns out. Start the bike, warm it up until you don't need the choke any more. Use your gauges to do a vacuum carb sync, then slowly turn each pilot screw in, listening for a change in engine speed. You might hear it speed up slightly, then drop off. When you hear it drop off, back up about 1/4 turn, go to the next carb. When you are done, go back and verify that there is a change of speed when you turn the screw in 1/4 turn, then turn it back out. You should be set at that point.

Note that that is going to handle the idle and low-throttle positions only. If you stick with your pods, you will need to change the main jets and the needle. You might have adjustable needles, we don't.

[Rafael]

Thanks guys, I appreciate your responses and your time.
After talking to a motorbike guru here in Ballina, NSW, I was convinced to go back to the air box. I am about to adjust the mixture screw and I read somewhere to start with #3...I can't find that info again.
I was to quick to say the bike stop leaking...it leaked even more and it was always due to a petcock cheap rebuild kit. I fixed that.
Another thing I do not understand about my bike is...why is it humanely impossible to rest it on the center stand? Had someone changed the rear suspension to a smaller one?
Also the airbox states the right model GS1000g but the manifolds belong to a GL, they're too long and they sit inside the airbox about 90% of the size.
So I am gonna try to tune up the carbbies but if you have any comment please let me know.
Rafael

[loud et]

I think that #3 thing you mentioned may have been the bench sync. I know you start with that one for a bench sync.
Honestly it sounds like you need to start with removing the whole carb and airbox system. Remove the intake manifold boots and inspect them. They could be, and often are separated from the mounting flange and need replaced. Whether they are good or not, now is the time to replace the intake o rings that sit behind the intake boots.
Then.....dun dunnnnn....the full carb teardown , dip and rebuild. Full o ring kit from cycleorings.com
Then a bench sync.
Then you have a solid baseline. As many will say you can turn those mixture screws all day but if the carbs are goofed up or the air system is leaking or wrong the bike will always run like crap.
You will need a full and proper airbox will the correct airbox boots or pods and a stage 2 jet kit if you are only running pods or a stage 3 kit if you are running pods and a aftermarket exhaust or God forbid a hacked off straight pipe scenario.
If your bike is always temperamental and always running chappy you will never get any real enjoyment out of riding. And have no confidence in your bike.

[Rob S.]

If your bike is always temperamental and always running chappy you will never get any real enjoyment out of riding. And have no confidence in your bike.

"Words of wisdom," as Nicholson said in The Shining, "words of wisdom!"

...why is it humanely impossible to rest it on the center stand? Had someone changed the rear suspension to a smaller one?

Could be. I had an extended-fork bike that needed a brick on each side to get it up on the center stand, but sounds like you've got the opposite problem.

Be gentle with her or we'll call the Humane Society.

[Rafael]

OMG, my beast was going fine until I thought of the great idea of fitting airpods, and now...(thriller music) it may be gone forever.
My bike has been denied of TLC for a good 4 years but kept going like a champ, 0 maintenance. Now it is like renovations in an old house, if you keep scratching, the whole thing falls apart.
Loud et you gotta be a scientist, the things you mention are the ideal yes, but in a far away world, ahahah. I am an engie, or make-the-thing-work-with-minimum-effort,-resources-and-on-time. I wish I had a shed so big when I stopped the angle grinder it will still keep on echoing for a minute, a nice solid timber bench, a wall full of tools, a good damn compressor, a concrete slab, a chain winch, a welder, a drill press, but no! I am working two square meters in between a car and a ****ty fold-able table full of stuff with the petrol tank holding from the rafter of the carport.
I tried the pilot screws...
(Observations) The two exhaust pipes of the sides got hot way before the two middle ones. I tried three full turns out to one and various combinations in between without much change. When I open gas the bike dies gently if sustained and here is something curious: when opening choke, the bike takes the throttle variations with joyful fury. After that I almost went deaf and intoxicated and came to relate it and leave it for tomorrow.
I will keep on thanking any of your comments I appreciate them greatly and are teaching me priceless knowledge.
Rafael

[Guest]

It sounds like you need to go back to the drawing board and start over with a proper valve adjustment, carburetor rebuild (24 hr. soak in carburetor dip and O-ring replacement) and assess your critical parts like carburetor intake boots, diaphragms, and jetting required for pods. There is no reason a GS1000G won't run perfectly well with quality pods if it is done right. The Dynojet jet kits are generally preferred when re-jetting for pods.

[Rob S.]

...There is no reason a GS1000G won't run perfectly well with quality pods if it is done right. The Dynojet jet kits are generally preferred when re-jetting for pods.

What he said. OF course, I paid a pro to rejet her on a dyno...

[RNR]

OldVet66:

Forgive me if I'm in the wrong space, but questions about my 1979 GS750L that is headed for cafe racer status ...
? The old link to the VM carb tuning PDF doesn't work anymore. Know where I can find it?
? Where can I find NOS manifold boots? bikebandit has not link, nor can i find them at denniskirk.

[Guest]

The boots can be found here: (https://www.z1enterprises.com/product/13110-49000x4) and the VM carburetor rebuild guide here (http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/) scroll down on the right side to Other Contributors and the third one down is the VM rebuild guide.