Reduce Pod Air Flow vs Rejetting

[Nessism]

Drill less holes and it will add restriction.

[posplayr]

Drill less holes and it will add restriction.

I think the guy had already drunk too many beers before ever starting.


However, I can appreciate a well designed "brain fart" as well as the next person.

[Steve]

My point is when you have pods it's really easy to change jets.

And our point is that when you have the stock airbox, you don't need to change jets.

It's all personal preference, we just try to warn those who are going for a "look" that it's not all "plug and play", there WILL be some effort put into the project.

.

[RichDesmond]

Drill less holes and it will add restriction.

That's true, but it still won't let him achieve the goal in the OP, which was to use pods with no re-jetting.

[Nessism]

I think the guy had already drunk too many beers before ever starting.


However, I can appreciate a well designed "brain fart" as well as the next person.

Brain farts cause mistakes. I don't think the sleeve inside the pod is a mistake though. More ingenious I'd say.

BTW, I had an XS400 Yamaha when back in college that needed these expensive air filters that fit behind the side covers (which I couldn't afford). Bought some cheap UNI pods but just couldn't get the bike to run right. Wound up clamping the pods onto the old air box runner tubes smoothing out the airflow entering the carbs and after that everything was fine. The point being there are things that can be done with a little imagination.

[Darin Jordan]

My GS850G with 4-1 Header and Stinger insert, running K&N Pods, has the Dynojet Stage 3 kit installed. However, their recommended 160 Mains were WAY too rich... WAY. The bike wouldn't bust 70 climbing over Snolqualmie Pass (3500ft).

I've been running it with their 155s for about 13,000 Miles and it's generally fine, but still was "fat" during the hotter summer days.

I just did some "minor" carb work (replaced the needle/seats, bowl gaskets, readjusted floats) and decided to take the opportunity to re-jet. Bought the Dynojet 150s, and opened them up (VERY carefully) with a 1.65mm Jet Drill, which turns it into roughly a 152.5 or so.

Road it last night for the first time and it feels crisper and seems to be just about right.

As many will say here, Pods can be a pain in the butt, especially for those who aren't "mechanical". However, if you can wrap your mind around the jetting procedures and what adjustments affect which part of the cycle, it's not really brain surgery. On mine, the only adjustments I've really had to make after installing the Stage 3 kit per instructions, and once the carbs were setup and balanced and the float levels set correctly, was to swap the main jets, which can be done with the carbs on the bike.

Once it's setup, it's excellent running, and looks pretty cool as well.

20180514_192356.jpg

[TxGSrider]

My GS850G with 4-1 Header and Stinger insert, running K&N Pods, has the Dynojet Stage 3 kit installed. However, their recommended 160 Mains were WAY too rich... WAY. The bike wouldn't bust 70 climbing over Snolqualmie Pass (3500ft).

I've been running it with their 155s for about 13,000 Miles and it's generally fine, but still was "fat" during the hotter summer days.

I just did some "minor" carb work (replaced the needle/seats, bowl gaskets, readjusted floats) and decided to take the opportunity to re-jet. Bought the Dynojet 150s, and opened them up (VERY carefully) with a 1.65mm Jet Drill, which turns it into roughly a 152.5 or so.

Road it last night for the first time and it feels crisper and seems to be just about right.

As many will say here, Pods can be a pain in the butt, especially for those who aren't "mechanical". However, if you can wrap your mind around the jetting procedures and what adjustments affect which part of the cycle, it's not really brain surgery. On mine, the only adjustments I've really had to make after installing the Stage 3 kit per instructions, and once the carbs were setup and balanced and the float levels set correctly, was to swap the main jets, which can be done with the carbs on the bike.

Once it's setup, it's excellent running, and looks pretty cool as well.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]54947[/ATTACH]

Every Dynojet kit Ive owned was too rich. Ive got them in my ATVs and have used them on bikes and they are always that way. I suspect its for safety. A slightly rich engine runs cooler and is less likely to cause damage. On my ATVs I ended up lowering the needles 1-2 positions and using smaller mains. I have bungs welded into the exhaust on two of them to confirm my findings with a wideband. They are still slightly rich.

[Agemax]

My GS850G with 4-1 Header and Stinger insert, running K&N Pods, has the Dynojet Stage 3 kit installed. However, their recommended 160 Mains were WAY too rich... WAY. The bike wouldn't bust 70 climbing over Snolqualmie Pass (3500ft).

I've been running it with their 155s for about 13,000 Miles and it's generally fine, but still was "fat" during the hotter summer days.

I just did some "minor" carb work (replaced the needle/seats, bowl gaskets, readjusted floats) and decided to take the opportunity to re-jet. Bought the Dynojet 150s, and opened them up (VERY carefully) with a 1.65mm Jet Drill, which turns it into roughly a 152.5 or so.

Road it last night for the first time and it feels crisper and seems to be just about right.

As many will say here, Pods can be a pain in the butt, especially for those who aren't "mechanical". However, if you can wrap your mind around the jetting procedures and what adjustments affect which part of the cycle, it's not really brain surgery. On mine, the only adjustments I've really had to make after installing the Stage 3 kit per instructions, and once the carbs were setup and balanced and the float levels set correctly, was to swap the main jets, which can be done with the carbs on the bike.

Once it's setup, it's excellent running, and looks pretty cool as well.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]54947[/ATTACH]

Dynojet jets are measured by size, so a 150 DJ jet is 1.50mm, therefore you have just drilled your jets out to 1.65mm, or a 165 main jet!

[Darin Jordan]

Dynojet jets are measured by size, so a 150 DJ jet is 1.50mm, therefore you have just drilled your jets out to 1.65mm, or a 165 main jet!

Sorry, but that's not correct... 1.65mm = 0.0649"

A DJ150 = 0.064" = 1.6256mm (1.6mm)
A DJ155 ~= 0.0665" = 1.6891mm (1.7mm)

A DJ165 ~= 0.0715" = 1.8161mm (1.8mm)

So, a 1.65mm = 0.6496 = 0.065" = 1.651mm, so between the DJ150 and the DJ155, hence, ~ 152.5.

I own jet drills from 1.6mm through 1.8mm, and verified the sizes prior to drilling. All coincide with the cross-reference charts.

DynoJet_Sizes.JPG

[Agemax]

Dj jets are measured according to size of hole, in MM. Mikuni jets are measured by flow rate, cc/minute

[Darin Jordan]

Dj jets are measured according to size of hole, in MM. Mikuni jets are measured by flow rate, cc/minute

I just posted all the information above. According to the Cross Reference charts, and to actual measurements, a DJ150 is NOT 1.5mm... It's 1.6mm, just like the cross-reference chart indicates. And, the DJ155 is NOT 1.55mm, it's 1.7mm, which is what I physically measured mine to be.

Not trying to be an ass, but this is what the numbers and the charts show.

[Darin Jordan]

Dj jets are measured according to size of hole, in MM. Mikuni jets are measured by flow rate, cc/minute

I contacted Dynojet and they confirmed that a DJ155 IS 1.55mm, as you suggested, so it's not that I don't believe you. It's just that the actual jets didn't measure to these numbers.

Either way, the Jets I have now are working, so that's what really matters to me. What they are suppose to measure, and what they physically measure, seems to be at odds with the sets I have.

[Agemax]

if you look closely at a DJ main jet they are slightly tapered, or "venturi machined" as DJ like to call them.
This can understandably lead to inaccurate measurements

[Darin Jordan]

if you look closely at a DJ main jet they are slightly tapered, or "venturi machined" as DJ like to call them.
This can understandably lead to inaccurate measurements

Sounds reasonable. Well, what I have now is physically sized between a 150 and a 155, and the bike is running cleanly, so I'm going to go with that for now.

[Burque73]

Not to get this thread sidetracked but this may be pertinent here.

I saw a buddy's 78 KZ 1000 on Sunday and the carb boots to the head were badly cracked. He said they were recently replaced too, which was weird.

Do the carbs bouncing around, without the airbox to support the back side, tend to stress the boots, shortening their life? Maybe you guys that run pods already thought of that and support them somehow.