Exhaust Preservation - GS650L

[DaveP]

Over the winter I have torn down and rebuilt the engine of my 1981 GS650L due to needing to replace the broken rear cam chain guide. The engine is ready to go back in the frame now, but I am wondering if there is anything that I can/should do to the exhaust system first.

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I am not looking to do a full ceramic coating restoration or anything major, but would like to stop the rust and keep the existing exhaust intact.

Any suggestions for options to clean and protect the exhaust as is?

Thanks,
Dave

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Not sure how far it will get you on those pipes. They're pretty far gone, but you can try rubbing with aluminumm foil and Diet Coke (diet because it's not sticky) there are YouTube videos on this.

[Gorminrider]

clean up and Paint the rusty bits...... but the headers don't look too bad so try to avoid painting them as anything you can do with a brush or spraycan will flake off them first. Maybe fudge a few rust spots with silver header paint if it doesn't look too bad...I wouldn't use steel wool..I think that if you cut enough bread, the knife WILL dull so attacking the thin chrome with any metal edge is not a good idea.

The crossover pipe-they're really hard to maintain...paint gets beat off them (or just isn't sticking for me!)-REALLY quick...often gets rusted thin as it's a bit of a condensation trap so if it is, this is a good time to cut it out and replace it..pipe can be found to sleeve on and screw even if you have no welder. OR, some people just get rid of it altogether, I think.

As to prep,priming,paint, well, you can follow the directions of what you choose...I use both brush-on barbecue paint- (there's even a "satin" finish that I am using now that is Cheap and lasts pretty well)...In spraycans...I think the Plastikote is better than VHT. Those mufflers do want paint so they can go to their end gracefully...and paint stays on mufflers pretty well.

Oh, and apparently "rust converter" as a shortcut is not suitable for exhaust pipes...might do for mufflers though. I haven't seen any ill effects where I've used it...

[DaveP]

Thanks. I have used VHT caliper paint on the engine components which is good for 900 degrees.

The part that got me thinking was the VHT Rust Converter. Even though it is VHT brand, it has no indication of what temperature it can withstand. Maybe it doesn't matter if it is actually eliminating the rust...

[LAB3]

You might be surprised just how well the old school Turtle Wax chrome cleaner works and it's only $3 a bottle at Wallyworld. I thought mine where going to need to be painted until I tried it.

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[Gorminrider]

Thanks. I have used VHT caliper paint on the engine components which is good for 900 degrees.

The part that got me thinking was the VHT Rust Converter. Even though it is VHT brand, it has no indication of what temperature it can withstand. Maybe it doesn't matter if it is actually eliminating the rust...

I wouldn't know about about VHT's iteration of Rust conversion-I saw the warning in passing for "Rust Check" I think....and it's a water-based brown liquid .

you'd think with initials that seem to scream VeryHighTemperature, the VHT would work. On the other hand, it's all about the directions on your paintdo they mention it in the paint's directions for instance....

EXAMPLE: it's important to note that a laquer will lift an oil-base paint.
PS: yes I've tried the VHT caliper paint. I didn't find it any better for exhaust applications than anything else but I just slapped it on as well as I was able without taking the headers off..