Stuck Jets

Sorry, forgot to specify... pilot jets. I don't think that anyone has been "messing with them" per say. The carbs were removed from the bike for rebuild a few years ago, but the rebuild never materialized. They were never even fully disassembled. I was able to get two pilot jets out when I originally tackled the project last weekend, but two others remain stuck. They've been soaking in PB Blaster whenever I'm not working on them.

Zed, thanks for the input! There's so many different opinions out there, it's hard to know which to go with. I have tried the heat gun to no avail, so I will try hot water next. Fingers crossed...

[zed1015]

I have a question about heating the carbs... how much heat are we talking? Is 10 sec with a propane torch enough, or is it more like 30? I've got a set of carbs that have been laminated by ethanol, and every time I think I've broken the jet loose, it turns out I've just stripped off more brass. I've had them soaking in PB blaster for a few days now, but I'm worried that if I don't get them out on the next attempt that I'll damage the threading in the carb bodies.

You should avoid direct flame at all costs or you could end up with just a lump of molten alloy.
Either use a hot air gun or heat them in a pan of hot water and let them simmer.
Make sure the body is held clear of the pan base by either a basket or wire etc.
A few heat cycles and the application of WD or similar on the stuck item while they are hot and left to cool will help.
If you have an outside stove you can use thin oil in the pan, just be sure not to over heat.

[tom203]

Which stuck stuff are you having trouble with....pilot jets...mixture screws?
Does it appear that someone has been messing with them before you??

I have a question about heating the carbs... how much heat are we talking? Is 10 sec with a propane torch enough, or is it more like 30? I've got a set of carbs that have been laminated by ethanol, and every time I think I've broken the jet loose, it turns out I've just stripped off more brass. I've had them soaking in PB blaster for a few days now, but I'm worried that if I don't get them out on the next attempt that I'll damage the threading in the carb bodies.

It could be the fuel has gone off. It's been sitting in the tank for a couple of months. What fuel should I put into it? 88? 89? The guide mentions between 85-95 octane. I believe I put 89 into it last time, the usual unleaded.

[tom203]

Best to follow Nessism's tutorial and do the job properly or the smell of gas will be the least of your problems.

As Steve mentioned there's some little parts in there, so beware

image.jpg

I already put it together and put it back on. My fiancee doesn't like the smell of gasoline inside, and I can't keep them outside without worry of them being lost or stolen. I'll have to take it off again to switch the pilot jets.

What would I do to adjust the air flow? I get the feeling there isn't enough air. When I put the carbs back on the first time, they weren't seated properly in the boots. There was a gap, and air got in. This caused the engine to rev high. After I seated them properly, it wouldn't start, not even if I sprayed gasoline into the carburetor through the airbox (even though that worked before).

[Steve]

The first thing you need to do is to realize that you will NOT see what is in the picture.

You will find a screw that is about 3/4" long and goes to a very sharp point. After you remove the screw, you might need to use a drywall screw to reach in and pull out a spring. When the spring is out, reach in again with the drywall screw to remove a very small metal washer and an o-ring. The goal is to replace the o-ring with a new one, but this should really be part of a FULL rebuild of the carb. Good thing you already have the carbs apart. You can now dip them properly and get the o-ring kit from cycleorings.com. This would also be a good time to recommend replacing the o-rings in the intake boots. Get them from cycleorings, too.

Are you following Nessism's carb rebuild tutorial?

.

And what do I do with it once extracted?

This could be good or bad news....maybe they were removed previously and properly -good:
or they have been attacked and mangled - bad.
Just like those pilot jets, you need to approach them carefully with a screwdriver that perfectly fits into the cave and spans the mixture screw head fully. Here's one of my mine..

[ATTACH=CONFIG]59091[/ATTACH]

[tom203]

I have not. Someone before me removed the caps that were over them, though.

This could be good or bad news....maybe they were removed previously and properly -good:
or they have been attacked and mangled - bad.
Just like those pilot jets, you need to approach them carefully with a screwdriver that perfectly fits into the cave and spans the mixture screw head fully. Here's one of my mine..

image.jpg

I have not. Someone before me removed the caps that were over them, though.

[tom203]

Progress is good.....
i almost hate to ask this but.....no mention of mixture screws in your fun with pilot jets....have you removed these?

Alright, I've ordered some jets from that link.

[Steve]

What Steve is politely trying to say is, you don't have the correct jets.

Get the correct jets at the link above. What you have won't work.

Polite? Me?? Nope.

I was just adding a "why" to Nessism's statement.

Those look like the wrong jets. These look like a match...https://www.denniskirk.com/mikuni/oe...prd/176040.sku

That's probably the link you were referring to.

.

[Baatfam]

Bottom line: you need the bleed holes on the sides of the jets. .

What Steve is politely trying to say is, you don't have the correct jets.

Get the correct jets at the link above. What you have won't work.